Constabulary
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Posts posted by Constabulary
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They do - I had a Dürkopp hook in my 111G156. However - the shaft of the 111 hook has a grove where one of the set screws sits in but the Dürkopp hook as no such grove. Thats the main difference beside that you can separate the shaft from the hook at the Dürkopp 241 hook and the Singer 111 in one piece. Meaning - when you replace the 241 hook with a 111 hook you have to pull the entire hook including shaft (most likely you have to re time the machine cause the gears could get out of alignment) When you replace the old Dürkopp hook with a new Dürkopp hook the shaft remains in the machine and you only pull out the hook which is attached with a (vertical) screw.
hard to explain - let me see if I can take some pictures...
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Tension unit looks a bit like a Pfaff tension unit.
Since you are from France I´d check with college sewing in the UK.
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/mitsubishi-industrial-sewing-machine-spare-parts/
You may find other useful parts or maybe a servo motor there. it worth browsing their website.
The DU-105 for sure shares some parts with the Singer 211 so checking Singer parts could be also helpful.
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For sure a handy machine - you never know when you have to sew the next airplane hangar for you friend or neighbor.
I think last year we had a post with this Singer 8-8 machine - not sure if Bob @ Toledo Sewing had one - or so - do not recall.
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The 105-64 is a bottom feed + needle feed machine - they usually have less aggressive feed dogs compared with plain bottom feed / drop feed machines. So the marking are approx the same as on walking toot / triple feed machines.
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they have a oval data plate with Class and Subclass. Like 45K89 - 45K is the class and 89 is the subclass.
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Singer 7 or 97 and Adler 20 winder have a longer pin for the bobbin and a wider filler tongue /stop latch. I´d also say Singer 132K / 133K but the coil spring is missing. Yes friction leather strip is missing too, they were attached with brass pins.
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Yes, I have one for the Adler II and Adler III - I can send you both when you send me a PM with your email address.
I have used 794 needles back then. System 794 needles are approx 68-70mm long so I think whey could work IF the needle you have is the original needle - you never know.
This was my project back then:
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I haven`teven tried to find out more - I just removed the NPS and I´m good. You can turn of the NPS.
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You at least know the models you could look for. Servo motors come with different voltage you may find the same models with 220V / 240V but keep in mind 220V in the US is 3 phase not single phase as in the EU / NZ or other countries.
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Thats actually and ADLER II or III - I had one of these - very cool and smooth machine it was but
Yours even has the gear reduction!
You also find them branded with CLAES, ATLAS or DROSSNER and other brands.
I think I still have the copy of the German manual - let me check...
EDIT - looks like an Adler II...
later...
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40 minutes ago, dikman said:
If you run a servo and use slow speeds then grease flinging shouldn't be a problem.
agree - I´d use a sticky synthetic chain lube on the open gears & gear boxes. I quit filling gear boxes with grease I only clean them and spray in sticky chain lube from time to time. No issues and seems some gears run a bit more silent with this stuff. It just works for me - everyone has his own "magic recipe" for lube & grease
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It will not hurt running the machine w/o the cover - machines like Singer 111 or Dürkopp 239 have open gears to - that's not an issue at all. Personably I think open gears are even easier to service. Grease filled gear boxed in the hook area can be a "magnet" for lint, thread pieces or broken needle tips - not necessarily but I have found this stuff in gear boxes.
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if you have tons of 16x257 and they have the same shaft diameter you can probably adjust the needle bar to make this needle system work - that's not unusual to do.
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Just had a request where I found the flip up split needle assys - they are from Ebay and they are on sale right now:
Just for the case someone else is looking too.
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Hell, your OD UNIMOG in snow reminds me of Bosnia when we went to the firing range on Igman mountain during the winter... I had a 2to Flat bed UNIMOG with MSA (Modulare Schutzausstaung) with other words it was bullet proof. Men this throws me back in time
I will check shipping options - I´ll send you a PM
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On 5.2.2019 at 5:28 AM, awharness said:
Beautiful machine, how much does the head weigh crated up?
I´ll check tomorrow and let you know.
No matter the weight - shipping is included in the above price!
However - as mentioned above shipping will cost a bit more now since the UPS voucher expired. But it will not cost a lot more I think.
If you are interested I´ll check it again.
