chiefjason

Finally managed to finish a personal holster. I had made another snap on rig earlier and had this grand notion of making it capable of being IWB or OWB. Well, it seems you can do both OK but neither well. So this time I went for a dedicated OWB rig. The changes I made for this one were integrated straps, double snaps, fully lined, and I left the bottom open. Basically, I fixed all the mistakes I made on my first one. I have to say that the lined holsters look great. But I don't see myself making many of them. Wow, that was a lot of work! The holster is 4 layers of 5-6 oz Hermann Oak B grade leather, hand stitched, and vinegroon finished. Any critiques are welcome. For your viewing pleasure. Front side snapped. View of straps. Back side. First shot is a top edge and then a side edge. I'm much happier with the burnishing on this one. Even though evening out 4 layers was kind of tough. Shot of the lining. And the most important part, how it rides. Much tighter than the last one. These strap will not be slipping off and letting the holster move off my hip.

What are you comparing yourself too? When I started out I looked at lots of professional holsters and decided what I wanted to be able to do eventually. First holster was OK, but comparing to other stuff I was not happy. Then I found out a lot of the very detailed holsters are pressed not hand molded. Not sure if you will ever get the detail by hand that you would with a press. Just make sure you are not comparing apples to oranges. My last holster I am very happy with. It's not what I may have originally wanted to be able to do, but now that I know I was comparing 2 different techniques it has changed my attitude about the details. My first few holsters were using 8-9 oz and I was able to get pretty good detail on them. Letting it dry a bit helps too. If the leather is too damp it has a tendency to not take the boning and you start to loose the details. If you have to go back and try to rework stuff it might be too damp.

Something that really helped my burnishing was getting a round edger and getting the plastic bone folder/edger combo. The smooth finish on them really helps. Some of my tools were too rough edged to finish well. I also started mixing my own wax 50% paraffin from a block of it and 50% beeswax from a toilet seal. I might cut it 60/40 next time, the beeswax is still a bit too sticky for my liking. I also wet a bar of soap, put some on my finger, and rub it over the edge before applying the wax. I make Vinagroon to color my holsters black. There are several great threads on it here. This is where I learned about it. For a mild tan you can use Neatsfoot oil. I want to look into using black walnuts at some point, I just need to get some. IIRC, you can get some finishes in matte. I use mop and glo cut 50/50 with water and it's not terribly shiny. But I would not consider it matte either. A couple of tools I am glad I purchased specifically for leather; an edger, harness needles, the round burnisher, and the plastic bone folder. I really like my dremel work station and variable speed dremel too.

Just finished up a couple hybrids. I grooned, let them set 24 hours, Oiled and let set 24 hours, then applied 2 coats of Mop and Glo with a rag and no grey. Looks like that may be the trick. Glad I did not throw the Mop and Glo out.

I can tell you this. If you try with your standard pattern you will likely end up with the gun in a bit of an odd position in the holster. I tried one where I twisted it and the gun ended up in a different position than was preferable. It sat great on the hip though. And that's another thing, I hardly ever carry at 3:00, right on the hip, unless I am open carrying. If I'm concealing it's back behind the hip. Just a thought. So, depending on the holster position on the waist, you could be trying to solve a problem that does not exist.

I needed to get a holster for my wife's carry gun. I made a hybrid holster for it. Then moved into leather. I've only made about 6 all leather holsters and a ton of hybrid beltslides. I get all my materials from Springfield Leather at this point. I've been happy with the service from them. The thing I like best is you can order smaller pieces of leather instead of forking out a lot of money on a large piece. It's good for getting started. And yes, it's quite an addiction. I'm headed to work on some here soon. Oh, and don't discount making your own tools. I've made a stitching pony, kydex press, several boning tools, a drying rack, and probably more. You don't have to buy everything. Try to understand what the tool does and how, then see what you have around. My boning tools are a deer antler and a few toothbrushes that have been sanded into shape. I've bought a few others since but the homemade one's find regular use still. And that's a nice looking first holster. And here is the tutorial that got me started. Lots of great info here. I was pointed here later. http://www.shanewhitlock.com/photo/v/leather/holsters/tut/

I've made a few of them and prefer not to finish the back. I don't want anything stiffening up the rough side. Stiffened fibers of that leather will scrap and poke you far more than the T nuts will. I made one for my G19 because I can't stand the horsehide squeak that my CB has. It's 100% unfinished 8-9 oz Hermann Oak and there have been no issues. I went with leather because everything I have made from horsehide has a built in squeak to it. YMMV, but I don't like it much. I'll be making another mag holder to replace my squeaky horsehide one at some point. I just need to settle on a design. Tons of companies are knocking off the design. And from what I understand CB was one of those companies. For some reason what they were doing just took off. But my understanding is that they did not originate the concept.

