Pinsplitter

Can I ask a bit of a dumb question. There is correct tension for the thread you are using, I set bobbin tension as a bit firm when you pull it by hand then upper tension to get the stitch centred in the material, so the stitch looks fine, but sometimes it seems not as tight as I'd like it to be. Is there a way to make a stitch tighter? Increasing bobbin tension to a point where the machine still stitches well? I have a Highlead flatbed and a Seiko CH-8B cylinder arm (like a 441).

Thanks for all that info guys. I was wondering if annealing them would help, i will give that a try too, and get some from a different supplier to see if their is any difference.

I bought some copper rivets and the matching setting tool, and I can't get the end to go down to a nice rounded ball shape, i hit it really really hard. What am i missing? Bought in Australia, is it possible the copper is too hard? They are difficult to cut to, i have to use a hacksaw, i can't just snip the post with cutters.

I want to do some outside pockets much like these on a bag i bought in Thailand. What i can't do is find a way to sew those tight corners. Do you sew from the inside or outside? The foot on my Highlead flatbed machine is too big it seems and i can't turn the corner without it getting in the way. Do you need a very small foot? Is a flatbed not ideal? What's the trick to physically manage the 2 pieces when turning the corner? I also have a Seiko CH-8B (441 style) but i can't see how this machine would make it any easier either. also, how do you burnish the edges on thin leather like they have done rather nicely? Thanks in advance for any tips.

Can i ask about the zipper? is a 2 way zipper a special type or do you just fit 2 pullers to a normal zipper?

Anyone know if rivets like these are available anywhere? Really like the ones on the old Burton golf bag. The other is from a Mizuno golf bag (more recent). Another question too: About zippers, are 2 way zippers actually any different to normal zippers, the teeth etc? I need "center opening" (if that's what you call it, open from center to the ends) 2 way zippers for bags.

Can I make a comment on youtube tutorial type vids, what really annoys me are 2 fundamental mistakes, they don't make sure the image is actually in focus and they can't be bothered to actually put light on the thing. use lots of light, lots!! for video light directed from the camera point of view is best, with side and back fill lights as well if you have them or use reflectors. I don't have imovie installed atm but i imagine it can do what you want or maybe download a copy of Adobe Premiere Elements 30 day trial. Try to fix the phone on something (tripod?) to eliminate handheld camera movement. Tutorial type things should be clean, sharp and very visible.

If you want to get a little bit serious. The traditional studio Light Table looks like this pic. It is transluscent perspex on a frame. In the old days of using film, "contouring" or "deep etching" to take out the background added cost to the customer, so you had to shoot the thing with a clean or graduated background that did not need any extra work on the film. The basics of a white background is to have the light under the table twice as bright as the top lights (plus any side lights you might use), this is a "1 stop" difference in light levels. If the bottom light is too strong the edges of the product will flare out a bit and look weak. The product would be sat up on a block, maybe 2-4 inches high that can't be seen from the camera angle. The curve of the background perspex will give you an even graduation from white to grey, or add another light to keep it all white. If your product is small you don't really need any of the curvy bits (the front down curve is only necessary if you shoot from a very low angle btw.). To make it really simple for a small product just two flat sheets of perspex could be used as in the RHS pic, making a V shape, get the top piece very close to the product, right over it, you should imagine the product is a mirror (it actually is as far as light and camera is concerned) so the top piece fully "covers" the product. White reflectors, card or foam sheet, can be placed on the right and left sides vertically as well. You could do it with just 2 lights, strong ones 500 watt at least, 4 would be better, 2 top 2 bottom for even light, in Aus they sell "work lights" at hardware stores pretty cheap, tungsten-halogen lights in a square metal box, they would work pretty good. The right and left sides can have more perspex pieces instead of reflectors if you want more light control with a light directed through each one. This will be good if you are not a Photoshop expert, the pic will be fine to publish without more work, even if you can Photoshop a very clean white background helps to "contour" the product with the Pen tool, or even just Magic Wand the background to delete it if you are in a hurry. A large example of the same technique is using a full Cyclorama, basically a white room with curved corners and just one open side for the camera and to get the product in, used for cars and also for very "high key" fashion shots, you can achieve very flat lighting so skin imperfections etc are almost removed. That car pic is unretouched shot on film.

