Jump to content

immiketoo

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    2,354

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by immiketoo

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Andrey, after comparing the original picture to your piece I realized what was bothering me.  The top of his head is more pointed in the picture.  Yours is more rounded.  A subtle difference, but it stands out to my eye.  Also, the right side(Viewer's left) cheek crease by the nose has a curve that doesn't exist on the original.  But the other side does.  Its almost as if you swapped those lines somehow.  These are the small details I was talking about the other day.  

  3. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, ABHandmade said:

    :lol:

    Mike, I would like to hear your opinion regarding my attempt to imitate the structure of the skin. Unfortunately, the reflections in the photo significantly mask this effect.

    I hope that after painting it will appear more pronounced.

    Andrey, the skin texture is excellent.  Again, your nose and lips are perfect.  Watch out for the eyebrows.  It looks like you made indentations for the hairs as opposed to raising them up.  Its a lot of work to raise them but its worth the effort.  

     

    7 hours ago, battlemunky said:

    I heard it @immiketoo.

    I'm just glad you didn't choose this pic of Mr. Connery @ABHandmade:

    o-SEAN-CONNERY-ZARDOZ-900.jpg?1

    I lol everytime I see this one. Sorry to detract from your rather awesome embossing Andrey!

    Wow...that I have never seen!

  9. Posted · Report reply

    44 minutes ago, nrk said:

    not agree - experience and simple tests shows a great difference between regular (spirit) dye and a pro (oil) dye - both fiebings

    agree with coverage and evenness of oil dyes - they a very pleasant to work with

    Just so we’re clear, there is no oil in oil/pro dye.  According to the Fiebings rep I spoke with a few years ago the only difference between the two dyes is the quality of the pigment.  You’ll get a lot less excess dyestuffs on the surface of the leather, hence the more even color, but both are alcohol based dyes. The chemical composition is identical.  MSDS will show this as well.  

    Its is an urban myth among leather workers that oil dye has an oil base. This is simply not true and it is specifically why Fiebings changed the name to pro dye.

    youre experience may differ, can’t say why that is, but it’s not because of any oil content in the dye.  Hope this helps.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    12 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

    You'll get "answers" on this to no end.  Stand on your left foot looking east in the morning, they'll tell you :rofl:

    But yeah, I thin about every color - including the "pro" dye - on all but the darkest browns and black.  And I thin it with the thinner made for that.  A quart goes a long way, unless you're dip dyeing saddles ;)

    Not sure what you had in the oil that caused the smell -- neatsfoot has very little smell.  I don't use it on everything, but where I do use it I use it AFTER the dye and sparsely applied.  Light coats.

     

    Maybe neatsfoot compound?  I had a can of that it smelled pretty bad.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hey, Iris.  

    So, pro dye wont work any differently in regards to stiffness, but you will see a noticeable improvement in evenness of coverage, depending on how you're applying it.  I think that if you're making the leather stiff, you're applying it too heavily.  This is a very common occurrence with dip dyeing and heavy application with a dauber.  Its better to sneak up on your color with a few lighter applications than one heavy one.  Easier to control and more even results.  BTW, blue is one of the most difficult colors to use, apart form purple which is the worst.  

    As for oil, there is a great debate on whether or not its needed.  Personally, I don't think it is.  Maybe for saddles and horse tack, but for most things its simply not needed.  People slap that crap all over their projects and then wonder why it looks dark or splotchy.  However, I DO oil lightly between coats of dye when I use an airbrush because it helps set the previous color and helps the new layer absorb better.  Buddy of mine gave me that tip and it works great on fades.  Airbrush can be very topical and anything to make it sink in more helps.

    The type of alcohol you use to thin your dye can affect stiffness, so I recommend denatured alcohol.  That's what is in the dyes, and its the best for the pigment as well.  Other kinds will work but your mileage may vary.  Lastly, the type and thickness of the leather makes a difference as well.  Thin leather will get crispy pretty easily while thicker leather maintains its suppleness longer.  The alcohol in the dye affects the fillers in the leather, fats, collagen etc., so the thinner the leather, the lighter the coat should be.  