Nice. I like the sunburst kind of look too.

So you are drying 24 hours after the water rinse. Then oiling the leather after it dries for 24 hours? Then finishing. Just wanting to be sure. I've already oiled a batch of leather backs but will try it next go around.

I recently made some tuckable loops and it took about 10" of leather. I think I went 3/4" wide. If they are not tuckable, then they could be quite a bit shorter.

IMO, one of the keys to good color is the baking soda solution. Not sure why, but it just seems blacker with a good solution. I keep a bucket of it around to dip pieces in and replace it regularly. If it's older there is more of a grey tint. With fresh solution it is a very deep black. I use 1/4 C baking soda and a gallon of water.

I'm using harness needles with a more dull point than sewing needles. I started off with sharp point needles and noticed they were more likely to split through the thread. The dull point seems to move the thread out of the way. Are you using a knot at your needle eye? I've heard folks talk about breaking thread at the knot. I just let 2-3" of thread hang out of the eye and have not broken any thread.....yet.... As a personal aside, I find myself making my holes smaller so they grip the thread more instead of larger. Larger is easier to stitch for sure, but it does not feel as secure to me any more. The only time I may use a larger hole is if I know I'm starting more than one stitch there. Like on the lined holster I am doing. Some stitching was done before final glueing and some will be done after. I drilled a couple holes larger to incorporate the additional thread.

The best luck I have had so far is to burnish it by hand with water only before grooning. It smooths it up really nice and there is no other material on the edge to act as a resist. When I tried this with wax it made it hard for the groon to take. And doing it by hand does not generate the heat that might seal it up or burn it. The groon will raise the grain a bit though. I just go back over it with some soap and wax and lay it all back down. I might even go back with some denim with wax on it and polish it too. Then finish it. I was edging while the groon was still wet. That worked OK, but on single wide hybrid holsters I was really deforming the edge more than I liked. I've also gotten away from using my dremel tool to edge. I'm not sure why, but the wheel really raises some of the grain back up. And lightly burnishing with just water first has taken away most of my need to burnish with power tools anyway.

Lets just say I am thankful that I bought that Dremel work station that makes it into a drill press. Oh yeah! I just drilled some holes in my holster a bit ago. I'm doing a lined holster, so I need to stitch a few parts before glueing it all together. That blade would be kind of cool. Not sure horsehide would need it. I started off with a belt kit from Hobby Lobby. I was nearly ready to finish it up, but I did not like the stiffness. Since I did not know for sure what weight it was I went back and lined it with some 4-5oz I had around. It's plenty stiff now. I just need to groon it, finish it up, and post some pics.

I just hand stitched a 2 layer belt for my wife. I feel your pain! Crazy part is, I am contemplating starting one of my own. But I have a holster to do first. Those look great.

I use a foam brush. And since I'm using one layer on the hybrids, I groon the piece front and back. Sometimes I will go back after the leather has set for 10-15 minutes and go over it again if it looks like it is not taking. I put it on pretty heavy. I know the last holster I practiced on was brushed and it went grey. I have not dipped any in a while. I may give it a try on the next one and see. I know a go through a lot more groon dipping. But it would be all good if I could get the M&G to work. Another question. Do you deglaze before grooning? I find that it makes it harder for the groon to take. I may be stripping the tannins out with the alcohol or acetone that I have used. I just quit doing it since it seems to work better.

I like it, but a double layered beltslide would just be a holster. No need for kydex. Funny thing is, I offered an all leather beltslide made from 2 layers of 8-9. Maybe he should have paid the extra money an bought that. FWIW, I've been kicking around doing an all leather tuckable like that and just molding it like a normal holster. It's on my to do list. Speaking of hardware, I have figured out how to make some nice leather loops for the tuckables. I'm just waiting on the correct hardware to finish them off.

