wyomingcowboy

Anyone figure this out? I have an earlier version of the 206RB....not sure if it's a 1, 2, or 3. It looks different than the 5 for sure but the adjustments in MTRC Crane's video are mostly spot on. I am in need of a replacement part(s) and am having trouble with that as well. Any ideas? I contacted Consew directly and they were really no help at all. What I need - I believe - is the called a "Part # 24 FEED ROCK SHAFT CRANK (BACK)" but the problem is that I am looking at a part manual for the 206RB-5 and the part looks a little different than mine. The vast majority of parts look exactly like mine however. I can post some pics as soon as I figure out how to resize them.

Bump!

What weight of latigo do you all suggest for chap front and leg straps? I am hoping to possibly use the side for breast collar liner as well but not necessarily. I am thinking maybe in the realm of 4-6oz.? I don'y want the straps to stretch but I don't want them to be stiff either. TIA

These two pics are a double line border like I want to do with the serpentine. You can see one side is rounded but I'm not so worried about that end as it will be covered with a buckle. But the tip of the belt that has the double lines come to a point that I need help with. (I am NOT trying to put a serpentine on this belt, I'm just showing pictures so you can see the double line border deal I was talking about.) Anyone got any pics they can show me for ideas? Thanks

I am looking for advice on how end my serpentine stamp into a point. I maybe can attach a pic of what I mean later but I'm hoping to see some pics from you guys. I'm making belts and have a neat design I came up with but I had enough foresight to know that I have no idea how to end it! (Or a good looking way to start it for that matter.)

I just bought a stamp from Tandy's pro line that looks very similar to Barry King's "Association" stamp. Does anyone have any pictures they can show of this used in a pattern? I messed around with it a little and am having trouble making it look good.

How abou tthis one: http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/tls/4415725788.html

How about a singer 11w155? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-111w155-Industrial-Leather-Canvas-or-Boat-Cover-Sewing-Machine/271498878092?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22847%26meid%3D7129865314282890611%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9835%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D181415350898&rt=nc How much should I expect to spend on a good using DC servo motor?

Do you happen to have a link for that 111w153? I looked and didn't find it.

I have a bit of a tall order here. I am looking for a walking foot machine that will sew chap leather for rodeo chaps. It is not real thick stuff and my Ferdco 6/6 is definitly way too big for this kind of thing. I believe at most it will be 3 layers of 4oz but it is really soft stuff. If I sew tooled tops or anything I can use my big machine after all else is done. I am looking for something used and under $500 as I only need it for a year or two until I can afford a much better, new machine. A friend of mine has a consew 225 that he uses but says he has to hand crank it alot as it is too fast for the tight corners. What would you guys suggest? I need to be able to find whatever machine used. I have seen the consew 225 occasionally on ebay but not at the present time.

Does pure neatsfoot oil rot in the bottle? I have a quart that I bought a few years ago (3-5 years, I can't remember exactly) and it smells like it's starting to go bad once it's on your hands. It doesn't smell on the leather or sheepskin while it's applied, but only on your hands. Maybe its always smelled that way and I'm just now noticing, but I don't think so

Here are a few pics. You can see the harness leather turned almost sunfaded but it never saw sunlight. It was in the back seat of a windowshaded truck that got very hot inside. The color didn't change until I pulled it out to show off and the movement made it change. I have since oiled and tried to buff a little bit but nothing has changed.

I have to find a way to convert them. I wish this site would allow larger file sizes.....

Anyone?

I made some saddle bags out of some 9/11 oz Hermann Oak russet harness leather that turned out pretty well. I had them in the pickup this July in high 90's temps (out of direct sunlight). When I took them out to show them off they distressed a little where the leather "flexed" or what have you. The color changed and has not returned. I recently oiled them with straight neatsfoot all over. I did this twice and didn't spare much oil. The leather soaked it all up nice but the original colors (heat damaged and all) have returned to be exactly what it was before the oil. I have tried buffing with some artificial sheepskin but the color doesn't appear to be changing at all. Have you any ideas as to what I can do? I like the bags but can't really afford to keep them for myself and I don't want to sell them as is. Ideas? TIA

I don't know what you mean by bull riding rig. Bull riders use braided ropes. Bareback riders use riggins but you had better not try to make one. They are highly specialized and very difficult to make using mostly rawhide. There are currently only two bareback riggin makers in the world, currently. The same goes for bull ropes except that there are many different rope makers out there. Barstow Pro Rodeo Equipment has been around for a long time and are considered the industry standard and would be a great place to start looking. Sorry for the bad news. I totally understand the concern with cost but as far as equipment goes you're much better off paying the money......for safety concerns if nothing else. As far as the other stuff goes - chaps, spur straps, bell straps, etc. there are hundreds of variations. Good luck and have fun!

