Procyon650

Texback is correct the fifth hole is under the first keeper in the pictures. The tongue ended up that long because between the two keepers there are two rivets and my makers stamp. Not sure I would build it that way again. I think that next time I would place the stamp after the second keeper. There are two keepers because personally I really dislike the loose end of a belt flapping around. Without pant belt loops I thought that the loose end would be a problem. Maybe it is not, I have never worn a gun belt for any length of time. Thanks for the kind words.

A couple of pictures of my first attempt at a holster and gunbelt. (It is my second gunbelt since I cut the first one too short and used that for something else. Measure twice and cut once, they said.) Holster is for a Norinco Model 213 in 9mm. The Norinco is a copy of the Tokarov (sp?) T-33. This is also my first large commissioned piece. Material used is 7oz W+C with 3oz pigskin veg-tan lining. All brass hardware, handstitched billets Thanks for looking and for any comments left.

I didn't realize that a gun belt is supposed to be curved. Why is that? Is it more comfortable than a straight piece of leather?

I hope she posts this real soon. I am planning to sew up my first ranger style belt this morning. Take about your timely posts. Now I am beginning to wonder if I should wait and see if there is anything I might be doing wrong. I have already cut the blank too short the first time. ( Now I get a new belt as the test piece and I will take another run at the client's belt later)

I built my wife a briefcase using 5 oz chrome tanned and she finds that it is a bit shapeless. It works fine if there is anything in it like a binder or a notebook. You might want to try using a stiffener of some sort internally to help with the shaping.

Tandy leather carries a couple of different cloths that they sell as lining. I haven't tried any of theirs but I have used printed canvas in some of my projects.

I agree, Wiz thanks for all the information. I would have no idea what I was doing with my Techsew 2700 without this forum and your posts.

I have built a flat bed sewing table for my Techsew 2700 cylinder arm machine. It sure makes it a lot easier to hold the project, the loose threads and keep everything aligned. Easy to unclamp and remove. A bit of scrap birch plywood and some varnish and it came out quite well.

I have the speed reducer on my 2700, factory installed at Techsew. I find it really helps with the thicker veg-tan projects. The only trouble that I have is that sometimes I wish it was would sew faster. But what do I expect with a speed reducer.

Looks good. What kind of leather did you use on that item?

There were no brokerage fees since it was sent via USPS. If I remember correctly there was just GST. Shipping was quite high though at I believe 60.00 for the hides.

The "sign guy" is probably selling a product called "Sintra" It is a PVC plastic that can be cut with saws or just a sharp knife, I know that material since I ran a sign shop for 7 years. It is a little stiffer than what I want but I can see where it would be useful in leatherwork. What is "bontex"?

I have purchased a piece of Tandy's bag stiffener material. It seems to be just the sort of thing I was looking for to use in a portfolio. However it was shipped to me rolled up and seems to have retained the curve. I thought that when I removed the wrapping it would unroll given time but it has not. Any thoughts on a method to make this stuff flat again? I thought about rolling it the other way but this usually softens the materials that I have tried. I do not want to make this stuff more flexible. Any suggestions?

I have the Techsew 2700 with a speed reducer and I am very pleased with it. It will sew two layers of 8 oz veg-tan easy and two layers layers of 2 oz garment calfskin. Support from the people at Techsew has been great. I am still learning but it was a great purchase.