Hi all, In australia been looking for 2nd hand 441 style machine, not easy to find any at all. I have found a Seiko CH-2/RF and have got confused by the information on the net, there seems to have been 2 models with very different specs. I had a look at this one and it we (me and seller) finally found out that it was not set up correctly for straight sewing. It is a "shirring" or ruffling machine. The specs say Drop feed and walking foot (Capable of intermittent shirring). well i don't think i'll ever need shirring, but for the price for a real Seiko it is attractive. When i was there we could not get the 'thing" up the threaded rod so the two bolts were at A and B, the straight stitching setting (confusing i know, there's this threaded rod at the back and a sliding thing and where this is stopped sets the amount of shirring i think), the machine was noisy and clunky and the foot wouldn't ride over edges. So i left it to think about, then driving home i got a call from him saying he had been able to get the setting right and now it was WALKING, he shouted it haa haa, its an odd foot, there is only one foot, see pic. My thinking is if it is really walking and running smooth, the lack of reverse is the only drawback, and its probably a very good machine for the round tops of possible leather golf bags etc. Its very strong, 10mm stitch, 20mm presser lift. So wondering if anyone knows this machine or has experience with similar models, the CH-8B is probably the ideal leather machine, Compound feed and walking foot,reverse stitch, can't afford a new one of them. Sidenote. The advice i am getting from the local professional shops is really apalling, they really know bugger all, and second hand sellers remind me of used car salesmen. Any comments really appreciated, thanks.

i just noticed the Pfaff has a roller foot, does this mean its not a walking foot machine? the seller says its for leather, saddlery, collars, belts etc... i don't believe any of these guys anymore.

searching online in Australia i find machines for sale that seem reasonable for leather. i call the sellers and they know almost nothing. then I spend hours trying to find the specs for the machines and usually can't find anything. so these 2 machines, Singer 211 U566A Pfaff 543 anyone know the max thickness, thread size, needle size for these? looking for something to sew 4 thicknesses of 1.2mm standard type leather, thicker would be better of course. thanks in advance

i have a Pfaff 335 clone machine which has started to bunch/loop the bottom thread. The machine has been moved and in storage for 3 months until I put it back in action. All solutions I have read say its usually from incorrect threading or wrong top thread tension. I have checked all this, tried different tensions, cleaned the tension discs. Sometimes I get a clunk noise after a few inches sewing. Also it doesn't seem to pick up the bobbin thread very well when loading a new bobbin. Has the timing gone out or something? pics of problem below.

thanks all. well i ended up buying it, i think its a Pfaff, could be a copy not sure, there's no Pfaff name on it...hmmmm in a Singer table with a SInger 1440rpm motor. Noisy things aren't they? so the speed was way to high for me and my learner skill level. got info on a speed reducer on another thread, not readily available here in Aus, nor are servo motors easy to find, so i made my own speed reducer. also modified the pedal and extended the clutch arm to try to make the travel slower. look very home-made but it all works really well. i have a very nice speed now for me. here's the pic. have to make a bobbin winder next. overall i am pretty happy with it.

thanks for that info. i did actually find a pic of a speed reducer. $145 plus shipping to Aus and waiting was too hard, so i made one myself......!! see the pic. it might not look so neat and tidy but it works really really well. now i have the speed i want/ need, nice and slow and very controllable. before i did the speed reducer i was trying to get more control by extending the clutch arm, this did help a bit also, so i left that but did not like using my left foot so did another addition so its under my right foot. so now the whole thing looks pretty weird but HEY!! IT WORKS GOOD!!! the pressure on the pedal is actually really nice, its like a long throw and sort of soft, adjusting the tension on the return spring sets it up for the pressure you like. all together it cost about $110 . of course the bobbin winder is defunct, so next thing is to do a fix for that.

errrr.. what exactly is a speed reducer? i have searched and found no pics or description is it just a smaller pulley? has anyone ever tried using an electronic speed controller on a clutch motor?

yep gawd ur right. i should pay attention, i might end up buying a mowing machine. can't find anything about a 355 i might have written it down wrongly. anyhow i'll see it tomorrow. its $AUD900 which is pretty reasonable i think, here in Aus.

