Ian1783

My new-to-me- Singer 153 W 103 cylinder SM came with what I'll call two "sets" of presser feet. The two sets share the same inner foot, a smooth-bottom foot (middle of photo). The photo shows a set on the left with dual-notched, toothed feed plate; feed dog with dual (split - one narrow, the other wide), toothed feed dogs; outer foot with single, narrow outer toe. The set on the right has a smooth feed plate with single opening; toothed feed dog; two-toed, smooth-bottomed outer foot. And, again, they share the same smooth-bottomed inner foot. I believe the set on the right is for multi-purpose leather work. But what would the set on the left be most useful for? It has that very narrow, single-toe outer foot that appears to have some specific purpose. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Love the flatbed setup, Jeremy. It's things like that that have me more and more able to see the possibilities in my machines. I can doing something like that in the future. I notice you have your machine oriented on its table in a way that mine is not. I've see others do this. I was thinking of making a new top for my stand in order to keep it to as small a footprint as possible in my small hobby room. Though, mine came with a Singer stand and top in great condition, and I don't know that I'd want chop it down. I do plan on putting wheels on the stand. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks Eric. Very kind of you. I do have this one follow-up question regarding the tension release slide. I'm hoping your familiarity with the machine might make you the choice for some enlightenment (Googling this got me nowhere): Just how and where is this piece fitted? On the back of the machine, the tension release lever is in place, and it activates the Foot Bar Lifting Bracket Part # 264526. I believe the Tension Release Slide goes on the large-diameter-head screw that seems to cover part of the lifting bracket. I suppose that, once in my hands, all will become clear. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

And a question about the oil this machine takes: Singer says to use B or D oil. I've been using Tri-flow almost exclusively for my vintage domestics. Is this an option? And if not, just what are B and D oils? Any common substitutes? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks for confirming the availability of a flatbed adaptor, Eric. You mention a part # 240684 - I wonder if you meant part # 240607. I've just compiled a list of parts I need (photo attached): Tension Release Slide - Singer Part # 240500. This thing is in pieces (with a piece or two missing). I can't locate it on the parts diagram. Lifting Fork Singer Part # 240607. Definitely need this (wonder where the missing piece is). Feed Lift Eccentric - Singer Part # 204688. I should get this. Could be serviceable, but I'd rather have it whole. Feed Driving Rock Shaft - Singer Part # 233614. This looks to have had a few threads worth of its shaft broken off. May work, but not adjustable, I think> Feed-dog Cover Screw - Singer Part # 200577AL. Bobbin Case Lever Fulcrum - Singer Part # 203576. This looks to be OK, but it has a slight gouge at the end of one of its "arms" Most have to do with the "bobbin area". Though, I haven't been able to locate where the Tension Release Slide (Singer part # 240500) goes. Nor can I tell just went wrong for these parts to "go". I imagine a scenario where a needle broke, jammed, ham-fisted maintenance person got in there with a fix, things escalated, etc. Are these parts generally available? You mention, Eric, that you have some parts. Are you a resource for parts like these? If so, I'd like a quote, if you'd be so kind. I did find most of them on Ebay, but would rather give my business to those advertising on Leatherworker. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/ imcinnis@comcast.net

I was afraid Eric's comment about the uses he's found for the machine, hemming cuffs, suggested a more limited use than would do for me. The cylinder does seem especially suitable for cuffs. But Jeremy's comment about a flat bed attachment, reiterated by Trox, opened up the machine's possibilities for me. Wizcrafts' information about the required bobbin (I have none) and thread size is, per usual, of the greatest importance to me. I realize this is an old design, and the lack of a reverse renders it less than ideal, but if the costs of parts for repair can be kept to a minimum (here, I'm hoping Bob will be of help), I believe this will be a good next step in my progress toward limited, leather-goods production as an interesting adjunct to my hobby: the maintenance and repair of vintage sewing machines. My first step will be to thoroughly clean and lubricate the machine, and clean and reassemble the table (I am contemplating a new, smaller, table top). By the way, this came with a working (I'm told) 220v, three-phase motor. A little much for me, so, after new parts and adjustments (and hopefully the revelation that this is one superfine machine), I'll do as I did with my Consew (now, regretfully, gone) and order a servo setup from Bob at Toledo. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