    If you can't avoid saturating the leather, replacing some of the suppleness with oil will help, but you must account for the change in color when you dye or it will be darker than you intended during dyeing.  My suggestion is to look at the method you use to apply it and experiment with others until you find what works best for you.

     

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    1 minute ago, hwinbermuda said:

    I find it splits quicker than real....

    Hang on a minute, that means I would have to replace it more often, so I would need more bottles opened. I like your thinking.

    See?  Silver lining!

    1 minute ago, zuludog said:

    Some of the composition or synthetic corks might be a bit too hard and blunt the awl, so the safest way is to stick with genuine cork

    Of course, you will only find out which you've got when you've opened a bottle.......

    Guess I'll have to start buying better wine...:P

  14. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, zuludog said:

    While you're spending money, you should get a round awl, aka a scratch awl, they're not very expensive

    As the name implies, it is used to mark out a pattern on the leather, and also in back stitching to enlarge stitching holes without cutting the thread that's already in the hole. Then flatten the stitching with a mallet or a cobbler's hammer, and the holes will close up again

    Protect the tips of the awl blades with wine bottle corks;  proper cork, not plastic. Oh, the things we must do for our hobby!

    What's wrong with faux cork?

  15. Posted · Report reply

    The only way to do it is to pick the darkest piece and then match to that.  I'd start by stripping the finish with deglaze, then airbrushing walnut dye diluted 50/50 with denatured alcohol on a discreet area of the armor until you got close to the piece you selected to match.  Don't math it exactly or it will be too dark when you add the finish.  It may take some trial and error on pieces that can't be seen.  You might also need to use a different color for different pieces.

    Ultimately, dark colors like chocolate and black may be your only options for making everything look the same.

     

    Good luck.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    If I were you, I would wait until you can afford a better model.  There are so many options out there that if you don't need it, why get one form Tandy.  I'd look at an old Osborne or the like thats been refurbished.  You'll be much happier in the long run.  Brucejohnsontools.com usually has a great selection.

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    5 minutes ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

    Having it all beforehand doesn't always mean too much.   I started my business years before I knew my ex-husband, and he still tried to take it when we split.  It cost me a pile of money to keep it.  Dirty lawyers are the only winners in a deal like that.

    This is true, but it's a lot better than buying it all during the marriage.  I'd burn it before I'd let it go.  Lawyers suck.  

  19. Posted · Report reply

    19 minutes ago, Matt S said:

    @GeneH The Osborne 43 isn't too terrible for £10 (probably $10 Stateside).

     

    You might also want to invest in a packet of John James harness needles. They're probably the cheapest top-level professional tool you'll ever buy.

    Truth.  If you're clever, you can easily modify an awl blade from a stock company like Osborne.  Good needles are a godsend.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, fredk said:

    As leather workers we revel in  OAKs - One of A Kind. To make two or more items exactly the same we rebel, and work slower. Allow some 'improvements' or variations into the copy items and each becomes an OAK. Look on each as a single item and you'll work that bit faster

    just some thoughts

    That's a good way of looking at it!

  21. Posted · Report reply

    On November 16, 2018 at 5:19 AM, ScoobyNewbie said:

    Ah, I see it now.

    oh! I was thinking Dionysius. With his wild women. My head just wasn’t in the right pantheon. Lol 

    Between him and Bacchus, its nearly impossible to get it all straight.

    7 minutes ago, nrk said:

    looks cool man

    Thank you kindly!

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I have all kinds of awls.  Leather Wranglers, Douglas, Osborne, some custom ones and the best by far for most of my work is one made by Lederlouis in Switzerland.  You can buy a prepared blade or a complete awl.  He is a master at shaping them and they make the neatest hole and are easiest to use.  I opted for the 45mm complete awl, but if you have a haft waiting for a blade, get just the blade.  

×
×
  • Create New...