4 hours ago, mogwild said:Thanks for the info. I happen to have a winder for one of these.
I'd prefer a whole kit-and-caboodle with a treadle stand and the works, but would consider this one since the price is right and the resto looks top notch. I've had very large items shipped from Germany before without issue, if a person can get it properly crated it shouldn't be an issue (though expensive, to be sure) to ship the whole thing. I'd just hate to break it up from the stand.
The stand has approx 3 or 4 times the weight of the machine - I seriously doubt it will be economic to ship the stand to Canada.
Not sure if I can put the stand on my scale at all but I`ll try.
I would have to use a EURO pallet (120x80cm) as base for the crate because for moving the crate you need a fork lift and / or lifting cart so all that together (stand + machine + pallet + crate and so forth) weights A LOT!
The crate is not the problem (technically) but the insurance / tracking is the problem. When I take paypal I have to ship insured with tracking and I don´t think a freight forwarder tracking is accepted by paypal so the risk is on my side and I cannot take it - so I´m sorry. I cannot afford losing the money so I rather don´t ship the stand.
I can ship the machine head (as offered above) in a custom built crate by UPS incl. full tracking from the minute I bought the shipping label onward - that is no problem at all! But the stand is not possible to ship when I have to accept paypal. I just do not take the risk.
Another option would be a Western Union Money Order but then the whole risk is on your side. Then I would do the work and crate the whole thing and ship by freight forwarder by sea freight. So that is up to you.
Let me know.
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EDIT:
I packed sea freight containers when my unit moved back from Bosnia in 2001 (SFOR) so I pretty much know what I´m doing when I ship things over the pond
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5 minutes ago, Rauni said:
Oh thanks for posting. Is it for sale?
No - I just want to bother you
Yes - it´s fro sale. I ´ll s end you a PM
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I have this part - will post pictures in a few minutes
EDIT:
This is the complete lever w. spring and screw. Parts are original Singer - not after market / Chinese parts.
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When you know you can live with 5mm stitches (I can) and the smaller bobbin keep the Seiko. I personally like these bullet proof "Singer based" sewing machines. They are easy to service (almost all aspects of this machine is covered with a PDF user guide or Service manual or a proper YT video) and parts and accessories are available almost everywhere and often cost a lot less than Pfaff parts (even after market parts). Personally I do not like built in bobbin winders. I prefer external ones.
I´d most likely sell the Pfaff and buy 1 or 2 other machines that could be useful for you hobby or business.
Just my personal "Singer crazy" & low tech loving opinion.
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I would assume your V-belt and / or hand wheel is too tight. Just a guess w/o sitting in front of your machine. If you bought the machine from a dealer just check with the dealer.
Where in Germany have you bought a Cobra 26?
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You get a good motor overview on the KEYSEW website - they have all kind of motors from clutch motors and low end servo to high end servo:
https://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors
this one could probably be an option:
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880€?
Thats a quite good price I´d say. I have no experience with "modern" machines but considering its a Mitsubishi clone (probably just rebranded?) and seems it has a higher class servo (not sure though) with 5 buttons for making settings... I´d say not a bad deal. Looks like 9mm stitch length 
Guessing this comes from a dealer, right?
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Mitsubishi LU something clone I guess
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On my side of the pond you find 3 different measures for V-belts - abbreviation are: LI, LW and LA
- LI = length inner side of the belt (German: Länge innnen)
- LW= datum length of the belt (not sure if this is the correct translation) (German: Wirklänge)
- LA= length outer side of the belt (A = außen = outer suide) (German: Länge außen)
So there can be a difference, but not sure how the official measuring on your side of the pond is.
Just wanted to give this as a hint.
durkopp 241-5S
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted · Edited by Constabulary
Pic 1, 2, 3 - left is the Singer hook, right is the Dürkopp hook.
Pic 4, 5 - this is the Dürkopp hook, the shaft remains in the machine you only pull out the top part. Advantage is is you (usually) do not have to re time the machine. Singer hook and shaft is one piece.
EDIT:
I´m not sure but it could well be that the hooks for Singer 153w machines could work for the Dürkopp 241 - see what I mean - see below link:
https://goldstartool.com/Hook-for-Seiko-CW-7-7B-8-8B-8V-8VB-w-b.c..html