So, maybe I'm going in the wrong direction with this. At any rate, I do love a project! Pics show two parts that are broken: the part with the chip out of it seems like it might be serviceable. The other, which operates the feed dog, has part of it broken off. This, I'm sure, will need replacing. More may be wrong here, I don't know. Just getting into it, and lots to learn. I can say that I ran into any number of screws that were rather loose. I figure someone took this apart, did not replace parts, put things back together to keep things together. Note the two different feed plates. The one with dual openings was on the machine with one screw missing. It isn't the correct one (single-opening feed plate is). The machine is from 1962. The overall condition of both the machine and table suggest not too many miles. Machines appears very complete. Photos show it partially dismantled. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/ Jeremy, that's interesting. I didn't know this was an option. A flatbed attachment? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I'll be picking up a Singer 153W103 cylinder-arm machine today and wondered what they are best used for. I'll be using it for simple products in upholstery-weight leather. I have a 29K60 patcher (still need a part or two before it's ready), and hope I'm not moving in the wrong direction with a cylinder-arm machine. I'm still looking for a flatbed compound walking foot. I'm a tinkerer; I mostly love working on the machines, but I have a decent supply of leather and thought I'd try my hand at rustic stash bags, while my wife is looking to make more pillows. By the way, is there an advantage to the long arm of a Singer 29K60 over a short-arm version? Will post pics later today or tomorrow of the 153. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Good for what I'm hoping to do? Small bags and pillows (and other things, no doubt, once I get my feet wet). I'm familiar with many aspects of domestic machines, and I don't scare easily (anymore), so maybe I can make this happen. The seller just said "bobbin area" and pointed to that area. Did take off the cover, or "cuff", but what I saw was still a pretty solid cover. He pointed to the hole in the end. I'll have to Google images of these to see how they work. I think I'll buy. Or at least offer to buy - they may be gone. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

