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Posts posted by Constabulary
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If the old grease or oil is gummed apply heat with a heat gun. I also had success with paint thinner (don´t do both at the same time)
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6 hours ago, PeterMain said:
For CONSTABULARY.......this note has nothing to do with the above, but is seems the only way I can contact you. I read in one of your posts that you had a manual on the BUSM A1 machine. I was hoping you may let me have a copy of this. I have an A1 which I restored....have also a BUSM HM6.
My email is: petergmain AT msn DOT com.....or find me on Facebook:.....https://www.facebook.com/peter.main.96.
I have just started a page on Facebook:....Pearson HM6 Group.
I thank you,
Peter
I know I had one but I cannot find it atm - sorry!
my BUSMC machines (A1 + #6HM) are one - its a bit a pity but I have space issues and my main focus is on Singer machines though I would love to have / try out a BUSMC PILOT one day.
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In many cases the machines just differ in small details you would not notice at a first glance. it is often just the feed dogs and needle plates that differ - f.i. - feed dog has coarse teeth instead of fine teeth for better feeding of heavier materials. And the needle plate just has a larger size needle hole to run larger size needles and so forth - that could be the difference for "heavier material". Or machines have a roller foot instead of plain presser foot or are furnished for edge binding operations. Or a different foot lift lever gives the machine a slightly higher foot lift. There are may small details that COULD be different. And keep in mind even when Industrial machines with different subclasses look the same and have the same needle plate and feed dog (f.i.) you never know if one of the former owners / users or even a dealer has changed out parts or altered some settings or not. So sometimes you really can´t tell the difference between subclasses by just looking at the machine.
At Singer 29K machines the presence of an oil / wax cups (for sewing with waxes thread) puts it into another subclass but the rest of the machine is still the same. But a lot of people retro fit a oil / wax so the machine name plate still has the subclass of a machines w/o the oil / wax cup.... You know what I mean?
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Thanks a lot - glad you like it! I no longer own this machine.
It was a lot of work but it really was an interesting project. Especially because of the special hook / shuttle system. I still don´t know why this machine produced a 8.5mm stich length - it really is / was amazing!
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The treadle stand actually is an ADLER 30 stand. There was a motor mount for this stand. I never owned one but have a few pictures. maybe it gives you an idea for a DIY mount or so.
When you have a FS550 motor you can mount it on the underside and the drive belt goes from the motor pulley to the large pulley on the stand.
When you are buying a servo motor similar to the JACK JK-513A you also can mount the motor upside down on top of the motor mount (or bolt the motor directly to lower the machine body) and mount the accelerator unit underneath the mount. This way you can leave out the heavy pulley. Just wanted to give you another idea... Choice is yours
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Sometimes the hand wheel is too tight (pressing against the machine body). The hand wheel usually has 2 set screws and one screw on the shaft end. Loosen them all a little bit and move the hand wheel an bit to the right. Then tighten all screws but be careful with the one on the shafts end - this is often the one that s too tight!
If your machine has a needle positioner you most likely have to remove it from the shaft first.
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Just found this while looking for other things (depth gauge for router)
https://www.ebay.de/itm/303149957400
Could be useful for larger projects. Seems to have a quick release.
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21 hours ago, Pterytus said:
Hey guys,
(Ok, I confess: It was me ;-)
There he is - the inventor
Thanks for jumping in here and sharing more details.
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I´d lower the needle bar a little bit maybe 0.5mm or a little more. I´d also replace the needle plate - looks like this one missed the hardening process.
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the belts are not the point - that is just temporarily
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This is not my idea - the pictures come from German sewing machine forum (I have permission to post them here).
For sure it depends on the servo motor it self but it this is a rather smart idea I think wen you have (space) issues mounting the speed reducer under the table.
What do you guys think of this solution?
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So I have installed a new needle bar guide because the Singer NB is a lot shorter than the original W&W NB. Interestingly the NB guide came from a Durkopp machine and has the same diameter as the Singer and W&W NB. Really interesting how parts pretty much remained the same for decades and that different sewing machine Co´s followed the old W&W / Singer specs. I really love to figure out when parts are interchangeable.
The long tube on top of the NB (see above pictures) was not a NB guide it rather is a dust protector for the NB and had a wider diameter so nothing I could use.
Surprise #3:
You still find needle plates and feed dogs that work with this old 51W machines
While playing with google searches I figured the needle plates of the GOLDEN WHEEL 810 pretty much look the same. So I ordered some cheap sets on Ebay for for testing (hell they are dirt cheap).
