mkspence

Anyone have suggestions on how to use a resist to get the lines in the “thin blue line flag” to look distressed? Was going to at least carve and bevel the stripes and then put some block out on...thinking if I use a dry brush technique with the block dye that may work. Anyone ever try that? Image

Thanks all! I think I have a piece of pipe to carve over. I will also wet and then oil the base as you all suggested. Even wi the crack, there is still some strain on the bend and it could get larger. Thanks for everyone’s advice. This is a great forum. You all are very generous.

Thanks, Tinkerton. I am certainly considering that. I like that it will both cover the crack and also protect the fold from chaffing fro the straps. I already started a wet mold of a 1.5" strap to cover the length of the fold, but may consider carving a different strap more and THEN wet molding. Have only carved flat pieces. Recommendation requested: (1) carve then wet mold or (2) wet mold and then carve?

Thanks all. The crack is along a small portion of the bend of a rifle case for a saddle. It’s right where the strap will cross but longer than the width of the strap; the strap at the barrel end of the case.

Thank you, Tom! I will certainly do that next time. Here are the pictures of the crack on the fold. Still a work in progress. Thinking about stitching a strip of leather along the fold.

Under more of a "How do I fix that?"... I colored and finished a large piece of 8oz leather, then folded it to complete the project. I heard a sharp "crack" and discovered that the top grain had split on the fold. Any thoughts on how to salvage this AND prevent it from happening next time? I used Ecoflow dye in the past with success and am afraid that my use of the alcohol based Pro Dye might have dried it out this time. Either that or its just this hide. I really don't want tot start over....

I have made a couple of saddle bags using the Tandy pattern, but I had a client ask for insulated saddlebags. When I search for the materials, I can only find manuafactired insulted bags, not the materials themselves. Any suggestions on making this kind of thing and and ideas on where to get the materials?

Thanks, fellow WB Eagle WinterBear! I have ordered from Black River Laser before and they are excellent. Just get a template and then cut with a bot cutter? Leathercraft scissors did not work well.

I made my first piece of tack the other day...it was a bit hanger for a Paso Fino. I used a Kuda one as a model but did not have the same end punch. I cut mine by hand but was not pleased with the results. The end punch on the original appeared to have been a long taper to a rounded end. Where would I find one of those? I have been searching for end punches to make the rest of the head gear (jaquima) but can't find it. Can anyone help?

I got mine recently from Black River Laser in Ohio. Fantastic Customer Service! I highly recommend them...but not metal. blackriverlaser@gmail.com You will hear from Joyce ASAP!

I want to do this also, with a Harbor Freight Arbor Press I just bought. Gonna have to take the plunge and find some help. Tampa, Fl area.

After reading this topic (and the great things that potroast said above), I took the plunge and e-mailed Joyce at Black River Laser. She was WONDERFUL! I have never met a nicer person to deal with who responded SO quickly (honestly, I think that woman NEVER sleeps)! I was so happy that I bought TWO stamps! I wanted a custom makers stamp that I designed (and Joyce helped me finish) as well as a Coast Guard Logo. Joyce was such a pleasure to work with and the price was VERY reasonable! I also felt really good about buying American! I will definitely go back to Black River Laser any time I want a custom stamp!