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immiketoo

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Posts posted by immiketoo

  1. Posted · Report reply

    18 hours ago, Mablung said:

    immiketoo gave you the solution. Last piece I lined flat got wrinkled as well. I haven’t had the patience lately to try to line stuff on the curve and have just accepted I’ll have some wrinkling. 

    The trade off is if you open the wallet all the way, you might have wrinkles on the outer piece.  It’s a balancing act for sure.  But since they’re closed most of the time, it ok ;)

  6. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

    I’m with Mike also. Slightly damp is much easiest and smoothest if you have a sharp edger. Dull edgers tear, push, and chatter. As far as what type edger - I doubt that very many people have used as many different edgers than me. Each has an advantage - might be lower price, ability to hold an edge, cuts a flat or rounded profile, easily obtainable, pretty or matching handle, or what ever. My number one criteria is ease of sharpening. Doesn’t matter how sharp they come new, they need to be maintained. Sharpening might be on optional skill if you cut with a utility knife, but there are no disposable edgers I am aware of. I want the top and bottom of that cutting edge to be easily accessible to sharpen. 

    Bruce, sharpening all your tools isn’t an optional skill in leatherwork in my experience!  Took me a while to figure that out.  I never considered ease of sharpening concerning edgers but now that you’ve said it, I gravitate toward those that are easier to use/maintain.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Contrary to the above posts, I bevel while the leather is moist.  Not cased, but moist.  You’ll find you get a super smooth bevel provided your tool is sharp and you even get a burnishing effect because the fibers can compress under the pressure of the beveler.   Too wet and it will smoosh out of shape.  I use Barry King grooved bevelers FYI. 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, dikman said:

    That's what I did, I held it under the tap and ran water along where the bend would be and kept trying the bend until it started to fold then stopped the water. There was enough moisture in the leather to bend it but it didn't soak through to the front.

    That’s the ticket.   I use less water than that, only adding a bit at a time.  You can always add but you can’t take away.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    How I handle this is twofold.   First, I pre-curve any leather I need to bend and I try and tool it on a curved mandrel if possible.  (Many times it’s not easy)

    The second thing I do is only add moisture to the inside surface of the holster/sheath.   That minimizes the smushing effect of the fold.  Combine these two and most people won’t notice any distortions.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, BDAZ said:

    Not sure if a wider lace is an option but good suggestion and I'll check.

    Update: I checked and it has to be 1/8th" lace.

    Thanks!

    Another Update:

    Searched for 2mm punches but none available. I was able to laser cut these 2mm holes spaced at 2mmin 3.3mm veg tan. For the actual project I'll may have to clean the char out before lacing but it will be the final stage and the project will already be sealed with resolene. In addition, I'm going to make the holes 2mm x 1.5 or even rectangular slots of that dimension and spaced 1.75mm.  A punch would be an easier solution but this is Plan A if no one has a better suggestion.

    Laser Cut 2mm.jpg

    If you’re looking for 2mm round punches, they are available on eBay.  I have a set from .5 up to 12 mm

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/132674687856?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hZSG3GTuRlm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Nv0ezVr4Su-&var=432001119726&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I may be able to help.  Here is a video about simple eyes.  The best advice I can give other than what’s in the video is to use a modeling spoon to eliminate any hard edges.

    As for the nose, you’re pretty close.  You only need a little more separation between cheeks and bridge of nose junction and to define the nostrils where they need the mouth. Usually it’s a small arc that goes part way under the nostril. Your original artwork probably shows it better.  Below is an example of some of mine. Hope it helps.

     

    3AD37F7E-9396-41D6-995F-4B601E0C784E.jpeg

    3D3CEF3A-9E40-4618-9A70-8BAFB9E9AE24.jpeg

    9C60E494-207A-478E-BD97-1E8463149A1B.jpeg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    15 hours ago, ariannacraig said:

    I want to try painting the back of one of my jackets a nose art design. What sort of paint do you recommend. I was reading a blog where I guy uses acrylic paint you’d use to paint on canvas. Others say you need a leather paint. In the 40s I highly doubt they had special paint for leather. I could and more then likely am wrong on this point but just wondering again what you all would recommend Thanks

    Essentially, all acrylic is the same with the exceptions of the strength of the pigment and the viscosity of the paint out of the bottle/tube.  If you can work with it and it does what you want, it doesn’t matter what brand.  Durability comes from applying the correct thickness(or thinness) of the paint.  Thin paint clan flex, thick paint cracks more easily.  Above I said I’ve found that createx and golden are the easiest to work with, but I’ve had good luck with other mainstream brands as well.  Liquitex in particular is pretty good.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Tugadude said:

    Your workmanship is great as usual, but to me, it is the wrong way around.  I much prefer to see the "accent" panels recessed, surrounded by smooth leather.  I'm sure it is just a matter of taste.  The exposed edges of the croc just don't look right to my eye.  

    I’m not sure how to recess those and be able to sell it to anyone :). The time that would take seem extraordinarily high.  Definitely something to think about.

    I wouldn’t want to just cut the veg tan short and have the croc there so it would require a plug, then a double stitch line similar to a French seam to look right.  Hmmmmm

    4 hours ago, battlemunky said:

    I tend to agree with most of the comments; the workmanship is impeccable as we are accustomed to seeing from you Mike and that the overlay should either be turned edged or inlayed because the edges are the only thing that are even remotely funky. It still looks wonderful and I'd carry that with pride everywhere but I could see with those edges being thin and exposed (especially on the magazine holster) that after getting in and out of chairs, cars, and rubbing on a jacket, etc., that they may roll a bit and become shabby. If it was a trophy case rig, I think there'd be zero issue but if it will be worn/used with any frequency I could see those edges showing some less than "character of the piece" wear over time, not like a burnish kind of wear. The set is a win, no doubt. I really like that mottling in the dye.

    I think it may even be a non-issue if the croc was thicker. It almost needs to be chunkier to be complete?

    Thanks guys!  I don’t disagree with you at all.  You’ve all given me something to think about for future builds like this.  The mottled look is just dye on a piece of sheep’s wool randomly touched.  Simple and effective!

  20. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/7/2022 at 4:30 AM, akguy59 said:

    Those are absolutely amazing. I would be so proud to have made something that cool. Great job. 

    Thank you!  You can do it!

    19 hours ago, PastorBob said:

    Good lookin' rig.  Mighty nice.

    Thanks, Bob!

    14 hours ago, Samalan said:

    NOW THAT'S A NICE JOB MY FRIEND!

    I thank you sir!

    14 hours ago, JayEhl said:

    What's not to feel about it? It looks stunning!  Great texture contrast and would make an interesting piece for conversations.   Definitely needs to go in the next leather crafter magazine! 

    Thank you!  I don’t know why exactly, except for what Bland said above, over all I’m pleased with them.  I probably won’t be writing articles for a while, but if I can perfect it, perhaps I’ll submit it to them :)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, bland said:

    I think I kinda understand why you're not all the way pleased. I think it is the edges.  

     

    I find with some exotics they need to be inlaid to get the clean polished edges. 

    You could try one with the croc inlaid on the reinforcement piece.  

     

    Looks great though.  I'd proudly carry it.

     

    You may be right.  I hadn’t thought of that aspect.  The croc was too thin to edge properly and for the price I agreed on, inlay was not possible, but I’ve just thought of an idea for next time.  I could turn the edges by skiving super thin and it would look a lot better.  Thanks for the comment!

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