This was the 1st set - it fits but needs modification. Feed dog needs an oblong screw hole for height adjustment and the outer ridge of hook is touching the needle plate (remember I installed an Durkopp hook that was not designed for this machine) but needle plate can me modified.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/143143427599
This was the 2nd set I have ordered and it works w/o problems I only had to play with the feed dog height.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/143164778742
Hook works a lot better with this set and yet no modification is required!
Surprise #4:
Damn - there are even hooks for the Golden Wheel 810 / 820 that looks very much like the Singer 111 hook. They have the same needle deflector but no shaft instead they have the same "2 prong mount" as my original 51W hook and the Durkopp hook I´m currently using. So I´ll gave it a try. For less than $10 you can do much wrong.
Hook is on the way already and should arrive within the next few days.
Machine already works good for far... (I know needle too thick)
BTW - I have removed the limiter from the stitch length lever (2nd post, last picture) and I now get approx 5 SPI. with NP / Feed dog set #2.
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yeah - someone definitely tried to "Pfaffirize" it! Not very well done - obviously. I would be pissed too!
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Most likely these machine all come from the same factory in China (Pfaff, Mauser, Typical, Global... and so forth) just with a badge of the specific "Name owner". Pfaff no longer produces these machines in Germany - if that matters. So quality wise I doubt there is a big difference between the "Names" ( I do not say manufactures).
Some pictures would be nice.
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NECCHI is an Italian brand, nothing wrong with it. But before you buy it make sure the machine is fully functional and the reverse lever works as you expect. You may have a hard time finding spare parts. Some parts may be interchangeable with Singer 45K, Adler 4 / 5 or Adler 104 /105 but some like the stitch length lever seem to be very unique.
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I´d contact Uwe through his web shop / website.
BTW - he has a travel note on his shop: Travel notice: Items ordered July 15-31 will ship in August.
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the stitch length adjuster looks kind of odd - the Adler 5 has a different stitch length adjuster. I´m not sure but could be that it has been modified - or - but I have no proof - it could be a NECCHI made machine.
I have a German language Adler 5 manual send me a PM if you are interested in the manual.
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Seiko CH-8
http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/products/chseries/
I have seen them with Singer 45xx or Consew tag as well
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not really a sewing machine. It´s a sack darning machine
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looks like the machine has not been used extensively. Since this is the latest model of the Class 30 with "squared casting" I would not expect serious issues or lots of wear but of course - you never know.
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The 332 needle has 2 grooves , the long has to face left and the short to the right. You can also use 135x17 needles - same here but the 135x17 (or 135x16 for leather) has a so called scarf which has to face right (towards the hook).
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Major different is the gearbox and thread lever regulator other than that ... what Jimi said
Maybe the attached file already works for you. I have another 29K71 - 73 manual / parts list but I cannot compress it enough for uploading.
EDIT:
this is the other one - I uploaded it already:
https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=142508
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The thinner the material the better it usually works for binding edges. There was a special binding attachment for leather strips for the Adler 4 / 5 and Singer 45K but I think its tricky to work with. I have attached a picture from an old Adler manual. I remember LW member JIMI (pretty sure he will jump in ere soon) has shown this a while ago but I have to look for his post.
Or how about thin faux leather strips for binding edges?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neotrims-Faux-Leather-Leatherette-25mm-2-5yards/dp/B01DPTXW7U
MacCulloch & Wallis has a wide rangeof edge binding materials:
https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/c/750/bindings-leather-trims?p=1&q=750&sz=96&me=sz
Hoping for help with my new patcher (Adler 30-1)
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted
Do you have a manual for your machine? If not google it - download it - read it.
Make sure your thread path is correct - I do not see where your top thread is coming from.
I doubt the shuttle is the problem but cannot evaluate the details w/o having it in my hands. If top tension is to high just shorten the to tension spring by 1 or 2 coils. These springs are interchangeable with Singer 29K springs so not a big loss if it goes wrong (for what ever reason).
If you still need a quality shuttle look for TOWA made shuttles - check with your preferred dealer or Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/390524809518
In my opinion TOWA shuttles are the best quality shuttles beside the OEM shuttles. That said - the nicest I ever have seen are the old OEM Singer shuttles. I was lucky to find one in new coition a while ago - haven´t seen anything nicer than this. It looks like chrome finished. However - TOWA relay is excellent.