Pinsplitter

Can I ask a bit of a dumb question. There is correct tension for the thread you are using, I set bobbin tension as a bit firm when you pull it by hand then upper tension to get the stitch centred in the material, so the stitch looks fine, but sometimes it seems not as tight as I'd like it to be. Is there a way to make a stitch tighter? Increasing bobbin tension to a point where the machine still stitches well? I have a Highlead flatbed and a Seiko CH-8B cylinder arm (like a 441).

Thanks for all that info guys. I was wondering if annealing them would help, i will give that a try too, and get some from a different supplier to see if their is any difference.

I bought some copper rivets and the matching setting tool, and I can't get the end to go down to a nice rounded ball shape, i hit it really really hard. What am i missing? Bought in Australia, is it possible the copper is too hard? They are difficult to cut to, i have to use a hacksaw, i can't just snip the post with cutters.

I want to do some outside pockets much like these on a bag i bought in Thailand. What i can't do is find a way to sew those tight corners. Do you sew from the inside or outside? The foot on my Highlead flatbed machine is too big it seems and i can't turn the corner without it getting in the way. Do you need a very small foot? Is a flatbed not ideal? What's the trick to physically manage the 2 pieces when turning the corner? I also have a Seiko CH-8B (441 style) but i can't see how this machine would make it any easier either. also, how do you burnish the edges on thin leather like they have done rather nicely? Thanks in advance for any tips.

Can i ask about the zipper? is a 2 way zipper a special type or do you just fit 2 pullers to a normal zipper?

Anyone know if rivets like these are available anywhere? Really like the ones on the old Burton golf bag. The other is from a Mizuno golf bag (more recent). Another question too: About zippers, are 2 way zippers actually any different to normal zippers, the teeth etc? I need "center opening" (if that's what you call it, open from center to the ends) 2 way zippers for bags.

Can I make a comment on youtube tutorial type vids, what really annoys me are 2 fundamental mistakes, they don't make sure the image is actually in focus and they can't be bothered to actually put light on the thing. use lots of light, lots!! for video light directed from the camera point of view is best, with side and back fill lights as well if you have them or use reflectors. I don't have imovie installed atm but i imagine it can do what you want or maybe download a copy of Adobe Premiere Elements 30 day trial. Try to fix the phone on something (tripod?) to eliminate handheld camera movement. Tutorial type things should be clean, sharp and very visible.

If you want to get a little bit serious. The traditional studio Light Table looks like this pic. It is transluscent perspex on a frame. In the old days of using film, "contouring" or "deep etching" to take out the background added cost to the customer, so you had to shoot the thing with a clean or graduated background that did not need any extra work on the film. The basics of a white background is to have the light under the table twice as bright as the top lights (plus any side lights you might use), this is a "1 stop" difference in light levels. If the bottom light is too strong the edges of the product will flare out a bit and look weak. The product would be sat up on a block, maybe 2-4 inches high that can't be seen from the camera angle. The curve of the background perspex will give you an even graduation from white to grey, or add another light to keep it all white. If your product is small you don't really need any of the curvy bits (the front down curve is only necessary if you shoot from a very low angle btw.). To make it really simple for a small product just two flat sheets of perspex could be used as in the RHS pic, making a V shape, get the top piece very close to the product, right over it, you should imagine the product is a mirror (it actually is as far as light and camera is concerned) so the top piece fully "covers" the product. White reflectors, card or foam sheet, can be placed on the right and left sides vertically as well. You could do it with just 2 lights, strong ones 500 watt at least, 4 would be better, 2 top 2 bottom for even light, in Aus they sell "work lights" at hardware stores pretty cheap, tungsten-halogen lights in a square metal box, they would work pretty good. The right and left sides can have more perspex pieces instead of reflectors if you want more light control with a light directed through each one. This will be good if you are not a Photoshop expert, the pic will be fine to publish without more work, even if you can Photoshop a very clean white background helps to "contour" the product with the Pen tool, or even just Magic Wand the background to delete it if you are in a hurry. A large example of the same technique is using a full Cyclorama, basically a white room with curved corners and just one open side for the camera and to get the product in, used for cars and also for very "high key" fashion shots, you can achieve very flat lighting so skin imperfections etc are almost removed. That car pic is unretouched shot on film.

