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suzelle

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Posts posted by suzelle


  1. Gregg,

    Since I've decided to sell the machine that I was trying to find a 3/4 sized motor for, I will pass your information on to the potential buyer of the machine.

    Thanks so much!

    Yes, this is correct, Family motors I was getting in with the switch on the face of the motor came in as model FESM-550N.

    The Family motors with the external switch we have come in with a FESM-550S.


  2. Tor,

    Thanks for your reply. I agree, you should buy from a Dealer you trust...Problem is, we are so very far away from any real Dealers. So, distance is my real problem.

    You really have to really think it through when travelling long distances with a 70-90 pound sewing machine head in the car. Yes, I strap things down, but still. Yikes!

    Travel and/or shipping is an added expense when you are not close to a good Dealer.

    Wow, that is a lot to spend on the high end motor! I guess I'm not your high end Customer yet, but more of the "low end". I hope to someday be a "high end" Customer, and perhaps my new/used Pfaff will help me qualify later. :) For the time being, I'm low budget and that makes me low end. LOL

    I have another machine I purchased new less than 10 years ago and it wasn't running. It just went to the shop for repairs (this machine is equivalent to Consew 206) and now it is stitching perfect again. I've got a limited budget for it which I quickly exceeded and I am trying to decide if I should buy a brand new motor or just keep using a portable motor by Sailrite. This portable motor is for Industrial machines. The horsepower is nearly half of what a full sized 3/4 HP motor would be, but this little motor seems to have plenty of torque and a variation of speed from slow to medium that would make most people happy who are sewing leather or vinyl.

    I'm very pleased to have found a wonderful Industrial Mechanic nearby, but they cannot get me the parts that I need, or the motors. If they could, I'd buy from them in a heartbeat and pay the price they ask, just like I did when they repaired two machines for me. I am glad they are close by. But they deal in Domestic machines, so they don't have access to the kind of parts I need for these machines.

    Because I'm about to sell the lower end machine, I have given much thought to what a potential buyer might want. Probably I should just leave the little motor on it so it can some test sew outs, then let the new owner decide what to do.

    I now have enough good information to give to the potential buyer of the machine, including what is mentioned in this thread. Thanks to you and everyone who added to this thread. Great information! Thank you all.

    -Suz

    Suzell,

    Thats Chinese sewing machine industry in a nut shell, same product with 1001 different names. You must buy from the dealer you trust, or based on this forums knowledge and feed back.

    A high end Japan or German system motor will cost you from 600 to 1000 $. You cannot expect a 100 to 150$ motor to last forever. I use mostly German Efka motors. However, I have one Cobra digital 600 W servo motor and it works fine. It very similar to any other motor that looks like it. They all (almost) have had some issues with the speed control, but its been corrected on the Cobra now (and perhaps many others).

    Do a forum search on it and you will see what I mean. I do not know much about older Chinese analog motors (I never bought any). I heard the speed control are good on them, but some of them might be a bit to weak (400 Watt). The later digital motors are stronger, but do not have a good speed control. They uses an light switch. (A proper digital speed control is expensive) The digital 600 watt is more than strong enough for an upholstery class triple feed. You can even find them stronger than that. Some of them might have a faulty speed control, some are fixed. If Gregg offered me a good motor, then personally I would trust its good.

    Good luck

    Tor


  3. Gregg,

    I have really been studying servo motor vs. clutch motors and although the cost is somewhere between $105-$150-ish, I want to make a good choice and not buy a motor that will quit on me long before it should, like my servo motor did.

    So, can you please tell me what exactly the "S" means? Is that for "Switch" or for something else?

    You seem to be the only Dealer offering this particular servo motor with an "S" on the end of the model number.

    Do I really need to have the illuminated switch? Does it make the machine run better somehow?

    I have found other motors that have either a similar number, similar look, or both... such as:

    NKS-5500 (Nick-O Sew) Great Ebay Feedback, & They will sell to you over phone too.

    FESM-550 http://www.zamirsew.net DC Motor, 3/4 HP

    FESM-550N (Allbrands) I have purchased from them in the past, Very Satisfied.

    I'd be happy with a clutch motor too, but still considering a servo again, reading what people have to say who owned them or who have owned them.

    Please advise, if you can. Much appreciated.

    Thanks so much.

    -Suz

    The entire concept of the 500GR is that you don't need a speed reducer...so much for that I guess. BTW...speed reducers work great even with standard cluch motors, and give great low end torque and great low end speed control.

