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Procyon650

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Posts posted by Procyon650

  1. Texback is correct the fifth hole is under the first keeper in the pictures.

    The tongue ended up that long because between the two keepers there are two rivets and my makers stamp. Not sure I would build it that way again. I think that next time I would place the stamp after the second keeper.

    There are two keepers because personally I really dislike the loose end of a belt flapping around. Without pant belt loops I thought that the loose end would be a problem. Maybe it is not, I have never worn a gun belt for any length of time.

    Thanks for the kind words.

  2. A couple of pictures of my first attempt at a holster and gunbelt. (It is my second gunbelt since I cut the first one too short and used that for something else. Measure twice and cut once, they said.)

    Holster is for a Norinco Model 213 in 9mm. The Norinco is a copy of the Tokarov (sp?) T-33. This is also my first large commissioned piece.

    Material used is 7oz W+C with 3oz pigskin veg-tan lining. All brass hardware, handstitched billets

    Thanks for looking and for any comments left.

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  3. I hope she posts this real soon. I am planning to sew up my first ranger style belt this morning. Take about your timely posts.

    Now I am beginning to wonder if I should wait and see if there is anything I might be doing wrong. I have already cut the blank too short the first time. ( Now I get a new belt as the test piece and I will take another run at the client's belt later)

  4. The "sign guy" is probably selling a product called "Sintra" It is a PVC plastic that can be cut with saws or just a sharp knife, I know that material since I ran a sign shop for 7 years.

    It is a little stiffer than what I want but I can see where it would be useful in leatherwork.

    I am not sure what Tandy sells. Is it bontex or a similar type? If so the best thing to do is to unroll and lay flat on the floor so the roll has the ends on the floor and ha a hump in the middle. Weight it down with books or whatever. You are right not to try and roll it the other way. Sometimes a dry iron will help if you put the weight on it quickly. Most important is to make sure the grain is laid out correctly when you go to cut it. As hard as it is, the most important part is to store it flat. Yeah, I don't have any place for that either.

    What is "bontex"?

  5. I have purchased a piece of Tandy's bag stiffener material. It seems to be just the sort of thing I was looking for to use in a portfolio.

    However it was shipped to me rolled up and seems to have retained the curve. I thought that when I removed the wrapping it would unroll given time but it has not. Any thoughts on a method to make this stuff flat again? I thought about rolling it the other way but this usually softens the materials that I have tried. I do not want to make this stuff more flexible.

    Any suggestions?

  6. I am planning to build a leather carry on bag similar to the one in the attached pictures. The case construction is not too difficult but I need to have a hinge that will swing through 180 degrees. I was thinking of using a piano hinge but they are usually narrow and work best on a quite rigid box, and how would the metal hinge be attached to the case?, Would a leather strip sewn on as a hinge be adequate? Maybe a very heavy piece of cloth webbing sewn as a hinge and then covered in leather.

    Is there another method I am unaware of? The commercial made bags I have looked at use custom hardware I cannot source.

    Any suggestions?

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  7. Funny enough those are the actual ones I ordered. Here are my thoughts on the leather I received. Keep in mind I have not bought bison leather before.

    Antique whiskey: Looks exactly like the website pictures, leather is flexible and the surface is smooth, not glossy and free of defects The piece is a relatively regular shape . On inspection I did not find any soft spots or holes. Leather measures out at 1.2 - 1.5 mm ( 3- 3.5 oz), a bit thinner than listed on their website. Will be using for some upholstery projects.

    Sante Fe: .Firm temper and not as flexible. Surface is smooth and a bit glazed. Again free from defects and regularly shaped. A few wrinkles around the neck area.. Leather is 2.5 - 3.0 mm thick (6-7.5 oz) a bit thicker than listed on their website. This will make some nice cases or briefcases

    My thickness measurements are only done on the outer edges. I have not used this material yet some I am unsure how it will work.

    Overall I am very happy with my purchase

  8. Just thought that I would mention a really good source for bison/buffalo at a good price.

    I received 2 sides from The Buffalo Leather store and I am really impressed with the quality of the leather and the price.

    The material worked out to $7/ft which I thought was great. The quality is good, the shape is regular and there is no damage or any problems that I have seen. I have not built any cases with it yet but that will happen soon.

    I dealt with Dane Cotten and he was really helpful.

    Shipping was prompt and packaging was good.

    Blake

    Procyon Leather

    Peers Ab Canada.

  9. I'll second the recommendation for that video. It really helped me and I thought my awls were sharp to begin with.

    I wasn't too impressed with that linen thread from Springfield, I use a prewaxed nylon thread from Tandy.

    I don't use a cork on the awl as a stop, I let my thumb work as a variable stop. I will occasionally use a cork in my left hand, so I don't stab myself.

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