An update: I checked out the machines. I'm mostly interested in a Singer 153 W 103. But it needs parts in the bobbin area, which are quite expensive, from what the owner told me. Though, as he's letting them go for good prices, and this one looks to be in great condition otherwise, I may just pull the trigger and worry about figuring things out later. The other machines, while quite interesting, look to be far too much for what I'd use themr. Monsters! These were a Singer 144WSV36, a Singer 132K6, and at least one Union Special double-needle chain-stitch machine that looked like two sewing machines side by side; one fed the material, the other did the stitching. No bobbins. Upper and lower threads all fed from a spool tree. Very interesting. Anyway. Any thoughts on that Singer 153W103? It needs parts in the Bobbin area. Owner took off the sleeve (it's a cylinder machine) and pointed to a hole in the end of the arm and said " broken parts in there..." Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Just posted on local CL. Nice guy got back to me with these numbers: Singer 144WSV36 Singer 132K6 May need parts (bobbin area for 144W). 220v three phase. I'd swap to servo. Pics show Union Specials, etc. Many look very old, though not abused. Lots of them. Well, looks like he may have as many as ten or more machines. He's hoping for $150 for some (each?) I'm thinking of the 132K6 if it's working, or can be made to work easily enough. Maybe the 144WSV (Special Version?). I'm looking for a walking foot for upholstery-weight leather. I intend to sew pillows, stash bags, etc. I'm heading out to see these in a few minutes (some miles away). Does this look like a treasure trove or a wild goose chase? Hope to hear from someone before I jet. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I'm looking for a base for my 29K60 and wondered if it would fit on the base (treadle) for a 29-4. I have the opportunity to buy a machine with with base, but as it's a 29-4, it's a short arm. I'd keep the base, if it works for me, and sell the machine. But I'm not sure I'd want to break apart the set if they are best together, while that base and my head may be a less-than-perfect fit for each other. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thank you Anne! I did think I'd start out with something lighter, #69 - #92, as I'll be test sewing for a bit, and might find that the lighter thread will work just fine, as well as go a bit further in the 29K's small bobbin. And I very much appreciate your info on an appropriate needle system. I've yet to list all I'll need to order from Bob, but I'll be feeling more confident when I do. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I appreciate your input, ferg. Your comment on "...using a thread that has a gold line through a medium brown. Very attractive stitch." suggests the look I have in mind. But just what is meant by: "DIA" needle, and "TW" or "RTW"? Again, I'll be using a Singer 29K60. And if I use #138 thread, what size needle, and what needle system would I use? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I'd like to sew up to four layers of upholstery leather (16 oz total? Measures about 1/4") where the stitch will be visible. I'd like an attractive stitch, so maybe contrasting a lighter thread against a darker leather, and want that stitch to look like it's meant to be seen (even felt). Nothing radical - and maybe I'm overstating this - but just not a wimpy stitch; something appropriate to the leather thickness and the final product, which will begin as simple "stash" bags and rustic pillows. The stitch won't always be visible, but where it is, I want it looking like it's meant to be seen. By the way, I'll be using a Singer 29K60 Patcher, as that's what I have. I'm hoping to pick up a walking-foot machine at some point, but that's a future purchase. So, mostly sewing two layers (1/8"), but up to four (1/4") at times. What size thread would be appropriate for what I'm looking to do? And what needle size for that thread (given the use in a Singer 29K60). I'm a complete newbie at sewing leather, having only sewn a couple of bags on a Consew 206RB (which I no longer have). I'm mostly a tinkerer with vintage domestic sewing machines as a hobby (not a sewist), but I'm turning my focus to vintage industrial machines that I can use to produce a small, rustic product line (bags and pillows to start). When I have a clear idea of what I need, I'll be contacting Bob at Toledo for some needed parts and the needles and thread. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I've seen this referred to as an oil cup and a wax cup. Used, apparently, for lubricating thread. A member of this site mentioned that it may not be needed due to the improved quality of today's thread. If needed, what goes in it? Oil, wax? I saw mentioned that a felt something or other is used in it. Special part, or any old piece of felt? Saturated or lightly oiled? If not needed, that is, if the thread doesn't need oiling or waxing, can the thread bypass the cup altogether? Or does the threading benefit from its path through the oil cup? Two exit holes in oil cup; does it matter which is used? Inner for "regular" sewing, outer for darning? I image that much is determined by just what thread is used and for what purpose. How is this determined? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks, Bob. I'll add it to my list of items needed (or, in this case, wanted): needles and thread appropriate for lighter leather projects, take-up arm spring, balance-wheel knob, etc.