    And yes, the Family FESM-550S ( "S" is the one with the external, illuminated switch) is a fantastic motor. I'm quite sure this is the one Wiz is talking about.


  4. Hey Tom, thanks for that info!

    Kinda funny, my hubby was telling me that this morning when he called, something about a product he knew of that could secure the screw temporarily, must be the same stuff. He orders all the machinery and parts for a large food processing place. I'd never heard of it before. He didn't give me the name of the stuff he was speaking about, but I bet it is the same stuff.

    I did have a temporary solution though, pulled one of the bobbin tension screws off a screwed up bobbin case that was used on one of our SWF Commercial Embroidery machines. I save them, even when they seem messed up, you just never know when you need a part off something like that. The big screw on that bobbin case was the perfect width, although a little too long and protrudes a bit inside the Pfaff bobbin case. But I think we can grind it or sand it down.

    Thanks for the idea, I'll have to tell the "hub" how smart he is! : ) I will let him know a Seamster agrees!

    Oh, Thanks to Sunnyside Scott too, who sent me a helpful personal message on what to try for timing. Thanks Scott!


  5. Machine is now running perfect! I made some of the adjustments, got some help on how to do some things myself. I got it to sew a perfect stitch, then it kept going back to how it was, not stitching! Discovered the main problem had to do with needle bar and screw, but it still needed a real mechanic who knows more than me!

    So, I called around a bit and discovered that we have a new mechanic at a local sewing machine shop who can also fix Industrial machines. So, got very lucky there. That shop hasn't anything other than Domestic Sewing machine mechanics for a long time, so I am really glad they will do the repairs. They are so close to me. I took a 2nd Industrial machine in to have it adjusted too, and they are already done with that one. Gotta go pick it up. Then I'll have 2 running Industrial machines... A Pfaff 545 H4, and an Econosew 2060AL.

    The Pfaff 545 machine is running really great now! However, the bobbin tension screw gets lose and I suddenly lose tension while sewing, creating a wavy stitch at the back/bobbin thread. I'm still trying to find somebody who can sell me some Pfaff screws, as that one and some others really need replacing. The shop I took it to can't get Pfaff parts, so what I had for screws were left in the machine. I'll keep searching for someone to sell me Pfaff parts.

    So thrilled it's stitching well now! Yay!


  6. Congrats on the Consew! Nice machine, a real Work Horse!

    Thought I'd chime in, as I am going through same thing, trying to decide if I should get Servo Motor to replace my first Servo that I bought new and it was a bad one. It was a Reliable 3000 Sew Quiet, and it quit shortly after buying it. I know it is unusual, based on what I have read that other buyers of the same motor have written. But anyhow, it happened!

    So, I found this one:

    New Nick O Sew NKS 5500 110V Servo Motor Best Quality | eBay

    I don't know how it compares to what else you are looking at, but looks to be 3/4 HP.

    Let us know what you decide and how you like the motor you end up with. It's a hard choice to make and I agree, can be confusing.

    Good luck!


  7. Gregg,

    Good info here, it is clear now. Thank you for explaining further. My Pfaff 545 is new to me, so I am learning all about it. I've been confused about why I got both the 190 system needles and the 135x17 needles with my machine. But previous owner passed away, so that answer wasn't given. However, a friend who owns a Pfaff 545 (standard lift) told me that although my machine was the High Lift, it would use the same needles he was using.

    To get the right answer I had to call a couple sewing machine shops and was told that the machine could be adjusted for either. Got some feedback on forums too and seems it is true. Thank you for confirming that yourself, it does help.

    I wanted to use 135x17 needles, as I am finding the longer needles to deflect and break more often. But as you mentioned, this can cause more "variables" and I have enough to learn and worry about already.

    So, now I'm really wondering if this machine is for me. I'll work it out and make a decision to get it running right and use it, or trade it for something that makes more sense for what we need a machine for right now. Right now, we just need to sew the edges of vinyl banners with a machine that won't have an issue sewing them. I'm thinking that perhaps this Pfaff 545-High Lift is way too much machine for the job.

    Thanks again!

    Suz


  8. Gregg, regarding your comment about the Pfaff 545 H-4:

    This info you gave is true, but not clear, because there is more to it than that. The Pfaff 545-H4 will take either the 190 needle or the 135x17 needle. I don't know about other machines, but this is the case with the Pfaff machine that I have.

    Just to be clear here;

    From the factory,

    Pfaff 145/545 take a 134-35, BUT take a 190R system needle for high lift machines, such as a 145-H4, or 545-H4.


  9. Hi Ralph, I just sent you off a personal message about an hour ago, then I see this post from you yesterday. Thank you!

