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Constabulary

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Posts posted by Constabulary

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Since the subclass is a rather low number the 29K15 is a very early model and most likely very identical to the 29K4 / 29-4 and similar early 29 / 29K machines. The difference often is just some different accessory and most likely there is no major mechanical difference. Often the accessories that make a difference are gone / got lost over the years so the basic machine often is the very same as more common 29K subclasses with just a different tag on it.

    Please post some pictures of your machine so maybe we can see some differences to other 29 / 29K machines.

  4. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    The needle system for the 45K´s is 328 or 214x2. There are several different leather needle tips available depending on what seam appearance you want to achieve.

    You can download a Groz Becket brochure here.

    They have a YT video as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8HqAFtSPFg

    I run a Singer 45D91 (German made version of your machine but with reverse) and I´m using it for needle size 160 (metric) up to 230 (metric).

     

  5. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    I think so but I only can guess - I assume the Bell Crank Lever is worn down or broke. See parts diagram in the above linked manual / parts list.

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82167-feed-motion-bell-crank-lever-singer-29k412818.html

    OR - there is an issue with the lifting lever.

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82152-lifting-lever-for-heavy-work-singer-29k.html-`

    I'm not sure If I can see it from the rear side.

    The lever should stick out here (arrow 1) and should lift the part (arrow 2) when cranking the machine. Should look like in the 2nd picture (my 29K71 machine).

     

    Bild11.jpg

    IMG_9304.JPG

  6. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    16 minutes ago, gunner100 said:

    BTW what does the plunger do?

    I have edited my last above post.

    clockwise is correct - the plunger engages / disengages the hand wheel when winding the bobbin.

    BTW - here is a parts list and manual for the 29K71 - it is very similar to the 29K58 with just some minor differences. Hope this helps.

    (direct download link)

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=172617

    ========

    EDIT:
    Here is missing a thumb screw.

    Should be this one:

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ss469w-eccentric-thumb-screw-singer-29k.html

    IMG_2989.jpg.deee4e41c9c8ebee24b2e5cc4ec32d84.jpg

  7. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    this plunger knob is missing on the hand wheel of your machine

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/nn98r-plunger-nut-singer-29k.html

    I´m also not sure if the paddle shaped spring on the lower end of the needle bar is present - please check that.

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/46045-8656-check-spring-singer-29k.html

    Above two parts have nothing to do with foot movement but both needed when you want a properly working machine.

    You have not posted a picture of the rear side of the machine and have not answered in which direction you turn the hand wheel. ;)

    Just trying to figure issues before you start removing parts.

     

    ======================

     

    The 180° rotation of the pulley usually is an issue when some one restored / took apart a machine and did not put it back together properly.

    Yes IF the pulley is the issue it is the one you mentioned. It usually is held in place by 2 set screws and 1 tapered pin so you have to figure which side is the narrower end and hammer it out from this end. It sometimes is hard to tell so be careful if you hammer it from the wrong side it will be even tighter.

    However there is also a cam inside the machine that drives the hook (basically) and one on the left side that controls the feed motion ring. So IF someone restored it / took it appart no one know if he put back on the cams the right way. So there is a lot of guessing.

     

  9. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    hard to tell from the videos what is going on. But I wonder why the bell crank lever is seemingly not properly moving. I only can guess as I´m not in front of the machine. Could be that the bell crank lever that is moving the foot is worn or broke.

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82167-feed-motion-bell-crank-lever-singer-29k412818.html

    it is playing together with the feed motion ring.

    https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82053-feed-motion-ring-slide-bar-singer-29k.html

    When the FMR is mowing up and down the BCL is moving the presser foot bar > feeding the material.

    But again please post good clear pictures of your machine so we can see is something probably is out of alignment or missing and straighten the foot pressure adjuster.

     

    EDIT:
    What I also noticed is that the stitch length adjuster is not correctly installed. The arrow on the small squared frame has to point upwards and the gib has to be positioned correctly as well (I´l post pictures later)

    Bild2.jpg

  10. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    Looks like a 29K71 or which one is it? The presser foot looks kinda odd. Has it teeth on the bottom side? The foot pressure adjuster looks bent (see red arrow in picture). Furthermore looks like the stitch length adjuster is set to a short stitch. In which direction do you turn the hand wheel? Have you read the manual?

    Please post good clear pictures of your machine from front and back.

    EDIT:

    you mentioned the bent adjuster already - sry.

    But put everything back in working order before you start adjusting / removing / repositioning other things like cams and so on.

    Bild1.jpg

  13. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    Pre wind some bobbins before you start sewing. There are external electric bobbin winders like kgg has linked above or you can DIY one. I have 3 electric DIY bobbin winders.

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75580-diy-electric-bobbin-winder-singer-111-and-45k-type-bobbins/

    or some other DIY ideas for spool winders or the like :

    https://woolery.com/weaving/weaving-tools/bobbin-cone-winders.html

  16. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    One thing I notice in the video is that your stitch length adjuster is set to the shortest stitch length as it seems. Lower it (longer stitch) and try again. See above linked manual page 10.

    There also is an adjuster for sewing different material thicknesses. It should have the marks H, M, and L (High, Medium, Low) or just H + L. Looks like it is set to the highest foot lift (not sure though). Change the setting to medium or low foot lift and try again. Manual page 12.

    Hope this helps.

  17. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    Adler 220 and Singer 144 share a lot of parts. However the Singer 144 is older than the Adler 220 so maybe Adler "updated" some prats. When Singer was going down Adler even manufactured the 220 for Singer which they marketed as Singer 144A. It´s probably the same as for the Singer 111w which is more or less the grandfather of may newer triple feed machine made by Seiko, Juki and so forth - they share parts but are not 1:1 clones. So it depends....

    What parts are you looking for? Maybe the question in easier to answer this way.

  20. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    A IMO more important question is to ask if he can provide a binder attachment that suits the bindings material you want to use. I guess you want to use a leather tape for biding edges. So the thickness and width of the biding material matters as well as the thickness of the edges you want to bind.

  23. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    IIRC sole folks from Downunder imported one or two of them a while ago. But I do not recall who it was.

     

    EDIT:

    Found some related threads:

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/94574-tsc-441-clone-from-china/

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56853-buying-keestar-sewing-machine-441-directly-from-china/

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/70913-441-clone-factory-name-and-location/

    https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88115-usa-import-of-441-my-story/

     

  25. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

      

    On 3/9/2024 at 2:53 AM, PEU said:

    Today I stitched 6 sheaths successfully, but yesterday while practicing, it got stuck twice breaking the thread.

     

    when heavy thread is breaking it also could be that the hook tip is piercing the thread. A reason can be that the needle bar is set a bit to high (they sometimes raise a bit with the time f.i. when sewing a lot of hard materials or hit a hard spot or the needle plate). When the NB is set to high the hook tip probably pierces the bottom of the thread loop. So I would check the needle hook timing and even when you think it is set right try to lower the NB a tiny bit. Just a suggestion - maybe it helps, maybe not.

    I cannot see when the thread is unspooling in the video. But I would control the travel of the check spring. The travel of the check spring should stop when the needle tip is above the needle plate or above the surface of the material. I guess the the tension unit has a rest for the check spring that can be adjusted.

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