wyomingcowboy

I know how to adjust the stitch length. It's a little dial on the front. The problem is that even if I don't move it the length still varies occasionally. I will try to do as you have said and see if I can figure it out. I'll have to adjust the tension of both the top and bobbin thread, huh? If I tighten the top thread tension now it just starts to pull the bobbin thread all the way up through the hole. I'm starting to run out of heavier veg tan to practice on!

last one. I know this isn't the show off forum but I'm open to critique/ help/ hints. Especially when it comes to machine setup. Thanks guys!

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Here is my latest project. You can see some stitch length variation in sposts and how I missed the groove in a few places. The machine does pretty good! I just wish I knew how the stitch length gets off the way it does and how to fix it. This is with 207 top thread and bobbin. I got my 138 thread in the mail but have yet to try it out. Not sure I like the white color with this project, but that's another topic......

The guitar belongs to a 13 year old and I'm sure it's a pos for the most part. That being said I don't want to ruin the thing. Hmmmmmm decisions decisions. I would love for him to keep this strap over the years. Even after he gets a steel string Know where I can find a little hook like that?

Could I insert another piece of wood inside the guitar to give a strap button a little more to hang onto?

Thanks guys. I'll make a few adjustments per your instructions and give it a shot with lighter thread tomorrow. I just about have the tension figured for the 2 layers of light chap leather. It's a little inconsistant, but like you say, this machine isn't for the light stuff. It will get the job done.....it sure beats the crap out of hand stitching! I can adjust the tension for the 8-9 0z./chap leather combo pretty easliy and it does a pretty good job. The only trouble I have there is the tight corners and the back stitching. I'll have to use the crank handle more but like I just said....it beats the crap out of hand stitching! The lack of instructions in the ferdco manual is quite frustrating. They made fine machines but they needed to hire a teacher to write the manual!

I'll have the other one up in a minute. According to my user manual, my upper tension is too loose, or the bobbin is too tight. The manual also says that the bobbin tension was set at the factory and should'nt need adjusted. SO....when I back the upper tension waaaayyyyyy off it stops pulling the bobbin thread up through the hole as bad, but the over all stitch is pretty loose. (You can pull it with your fingers) Would this be because the thread is too big/this machine is too heavy duty for what I'm doing? I typically sew 8-9 oz. tooling leather on top of the various chap leathers so the thikness problem would be solved there, but I do double over the top of the leg and sew it to itself (to give a nice smooth looking finish) and that is only 2 layers of chap leather, and I have the problem of the bobbin thread being pulled up through the hole. I have some lighter thread on it's way and should have it by tomorrow. (138) So I'll give that a shot and see how it goes. Right now I have a 277 top thread and a 207 bobbin and a #180 needle. The manual only lists specs for 4 different needle sizes - 250, 230, 200, 180 with the 180 being used for the 138 thread. I don't mind the hole being a little bigger than I need for chaps as long as the stitch is pulled tight..... and right now it isn't.

I'm in the process of uploading some videos to youtube. My internet is terribly slow so it's taking forever. I should have the link up by morning!

I'm not finding the link to upload my pictures....... a little help please!

I have tried Hoffman Brothers and I get the run-around on their automated system. Maybe things will get better with them as the summer ends. I'm not sure what a needle foot jump machine is for sure.....but it is the needle that pulls the leather forward and the foot just applies down pressure. I'll try to add some pics when I figure out how. The only camera I have is my phone and the file size is too big.

Cowperson tack is still up and going. They explaimned to me that they have a weird message that plays when their line is busy and they don't know how to change it.

Thanks. I'll try to tinker with it a little when I get my new thread. I am a little afraid of messing it up too much as it appears that no one will be able to fully fix anything I mess up. The guy I bought the machine from had issues with most of his stitching, too. He bought the machine new in 2001. Funny how a major manufacturer can make and sell a machine like this, include a very crappy "user manual". I ran across a machine dealer at the Sheridan show in may of this year with several Ferdcos and I didn't even think to get a card. I talked to the guy's wife and she said he knew all about Ferdcos and could help me out. Does anyone know who I may be talking about? I think they were from Idaho.