    Yesterday, I found the perfect instructions on how to move the needle bar down, which I did do. Now the machine stitches, but I will need some parts. Thankfully, they don't look to be the real expensive parts, so I may get away with an inexpensive repair.

    Thanks again Ralph!


  10. Wow, this sounds similar to what is going on with my Pfaff 545, old machine but newly acquired. It's normal needle is the 190, but it came with 135x17 needles too. I wondered why. A friend came to help me and put a 190 needle in, dropped it down a bit in the needle bar (we did not move the needle bar though as I'm not sure how to do that yet) and the thing started making a stitch. So, there is hope for this Pfaf 545. I may not have to take it to the shop.


  11. Hi All,

    Sorry I hadn't posted for a while. I had problems signing in to the forum and recently updated information so I could log in again. I'm a little challenged in many areas. LOL!

    Anne, Thanks for your advice on the 31-18 and 31K47. My reason for thinking I might want to move from 31-15 to 31-20 (I think) was because I read that the 31-20 had the larger bobbin. The small bobbins drive me nuts when I am using thicker thread, they simply run out too fast and that is very aggravating when you are in the middle of a seam on a canopy cover or something big and hard muscle around to sew. You want to get it right the first time and with a big bobbin, I just check it every once in a while to see how much bobbin thread I have left. With small bobbin, I usually run out before I think to check. :)

    Jerry, congrats on your 31-15. Hope you got her running! So I will look for your posts now that I am logged in again. Do you plan to use it for garment construction, quilting? If so, your small bobbin will probably be just fine. These are such beautiful machines, and they run so well.

    Wizcraft, sounds like you and your 31-15 are very well acquainted. I was too easily drawn to this machine because I learned on an old black Singe 201 machine and the 31-15 felt so much like it. But it just didn't do all I needed it to do. Thanks for sharing your experience though. If I had enough space for all the machines I wanted, the 31-15 would surely be in the lineup. But space I am lacking, so it had to go.

    After I got this machine running and looking better, I decided to sell it because I simply needed reverse and a longer stitch, and a bigger bobbin. What I mainly need a big Industrial for is for hemming 60" wide banners that we print, they are made of vinyl. I put about $100.00 more into the 31-15 than I got back out of it, but I feel good that I got a nice old machine running and in service again. The woman who purchased it was thrilled and she got a steal of a price from me!

    My Tacsew T111-115 machine was also sold. This machine and the Singer 31-15 were running well when I sold them. I ended up getting a Pfaff 545 High Lift, it is an older machine, made in West Germany. This machine will better suit my needs, but it isn't stitching well, yet. I have to learn more about it before I can adjust it. If I cannot do it myself, I'll take in it to get a mechanic to make it stitch better. Anyhow, it will be able to handle all the stuff I do, and give me reverse, big bobbin, long stitches.

    Thank you all for your input!


  12. I have one of these Tacsew machines. I also have the Econosew 2060AL. Both machines have been great, hard working machines for the money we have into them and well worth it for us. I have sewn on lots of Juki machines and Consew too. When I bought a commercial machine of my own I bought what I could afford to take on my own commercial sewing jobs. I do not regret my decision. Sewing machines are tools and if you make the very best use of them, you can do some amazing things. Maybe the Tacsew or Econosew won't outlast some other brands, but they may get you through for a time.

    We bought the Tacsew used for $225.00, replaced a few inexpesive parts in it, and it's earned it's keep. I think if you can find one for a reasonable price in good condition, do it. If you think the offer from the current owner of the machine to help you whenever you need help makes it a very good deal, then by all means do it! It is not always easy to find someone who can come help you in your shop, or someone local who is so willing. I'd do it! Move up to another machine if it is not all that you want.

    I'm sure that I could get double my money back out of the Tacsew if I were to sell it, have had a few offers for it when I was not planning on selling.


  13. Talk to Bob at Toledo about parts.

    If you have to replace the needle plate then replace the feed dog as well.

    If the bobbin will not stay in then the pin it mounts on may be worn - this is a very high mileage machine- so talk to Bob.

    Do not pay to recondition the motor. Buy a new servo motor.

    Darren,

    Thanks so much for the response, I do appreciate it!

    Got her running yesterday after spending most of the day playing and used only a couple of the parts purchased. At least I had everything on hand. Lots of things needed to be unstuck. The little pin in the tension knob was almost glued in. I had removed that, cleaned it all nice and shiny, put that back together and re-installed it. Then I was getting good upper tension.