Gump, are you saying that all the parts are there, just needs to be pulled from the right and placed on the front? I do have the plate on the front (hoto on my blog: http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/ ), it's a blank cover plate. Behind it is the main shaft with a beveled gear attached. Is there a coresponding beveled gear that I can't see on the balance wheel? Or is that a part I have to scout around for? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I've read where the balance wheel on a 29K60 can be switched from the right-hand side of the machine to the front, where it can more easily be used for hand operation. Looks like it might need a part to accomplish this: a gear on an axle mounted on a plate replacing the blank plate that's there. I know some machines (29K70/71?) had this setup. What would I need to make this change? It seems it would be easier to use the machine this way, as I don't want to electrify it, nor do I see a treadle base coming my way anytime soon. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Evan, Thanks for the offer. I won't be able to take you up on it, but thanks just the same. For one thing, your machine and stand should remain together and I only need a stand. I pretty much deal locally, with things falling in my lap, so to speak. I've seen a couple of treadle stands for Singer 29's on my local Craigslist in the last year, and while interesting at the time, I had no reason to pay much attention to them. Now that I've picked up a patcher, I'm hoping another stand will come my way. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com Bob - yes!, I will be in touch. I started another post a few days ago hoping for feedback on just what needles and thread would be appropriate for use with upholstery leather. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48059 Four layers, lightly compressed, equal 1/4". I'm hoping to assemble small "stash" bags (Rayban had a few on his Photobucket site that look to be just what I'd hope to be able to turn out) and pillows, and whatever else occurs to me as I accustom myself to the process. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Here's a link to what the original treadle stand looks like: http://treadlepower.tribe.net/photos/86bc5845-2626-40eb-ad36-bdedfbb2372a I'm hoping to find one for my 29K. You mention that your 29-4 may prove expensive to get working; it seems to me that if it's essentially complete, it can be got working without too much trouble or expense. I'm missing a take-up-lever spring (replaced with some make-do, found-around-the-shop piece of metal), a spool pin (using a screwdriver through the thread spool to hold the spool in place) and the balance wheel knob (not to mention appropriate needles and thread), but managed a successful test sew that gives me hope I can actually use this machine. I hope you too are able to get yours up and running. For me, much of what I enjoy is the tinkering, cleaning, adjusting, etc. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Rayban, What type of stand is that? Looks like it's for a domestic, but the iron-work style has a familiar, industrial plainness. I have a new-to-me 29K60 without its treadle stand and wondered if a domestic treadle would work for it. The 60 is a long arm, so a domestic treadle might be impractical. Yours looks great, at any rate, and I agree, would look cool in any shop. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the help so far! I have test-sewn this beast, and it works! I used the needle that came with it: looks like a ball nose for canvas, etc.? The bobbin held what looks to be upholstery thread. I haven't tried it on leather yet. I'll order needles and thread from Bob before getting down to it. And Bob, thanks again for the hook adjustment diagram! 1944 according to the serial number. I oiled everything - dismantling the needle-bar housing for the most part. I understand the balance wheel can be relocated to the front; just how is that done? Is the "oil well" (I've heard wax is used in that as well) something that's used given the choice of today's more modern threads? I'm thinking 135 X 16 needle system for up to four layers (1/4") furniture-grade leather, with #69 thread and #18 needle. Sound about right? I'd love to find a treadle stand for this. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, so if anyone knows of something local to me (Northern California?), give me a shout, won't you? I like the idea of having this complete, and would like to try treadling. Parts needed: Take-up arm spring (jury-rigged spring attached - works, but...) Take-up arm itself. What I have has, apparently, been broken and brazed. Works, but I'd like to be prepared should it ever give out. Threading wire. I used an item that worked, after a fashion. Want the real deal. Needles and thread for use with furniture-grade leather for pillows and small bags. Balance wheel knob; that on the balance wheel relocated to the front and I'll feel like I can actually use the thing. I'll want a screw/pin that allows the balance wheel to spin freely. It goes into the collar of the balance wheel and allows the balance-wheel locking pin to remain unlocked so the balance wheel spins freely for bobbin winding. Oh, yeah: I need the bobbin winder arm and all that goes with it. Maybe I can use one of my vintage domestic machines to wind the bobbin. Oh, yeah: I need bobbins. Spool pin; mine's missing. Darning tension disks, spring and knurled knob. Might as well go for complete. That's about what I can think of at the moment. Anyway, thanks for letting me share. Fantastic help so far. Pics on my blog: http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/ Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Bob, that's just what I was hoping for! I did find a part to a manual that referred to this adjustment, but it had no accompanying photo or diagram, so I had no idea what it was about. Your explanation and image is just the thing. I'm very confident I'll be able to get this beauty running. I'm sure I'll be making a list of things I'll need from you, Bob. Glad to know I have this resource! Ian SF Bay Area

Thanks for the tips pcox. My son plays guitar - hmm... The coffee can sounds like it would work. I do want to complete this machine, so will want the spool pin, but for a test sew, the can idea gives me ideas that may work just as well. Ian1783 SF Bay Area