Hello experts! I am wanting to make a guitar strap for my 13 year old nephew for a b-day gift in early August. I found out he has no strap buttons so I called a music store to see if they could add them and they said yes, but not on a classical guitar as they are not designed for them. He said I would need a special strap which they could get. My questions is what does this special strap look like? I did a few google searches for pictures and found nothing. Could I easily make one of these with my limited skills? Thanks, Nate

Well I bought the 6/6 for $700 and got it moved in. (The thing has to weigh 400 pounds....no exxageration) Anyway, the manual I have is not real great as it is mostly parts and there is NO troubleshooting and actually very few part names. The pictures are all photocopies of photocopies. I am having trouble with the stitch spacing. I know how to adjust the spacing adjustment but there are no little teeth or anything to grap and pull the leather so the spacing gets off. I found out today after trying to call Ferdco with questions that they have sold out to another comopany that does not have any customer service set up. Does anyone have any idea if I can get a different foot or something that will grap and pull the leather better? I know I don't want tooth marks on the leather but the uneven spacing looks just as bad. Also, what type (material) of thread is best for chaps? I looked at some online and don't know the difference between polester, nylon, etc. Thanks, Nate

Does anyone know if Cowperson Tack has gone out of business? I sent an email 2 weeks ago trying to get info so I can get signed up as a wholesaler and got no response. I tried to call the phone number off their website (which is still worling) and I get a strange disconnect message from the phone company. I called 580-795-2649 and it rings 5 or 6 times then the automated message says that "the number 580-795-2131 is no longer in operation." I don't know why it tells me a different number than I called is out of order, but it does. I tried several times calling that number eith the same result everytime and Verizon directory assisstance cannot find Cowperson Tack listed in Kingston, OK. I have some customers lined up with and a need for their stuff! If they are out of business, does anyone know of another business similar to them? I am much more intersted in their buckles and conchos than their tack. TIA - Nate

Thanks, Bruce. Do you make reins like these? If you do, where do you buy your harness leather? I got a DVD from Weaver explaining that they will hand pick through their sides according to meet what you need. They are pretty good people there, I think, but their shipping is pretty high.

I looked for my answer before I posted but couldn't find what I'm looking for. I have some heavy harness leather that I cut into 5/8" straps for split reins but now I need to know how to do the fatter, heavier end. I saw a thread discussing actual lead weights but I don't think that's what these are. I have seen this end on nearly every pair of long slpit reains I have come across. To me, it looks like a few thicknesses glued together real good at the end and then skived down to single thickness about 1' from the ends, and then edged nicely, sanded, oiled, etc so that you cannot tell that there are numerous pieces glued together there. Another explanation I could come up with would be that the ends of the rein comes from the neck area of the hide and is therefore thicker. I noticed this when cutting my hide - but my thickness variation is not nearly what I see on most of the other reins. So my question is: How do they get them fatter on just the ends? Will a good contact cement last through all the rough use over the years? ( I have never seen them *actually* start to come apart at the ends. Although, if I look real hard I can almost see the different pieces..... Thanks Nate

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A friend I have is selling his Ferdco 6/6 for $1k. He replaced it with a Cobra and is quite impressed with it! I would like a cobra myself but can't afford it. I have seen the Ferdco run and it seems to be good but I really have no idea on machines and whether it is worth $1k. What do you think?

Should I buff before I try to apply the sheen? I haven't done that. I have allowed plenty of drying time though. My SW Wyo weather has been as dry as ever as well so drying time really isn't too much of a problem for anything!

I have used Tandy's Hi-lite color stain and fiebings edge black on some chap tops and now need to seal it, but when I use the supersheen with a damp sponge as suggested it also wipes away some of the color. Any ideas as to how I can avoid this? TIA