Update: I had to start all over. We never did get any sun in time so I just cut new pieces and started all over. We did get a little sun the next day so I parked the oiled pieces on the dash in the parking lot for a few hours and it worked out nice. I guess I'll just have to not get into positions like that again. My overall finish was lacking in my mind because I had to really rush things and used hair dryers and fans to speed up drying times. I really would like to say that I won't get into this spot again but I know that's unrealistic. Anyone else have these same issues?

I made some saddle bags out of some 9/11 oz Hermann Oak russet harness leather that turned out pretty well. I had them in the pickup this July in high 90's temps (out of direct sunlight). When I took them out to show them off they distressed a little where the leather "flexed" or what have you. The color changed and has not returned. I recently oiled them with straight neatsfoot all over. I did this twice and didn't spare much oil. The leather soaked it all up nice but the original colors (heat damaged and all) have returned to be exactly what it was before the oil. I have tried buffing with some artificial sheepskin but the color doesn't appear to be changing at all. Have you any ideas as to what I can do? I like the bags but can't really afford to keep them for myself and I don't want to sell them as is. Ideas? TIA

Is there any deglazer I can buy at home depot? I am 2 hours away from the closest leather supply and at least 3 days away if or mail order.

I am having a continuing saga - I can't make my leather match in color. I am using fiebings sheridan brown antique and have a nice chocolate brown color on two chap yokes, but I cannot duplicate it on any others. My biggest problem is that I went ahead and wyo sheened over the lighter pieces already. I need to make them a little darker. I guess I could try to antique over them again and see what happens. I was planning to lay them out in the sun today and see if that does anything but this happens to be one of 4 days a year where there is complete cloud cover and no sign of letting up! Have you any ideas that I can try? I am very crunched for time and don't want to start all over but I guess that is always an option. I have until Wednesday to get everything sewn together and ready to deliver. TIA

You oiled after suntanning? So you put your dry leather out on the sun for awhile? Is that how it's typically done? On this Tandy stuff I oiled it twice and then put in the sun and it did darken up to kind of an almost reddish color. I have since wyo-sheened it and put on HEAVY sheridan brown antique. I'm going to follow up with tan kote and wyosheen.

I am looking for a little bit darker, saddle finish type color for some chap tops. I have been following Keith Valley's instructions for the sheridan brown antique (oil, wyosheen, antique, wyosheen) and have had great results. I really like the colors it produced especially for tops on the chocolate brown chap body. However, I have a customer that wants it a bit darker. I have some Tandy eco antique in medium brown but when I wyosheen first, the antique gel won't penetrate at all....AT ALL! When I use the antique gel first, before any resist it makes the vegtan WAAAY too dark. Anybody got any tips on how to use this stuff that will actually antique, not just stain the whole thing? I'm sorry for the repeat questions here - I'm sure they have been covered before. I also am wondering about neatsfoot oil and color. I hear people say that they ONLY use the oil to color leather but honestly, I haven't found it to color much....it either soaks in completely and leather stays the same color, or it darkens way too much. It is pure. As a little side note - I am finding lots of flaws in this Tandy Veg Tan. I bought a double back on a real good sale about 9 months ago and am just getting around to using it. It is 8/9 oz but varies in thickness pretty drastically, the back needs trimmed on every piece I cut, the colors change from area to area, it absolutely will not case, (either too dry or too wet and will not color up with tooling). I just used up the last of my first side of HO that I got from Sheridan Leather and I will never again buy anything but HO. Don't mean to flame any Tandy fans but I am really dissatisfied with this veg tan. I have almost exclusively bought all of my chap leather from them and am very satisfied with the quality and the smoking deals you can find.....but I am finished with their veg tan.

What is a square drive machine? Also - the mechanisms need lubed. What would you all suggest I use? I'm afraid to use WD-40 or similar as it might not last long enough and I'm afraid oil will drip onto things that it shouldn't be on. That leaves grease. Thoughts?