I am looking at A Pfaff 355 tomorrow. but i can't find much info on it online. the pic i think is what it might look like. my guess is it would stitch to about 1/2 inch thick, 6mm stitch length. anyone know this machine? thanks

Thanks for all that guys. I probably should have explained more clearly what I want to make. I do not want to set up a professional factory. In a sense I want to do design testing of the golf bags, and actually make some simple golf bags and travel bags and head covers. More the shoulder carry bag style and "stand bag" style, 6 1/2 inches and 8 inches diameter. So I am not talking about the large complex "staff" bags you see on tv tournaments. Even simple things like the handle and strap need proper placement so the bag balances nicely when its full of clubs. The size and placement of pockets and things like a clip-on water bottle pocket are all things I want to test before sending design to the factory. For example a simple do it myself bag would be "collapsible" soft construction until final insertion of support struts, so for my own work the long seam would have to be done by hand for a solid bag with a shell. The real bags for sale will be made by a factory in China. I want to learn about design and construction so I can specify what I want and know if its a sensible thing to ask of a factory. So I am thinking that with a machine with a 15 inch arm I would be able to do a lot of things, not everything. The one I am looking at is a copy of the Juki TSC-441. sews 14mm thick stitch 0 - 11mm presser foot lift 20mm 800 rpm 550 watt The servo motor is $560 versus $165 for clutch motor. That's why I am wondering if a clutch motor can be okay if you get the speed right. Thanks for all your help here, I am slowly learning the basics. There's a lot to know isn't there? haa haa...

Can't find my old thread, so here goes. I am a real newbie sorry. I want to sew bags, from small ones to larger golf bags, i can't justify a 36 inch long arm machine (talking $6000), so i know there will be compromises and some hand stitching needed. I am researching cylinder arm machines from China. I am in Australia and there almost no machines available here. One that looks kinda ok has up to 11mm stitch, 20mm presser foot lift and 1000 rpm clutch motor. It is Unison Feed. What is Unison feed compared to Compound Feed? They said that a servo motor would not be suitable for this machine, why would that be? Can't you put a servo motor on any machine you want. How much speed control would you have with a 1000rpm clutch motor? i have only done a little sewing on an almost uncontrollable clutch motor machine and its wrecks nearly all my attempts to make a nice straight stitch. If you change pulleys to slow a machine down, what final speed would be good? I see that servo motors go from zero to about 250rpm i think. What power would be required from a servo motor? Sorry for so many dumb questions, hope you can help, thanks

Aha... ok thanks luckily i haven't bought it, just had no clue what it was. saw it going cheap on ebay.

Anyone know anything about this old Consew? what can it do, thickness etc. thanks

ah ok thanks for that. gawd i know nothing i better be careful.

kidding about QLD ... saw a Juki LS 1341 secondhand machine just now in Bangkok. asking $AUD 1350.00 approx. i see they are about $4300 new. guess it would be a good buy if i really needed a machine that serious. man its enormous!! not what you call portable. i guess i could do a lot of a golf bag with it. and use it for the smaller bags / head covers and things like that. was hoping not to spend that much on what is really the second machine, money is never wasted on good quality tools they say..... hmmmmm.... anyhow doing some more looking around tomorrow.

yes thanks very much. that is a lovely offer. is Queensland dangerous? I haven't been there for 20 years. I won't be back in Aus for a month and then will be busy but I will see how my plan unfolds. Q. do you think it might be good to find a leather supplier here in Thailand to export to me in Aus? would that be a reasonable cost saving compared to buying retail in Aus. Thanks all for your help.

Thanks all for the interest in my "problem". i am approaching it like you say. - a small workshop with one skilled worker is all i need. - design made as simple as possible. - pattern made to work from. if i do happen to find the worker i still think i would have to supply a machine or two, unlikely they would have the right type of machine. i really need to learn how to do it myself as well so i know if the worker guy knows what he's doing or show him how. (you can't trust anyone not to take shortcuts or do a near enough good enough job in Asia). unfortunately Thailand suits me as a location, but i take your point about it not happening here anymore. at least i know how to deal with the people and what to expect (i.e. not much). Vietnam maybe yes, or even Burma , but i don't know about getting the leather there. i am thinking i might not need one of those sew down the arm machines, the material will not be rigid or reinforced until after most sewing is done. so the long seams can be done when it is all still flat, until the very last seam to make the actual sleeve/cylinder shape. a pain to think i might need a whole machine to do just one seam.....hmmmm... i would happily spend the money if i knew my brilliant idea was going to work!! but i need to go slowly at first to test the market and feasability of manufacturing this way. those chinese machines are pretty cheap, $1200 for a long cylinder arm and under $400 for a 30cm arm (not inc shipping). anyhow my next step is to look at some leather suppliers here in Thailand for costing that part, and look around Bangkok sewing machine suppliers, and ask about any leads to find a leather worker and other supplies like hardware etc. this is actually a very difficult country to get anything done or to find anything.