immiketoo
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Posts posted by immiketoo
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15 hours ago, toxo said:Thanks for taking the time Mike. It'll have to go on the back burner for now. In the middle of building my hot stamp press at the moment and loving it.
My pleasure.
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11 minutes ago, toxo said:Thanks Mike. I do have an airbrush somewhere but have never used it, Been thinking about getting a quiet compressor for it. I have the smallest of the big boy sprayguns that I have used for dyes with my big boy compressor but that's in the shed.
So, I see it used on veg tan, do you "prep" the leather first to take acrylic?
Do acrylics work on chrome tan or oil tan?
Does each layer have to dry before the next?
What kind of finish to make it "fast"?
On bigger applications like a bag flap etc, will it crack if flexed?
That'll do for now. Thanks again.
The quiet compressors are a real boon, but I used paint brushes for this.
There is no prep necessary on veg tan leather.
Acrylic won’t stick to oil tan. I’ve tried and it cracks or peels in a very short time. Chrome tan is different, but usually it bends beyond the limits of flex in the paint. If it’s flat or doesn’t bend much, it will stick.you do not need to wait between layers if you’re painting with a paint brush and you want to blend colors. If you want to paint on top of that blend, then it needs to dry.
if you’re air brushing, it’s best to let coats dry completely, as it’s a different process, but there are techniques where you mix colors while wet.
acrylic paint = acrylic finish. Other finishes will lift paint or dissolve it.
Acrylic paint has an inherent ability to flex if its thin enough. Thick paints suck at this, which is why I always use pro grade paint. They can be pushed further than cheap paints. The liquids that carry the pigment are superior to craft level paints.
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No, machine stitch for this piece.
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Ask me anything. That’s why I’m here.
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@Toxo, after half a bottle of my favorite, I am fast asleep! Honestly, two glasses of 50-60 proof rum and I’m ready for a nap!
Some will say acrylics are all the same. I disagree. Application, pigment strength and durability all vary by maker. I use Golden hiflow here and createx. There are other great paints like wicked colors as well.
I avoid other brands like the plague, although some do just fine with them, so you just have to find what works for you. I went with Golden for airbrushing ease.
@brewster. Thanks man!
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I’ve made many things out of necessity as well. The concept is usually the most challenging part! Sometimes I have one or two prototypes in the scrap bin before it’s the way I want it.
my only worry is that if you lean on it, the tools will push into your phone screen and crack it?
maybe it’s far enough apart, but I can’t tell in your pics.
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I have recently found a new love for rum. So, I decided I needed a way to keep notes about the rums I love. And hate. There are some bad ones out there that I don’t want to forget about and waste the money.
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Thank you. As to the flap, it is molded around the tool slightly to keep it out of the way yet still provide easy access for opening. Additionally, the tool is also wet molded low into the case with a very snug fit. You can shake it upside down and it doesn’t come out.
maybe if you did hand stands? Lol...Besides, I hate the way those pointy belt end flaps look.
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I enjoy making simple items sometimes. They require both less and more work than complex tooled and colored items.
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On 11/2/2020 at 12:33 AM, fredk said:A comfortable knife, easy on the turn and no wobble, but its the blades that matter really
edit; here is the review YinTX refers to;
You’re right, Fred. The blade is the most important, but you need someplace to hold it
these will accept all major blade makers blades except leather wranglers, which you have to ask them for specifically, but can get.
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On 10/14/2020 at 5:29 AM, thawk8541 said:Great video, thanks for posting it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
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In these images, the border lines were cut after the dividers, then smoothed with a modeling spoon to round them off.
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Seems like this is pretty will covered, but I’ll add this. Part of your problem is that you’re cutting too deeply. These line borders don’t have a lot of support once you cut both sides, and the grain can start to “peel” up on the cut edges.
for the most part, I don’t cut these borders anymore, rather I use a wing divider to score a deep line and leave it at that.
those push bevelers and beader blades are really difficult to control and it’s easy to mess up a piece of leather in a hurry. The wing dividers afford a lot more control, and if you do need to cut them in, there’s a sweet channel to guide your swivel knife.
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On 6/29/2019 at 2:18 PM, Geo148 said:Can you use the liquid Latex over a previously colored as in painted and/or dyed area?
Such as a tooled multi-colored picture Then have the a larger area stained similar to your video.
This is a Back belt /Kidney belt I will be using for Renaissance Festivals. Sorry for the crappy Cell phone pic.