    The bobbin that kept popping out wasn't helped I'm sure by the thread wrapped around the end of the bobbin post. Also, the bobbin finger wasn't being held in by the little piece that is supposed to hold it in place. I replaced that little part from another shuttle race, then had to do a little fancy bending of the top of that part in a vice grip to get it to do a better job of stopping the finger. That worked!

    I sanded down lots of rough edges wherever I found them, if I thought that it might snag thread anywhere. A thread tree or commercial thread stand was added, looks like it never had one installed. Bobbin winder was adjusted to work.

    My needle stash included boxes of various sized needles I'd inherited when I bought a Bernina 217 a couple years ago. Those needles worked just fine in this machine.

    Most of the newer clone parts that I purchased did not work so well. So, that is why I made the decision to just fix the old original parts if I could. They all fit better. As much as I would have liked to have the brand new parts, why replace the old ones if they are made better and if you can get them to work somehow? The needle plate I purchased really needed replacing! I believe the replacement I bought is a real Singer part. It does not say SIMANCO on it, but it does have a Singer part number on it and the metal feels like the older machined SINGER parts.It fit perfect, just like the original needle plate, and it looks like the previous owner of the machine had already replaced the feed dog, so that is new and didn't need replacement by me.

    Didn't have to fuss much with timing, got lucky there! I replaced stripped screws wherever I had replacement screws on parts.

    So happy! This is one smooth running machine. I decided to keep the motor in. Upon closer inspection, not as scary as it first looked. Yay! But I do have a couple motors laying around that I could use to swap the old one if need be. I agree on servo motor recommendation though, I had one of those and loved it, but unfortunately it gave up the ghost early! Since the Singer 31-15 head lifts out of the machine so easily, I'd really like to get a treadle base too, that way I can work it the old fashioned way when I feel like it.

    This is going to be a really fun machine. Incredible how many layers I could get through it without skipping a stitch. I did of course switch needles as I went with thicker layers of materials. It even sewed through the bill of a baseball cap. Although I don't plan to use it much for work as heavy as that, at least not on a regular basis.

    If I could have the things I really wanted added to this machine, I'd go for longer stitches, as I like to use a long stitch when making aircraft covers or boat covers. Keeps the needle penetrations down to a minimum, so less chance of water getting inside the canopy covers. Also, I'd like a jumb size bobbin, or at least as big as the 31-20. Haven't seen one yet, but if it's close to jumbo size, I'd be happier. Oh, and reverse!!! I can use the "0" setting effectively for locking in stitches. But sometimes I just like a back tack!

    Okay, there! Maybe Santa will bring me a 31-20!!! LOL! No, no more machines!

    Thanks for reading!


  14. She's a damsel in distress and her parts are all a mess! LOL!

    Meet the new COWGIRL! Our new Singer 31-15. Manufactured in 1937, I think!

    She moved in with us last week and I'm so happy she's here!!! But she doesn't do a darned thing around the place to earn her keep! She's got issues, but we are going to get her all fixed up and she'll be singing again very soon!!

    I'm hoping you experts that have gone before can help me out once the new parts arrive. This is a list of what is wrong:

    I cleaned her up already, and filled up a trashcan with dirt soaked rags. Boy was she every a dirty girl! Cowgirl decal added after her bath! : ) I'm not planning on painting her, I like her just the way she is, a little broken in! She has lots of character.

    1- Needs complete race and new hook

    2- Needs new needle plate - the one installed is pretty beat

    3- New tension know coming, just incase! Not sure if the one I have is good or not yet.

    4- New Bobbin already purchased, but it will not stay in, keeps popping out.

    5- Will probably need to have the motor all reconditioned and rewired. It looks very cute with the sewing machine, but it doesn't look too safe with some exposed wire, and it's pretty crusty cording.

    Thanks ahead!!! Parts should all be here this week some time.

    I'm about out of sewing machine oil too! Gotta get some of that.

    Okay, that is about it for now and thanks for taki'n a peek!

    post-36974-0-71584000-1354706942_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-56720500-1354706953_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-40701200-1354706968_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-38071100-1354706976_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-79246100-1354706985_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-93001200-1354706996_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-34326800-1354707008_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-32839100-1354707023_thumb.j

    post-36974-0-64673900-1354707034_thumb.j


  15. jfhspike,

    Thanks so much for sharing your experience here!!! Thanks to all who answered the questions too!

    My new sewing machine is a 1937 (?) Singer 31-15, and I have to get her up and running. So wish me luck! This is my first post here, I just joined and am excited to be part of this group!

    Have a great day!

    -Suze

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