I had thought about posting something about not being able to please everybody myself. The customer is not always right, sometimes they are down right stupid. I'm way new to the process of making and selling holsters. I've been selling kydex beltslide holsters on ebay. Yeah, it's like a yard sale but you gotta start somewhere. Well, all the reviews from there and a gun board I frequent have been great. Everybody loves the holsters. Heck, I'm wearing one now. So a couple days ago a guy posts some feedback on ebay. The feedback is, "Ok for the money but won't last long having single thickness leather belt loops". Dude! Seriously?! All hybrid holsters are one layer of leather and one layer of Kydex. And it's a layer of 8-9oz Hermann Oak at that. I left a comment that he needed to contact me if he had a problem. But he listed it as positive so there was not much I could do. Some people. A part of me wants to go hang one on the kids swingset and see if it will hold my weight hanging from it. I think it will be close. So unless someone drags him around by his holster, I doubt I'll hear from him.

I think you have mentioned the atom wax before with this issue from another thread. I have some on order to tinker with. It's on it's way so I'll have it later in the week. It's a learning process and this one has me stumped. Truth be told, being stumped is probably annoying me more than the finish issue. I've got plenty of scrap around now, so I'll be tinkering with a few things. If I could get my leather pieces to move like the kydex ones I would be happy to do more leather. As it stands, kydex is the rage. I really like the style of holster I'm making and wear one regularly. But leather is a lot more fun. It's the difference between making something and building something IMO. Kydex is more building a holster, putting together the materials. All leather is more like making a holster, it's more of an art form than a science. Like a lot of things, it's a matter of taste. But since I am not selling my leather holsters it is freeing up the material to build myself another one and improve the design a bit.

Mike, I really appreciate all the input. As an FYI here is where my issue is. Most of the holsters I am building are hybrids. One layer of 8-9 oz Hermann Oak leather as a backer and a kydex mold for the gun. These are belt slide holsters and that is why I am concerned about dying and finishing them. I am not deglazing them before grooning. And that may be some of the issue but the groon takes MUCH better that way; it's darker and less blotchy. I also groon both sides of the leather. I groon them, let them set a while, baking soda rinse, clean water rinse, let them dry a bit, then apply neatsfoot oil. Sometimes 2 coats of neatsfoot oil if it looks like it needs it. Let that dry about 24 hours. Then apply the mop & glo. Even with one coat I have problems. If I flex the leather it looks like the mop & glo turns gray where the grain is. Basically, the leather gets this gray spidery look to it. The resolene does not do this. And I'm not comfortable sending something like this out knowing it will likely do that around the belt loop area where the leather flexes. I would take a pic but I doubt it would show up. Oh well, at least the groon saves me some money. It's not looking like the mop & glo will. I applied some to a discarded holster back with a sprayer yesterday. It did the same thing. Maybe it's me. lol Here is one of the holsters I'm making for reference.

Sylvia, I keep meaning to but have not gotten around to it. I just strained a new batch so maybe it's time to start. I have to say this batch hardly even smelled and was pretty clear. I let it brew outside in the sun for a few weeks though.

In my experience it's been hit or miss. If the groon is clean I don't have a problem. If the junk on the bottom starts lifting then that definitely stains my hands, shirt, whatever it gets on. But my hands stay kind of grungy and dirty from work so maybe I just don't notice. It's not been problematic enough for me to glove up. But the edges of my fingernails and any rough skin pick up either the groon itself or black residue off the leather. It makes me look like I'm a real leatherworker though.

I guess there is hope. Now I need to figure out what I am doing wrong. Thanks! But in the meantime I ordered some black resolene and black atom wax to tinker with. I need to find a sprayer for the mop & glo and try that. I've tried brushing it on with a foam brush, a sponge, and rubbing it in with a rag. None of it worked.

Have you ever used mop & glo over vinagroon? Are you now using the multi surface mop & glo? I'd love to get it to work. May have to try spraying on some scrap leather. For what I am doing, all I need is black. So the groon has been great, except for trying to finish it.

Sorta. If you let it set and all the particulates fall out, then no stain. If you shake it up, it will stain. Even straining it through coffee filters will not get all the particulates out for me. I have to let it sit. Then carefully dip a brush in and not stir it up. It's the junk in the mixture that stains. The liquid itself will not. At least, that's my experience. Now, sometimes in the process of working with the wet grooned leather I will get some black rubbing off on my hands. Gloves would fix that, but I just hate gloves. I like the wrapped denim idea. Going to have to try that too. I've got some stapled to a section of quarter round that I burnish with by hand.