Still have some coloring to do for the shield & helmet. The back ground "quilted area" I will cover with Saddle tan.
I don't want to "muddy" the family crest.
Absolutely. Just make sure you test on a piece similar to your work piece and of course, make sure everything is fully dry.
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On May 17, 2019 at 7:25 PM, plinkercases said:Stunning thanks for sharing.
Do you have someone making the repro weapons as well?
There's guy here in Greece that makes them. Last summer the group we work for gave me a bag of swords and I am steadily working through sheathes for them.
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Its WAY too soft and you risk damaging your knife. You need a sheet of HDPE or UHMW plastic like they use in professional kitchens. You'll be amazed at the difference you feel. You can get a small piece from Woodcraft or you can do a search for restaurant supply in your area.
And, if you have a really sharp knife you can cut right through those mats. They aren't suitable for round knives.
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Nice to see someone else who gets it. I too just bought a half dozen Dieselpunk patterns. I am willing to do this because it cuts down my learning curve significantly, and I get a great product that I can then modify or use to create my own as needed. I am also a member of Nigel's page because he's just so darn cool and filled with knowledge. You make an excellent comparison to tool money.
People buy a lot of tools and then have no idea how to use them
BTW, we can't share the armor pattern as they are the property of the company who ordered the armor sets. Sorry dude
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3 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:Mike, that is really cool. I hope you do get another opportunity.
The armor, like everything you share here, is spectacular. Love love LOVE it.
Is there a real market for stuff like this? Or is it super niche?
And, have you considered making PDF patterns for stuff? I would totally buy some of your patterns. Just food for thought.
Hey dude, thanks a lot. It is SUPER niche. We missed the boat on AC Oddesey because they had to be so secret about it. They couldn't even tell us what it was for until it was too late, but the group is also tapped for a lot of movies, so hopefully it will happen. As for patterns, I haven't ever considered it because who would want one? LARP and SCA folks are not willing to spend the money on full custom sets like ours most of the time and the casual larper probably couldn't make one. I'll talk to the boss though and see what she says
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19 hours ago, Squirrelly66 said:I would like to do some of the greek armor. I'm working on some from assassins creed oddessey. that is a very nice set of armor you've done there
Well, that's ancient greek armor, if stylized quite a bit. Our armor was used in the research for that game and the company we make it for was consulted heavily. Unfortunately, ours wasn't ready in time to be digitized, but hopefully, we'll have future opportunities.
Can't wait to see what you're doing with your set. -
2 hours ago, mikesc said:
You are not eating enough, you are too thin, you look like two sticks, it ( whilst being very nice ) "hangs" on youYeah, the pic of me wearing it didn't load for some reason. :/
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The entire thing is covered in linen. With a few leather trim pieces.
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We made another set of armor, this one from the Mycenaean era. Leather wrapped in linen with some embellishments.
Natalie handled most of this project, while I was hired for my stitcher abilities and as a model :)
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Another way that many people use is to cut square strips and then bevel the edges at 45 degrees. Moisten the strip and roll them on a flat surface with a smooth plank of wood or other smooth rigid item. Apply pressure as you roll back and forth and this will eventually make a round, although its more time consuming than using a rounder.
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8 hours ago, TSes said:Nice. It looks like you combined two tools to make your background.
You are correct. Good eye.
7 hours ago, noobleather said:OHHHHH I really like that.
I love skulls on leather!
What dimensions?
The piece is a letter sized piece of paper. Skull is 4x4 ish?
5 hours ago, kiwican said:Add some flames and you have Ghost rider! !
That’s a great idea!
5 hours ago, garypl said:Mike - the top of that skull looks amazing (whole project looks great, but that particular detail really pops!)
Gary
Thanks, dude.
3 hours ago, spacedog said:Always amazed at how your figures practically jumping off the leather. Very well done.
Thank you.
2 hours ago, YinTx said:Awesome skull! What kind of skull tho? With such prominant supraorbital foramen bones and sans cranial sutures, surely not human?
I like the border work: is it a Barry King stamp?
YinTx
No idea on the skull’s origin, I just made a tutorial of it for a guy on Facebook and I liked how it turned out. Yes the diamond is a BK.
Something NOT simple
in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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Toxo, I have no experience with that, but I don’t think it would be too reliable like that. It’s all about consistent pressure, and you’d have a constantly lowering spray volume.
Balttlemunky, thanks man!