Hi all, In australia been looking for 2nd hand 441 style machine, not easy to find any at all. I have found a Seiko CH-2/RF and have got confused by the information on the net, there seems to have been 2 models with very different specs. I had a look at this one and it we (me and seller) finally found out that it was not set up correctly for straight sewing. It is a "shirring" or ruffling machine. The specs say Drop feed and walking foot (Capable of intermittent shirring). well i don't think i'll ever need shirring, but for the price for a real Seiko it is attractive. When i was there we could not get the 'thing" up the threaded rod so the two bolts were at A and B, the straight stitching setting (confusing i know, there's this threaded rod at the back and a sliding thing and where this is stopped sets the amount of shirring i think), the machine was noisy and clunky and the foot wouldn't ride over edges. So i left it to think about, then driving home i got a call from him saying he had been able to get the setting right and now it was WALKING, he shouted it haa haa, its an odd foot, there is only one foot, see pic. My thinking is if it is really walking and running smooth, the lack of reverse is the only drawback, and its probably a very good machine for the round tops of possible leather golf bags etc. Its very strong, 10mm stitch, 20mm presser lift. So wondering if anyone knows this machine or has experience with similar models, the CH-8B is probably the ideal leather machine, Compound feed and walking foot,reverse stitch, can't afford a new one of them. Sidenote. The advice i am getting from the local professional shops is really apalling, they really know bugger all, and second hand sellers remind me of used car salesmen. Any comments really appreciated, thanks.

i just noticed the Pfaff has a roller foot, does this mean its not a walking foot machine? the seller says its for leather, saddlery, collars, belts etc... i don't believe any of these guys anymore.

searching online in Australia i find machines for sale that seem reasonable for leather. i call the sellers and they know almost nothing. then I spend hours trying to find the specs for the machines and usually can't find anything. so these 2 machines, Singer 211 U566A Pfaff 543 anyone know the max thickness, thread size, needle size for these? looking for something to sew 4 thicknesses of 1.2mm standard type leather, thicker would be better of course. thanks in advance

i have a Pfaff 335 clone machine which has started to bunch/loop the bottom thread. The machine has been moved and in storage for 3 months until I put it back in action. All solutions I have read say its usually from incorrect threading or wrong top thread tension. I have checked all this, tried different tensions, cleaned the tension discs. Sometimes I get a clunk noise after a few inches sewing. Also it doesn't seem to pick up the bobbin thread very well when loading a new bobbin. Has the timing gone out or something? pics of problem below.

thanks all. well i ended up buying it, i think its a Pfaff, could be a copy not sure, there's no Pfaff name on it...hmmmm in a Singer table with a SInger 1440rpm motor. Noisy things aren't they? so the speed was way to high for me and my learner skill level. got info on a speed reducer on another thread, not readily available here in Aus, nor are servo motors easy to find, so i made my own speed reducer. also modified the pedal and extended the clutch arm to try to make the travel slower. look very home-made but it all works really well. i have a very nice speed now for me. here's the pic. have to make a bobbin winder next. overall i am pretty happy with it.

thanks for that info. i did actually find a pic of a speed reducer. $145 plus shipping to Aus and waiting was too hard, so i made one myself......!! see the pic. it might not look so neat and tidy but it works really really well. now i have the speed i want/ need, nice and slow and very controllable. before i did the speed reducer i was trying to get more control by extending the clutch arm, this did help a bit also, so i left that but did not like using my left foot so did another addition so its under my right foot. so now the whole thing looks pretty weird but HEY!! IT WORKS GOOD!!! the pressure on the pedal is actually really nice, its like a long throw and sort of soft, adjusting the tension on the return spring sets it up for the pressure you like. all together it cost about $110 . of course the bobbin winder is defunct, so next thing is to do a fix for that.

errrr.. what exactly is a speed reducer? i have searched and found no pics or description is it just a smaller pulley? has anyone ever tried using an electronic speed controller on a clutch motor?