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PcCowboy

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Posts posted by PcCowboy

  5. Posted · Report reply

    First of all I only oil one side of the leather. I use a piece of wool skin to do this. Any veg oil will do, but I like peanut oil for the color. A veg type oil will soak deep into the leather and not leave any residue to get on the customer pants. Rub in oil. The color will be dark, but over a few hours it will soak in, smoothing out the color making it even over the whole surface. Reapply if you want it to be darker. The more applications the darker it gets. The first application will make it a golden color. (of course this depends on the brand of leather)

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Adler needles are hooks. Those are what I use in my handles (red handle)with no problems. A package of 10 are like a little over $10 at Weavers. Or get them one at a time at "Panhandle Leather" in Amarillo Texas.

    Boy did I make a mistake on this. The Adler does not have a hook needle. I was thinking about my old Union lock.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Can someone explain how you stich the cantle with a hook needle. I always do it with an awl and 2 needles but I´m curious how it´s done.

    It's like welting a boot. Make a hole, pull the thread where half is on one side and half on the other. Make another hole, stick in the hook grab the thread and pull it out the other side without pulling all of it. Pull just enough to make a loop. Pull the thread on that side thru the loop. Now pull the loop back to the other side of the cantle, stopping about the center of the work. Then do it all again pulling everything tight as you go alone without pulling the loop out of the work. Hope this word picture is understandable.

  12. Posted · Edited by PcCowboy · Report reply

    I do just like Bruce does. The left one will "grow" if you don't stretch them. I do a lot of repairs and it is pretty common to see the left blevins set on a higher hole than the right side on factory saddles. I have seen almost 2 inches difference between left and right leathers.

    Stohlman does touch on this in volume 2.

    CW

    Problem with factories is that they believe if the leather is big enough, it good enough to use. I have seen them use the belly to cut out leather and fenders. Every saddle part has a place on a side of leather that it should be cut from. All my fenders and leathers come right from the back. I have never seen any that came back with stretch in them. One other thing I do. I assemble them with a 1/4" gap between the leather and the bend in the fender bottom. That way the leather is taking all the weight without any on the fender.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Try being a saddle maker. Everyone around me charges around 3500-4800 for a saddle. I don't believe in trying to get as much out of a customer as I can by nickling and diming him to death. So my base price for a saddle ready to ride has been $2850. Then one day a guy came in and said that he noticed that I had the lowest price custom made saddle around this area. What was wrong with them? So I went up to $3000.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Though I don't do holsters (Hey, other topics interest me too :)), I pretty much did the same. I did a LOT of market research and found that comparable items with equal quality were selling for a certain price range. Eventually I found that a straight hourly rate was pretty accurate at getting that market price and still pays for material. I do mostly guitar straps @ $20 per hour. With the cost of material, I usually come out at about $18.50 per hour. That hourly rate matches MY speed right now. As I get faster in my work, my hourly rate goes up as the time to completion goes down, keeping the price the same. One thing that really drives me nuts is crafters who under sell their work just to be able to sell stuff, which you'll see a lot of doing your own market research.

    When I started saddle making back in 92 Wilford told me I needed to get $25 an hour for repair and hand work. That what i have been charging for the last 21 years.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Here are photos of some of his work. I don't think I have to point out his mistakes. Oh, that front is covered with garment leather with the leather folded to fit. And his new age idea is a one piece back housing, jocky seat combo. He also wants the ground seat to go down pass the edge of the bar 3-4 inchs and then sewn to the skirts. And don't you love his horn cap. As he said "no sewing needed"

    post-39369-0-21234200-1370030485_thumb.j

    post-39369-0-75496100-1370030487_thumb.j

    post-39369-0-73809900-1370030490_thumb.j

  24. Posted · Report reply

    That's a "Small" portion??? WOW!!! The guy's obviously subcontracting you and trying to run a business without a license/tax Id (he makes several points toward the end there that are obvious that he's making them for other people). It's also clear that he knows more about leather than you do (in his head). These are big dollar items and he's in over his head. I'd just get the lawyer involved now to CYA.

    Well he did tell me that he was going to write a book and film a Documentary on Saddle Making since no one has been making them right since the 1800s

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Here is a small portion of what I had to go thru. This is his emails, not counting the 3-4 times a day he called me and kept running my minutes out on my cell phone.

    Hello Dallas, sending a mockup of saddle 2 with one piece jockeys and connecting to the ground seat with connecting padded seat (inlay) about 4 oz or 6 oz brown leather cover would be great. I've designed this saddle with the riggin built onto the bottom of the jockey positioned in the correct spot, place the jocky in place and do not cut off or grind down the ground seat , slight trim and open space for the sturrup leathers. place sturrup leathers and add jocky with connected D's some how. The pictures u sent look great but the ground seat looks very rough especially around the edges, and there is no leather covering the sides under the thiegh area. These are holes that the top seat leather is going to be in valley's in a few years. Maybe on saddle 2 we can design a better supported saddle. The lace on the swells and the bottom skirt looks great on saddle 1, keep up the great work and good luck in new features and design.

    Hi Dallas, this picture shows the tens and lack of ground seat support in the cantle and in front of the cantle, the total seat should of had another large piece of leather covering all the ground seat all the way to the swells, The part I have been talking about adding more leather and building up is the part you have been trimming off to make the seat narrow for some people who don't know nothing about building a ground seat. That seat needs to be full and extended 4 or 5 inches on both sides (under the thiegh area of the rider past the tree bars about 3" or so and about 4" forward of the conchos or bottom of the seat cantle toward the area where the cut out is for the saddle sturrup straps. On the final seat you can see low places in the seat at the bottom of the cantle just above where the conchos set .

    those lakes or holes are the ones I have been talking about in other old fashioned ways of building saddles, I have been trying to correct. Another way to explain this is the ground seat work I had was okay but need another larger wider piece of leather over the intire seat before the final seat was installed. You did not call me for over a week to approve the ground seat and I tried to call you for over a week and all I got was a text message on Saturday morning stating you are not taking any calls today. But poor communication causes the flaws in the build to be very hard to correct. The only way to build up that ground seat now is to take the top back off and fill up the holes. Please try to get a phone with some minutes on it so you can get the work approved before moving forward. I use cricket and its unlimited minutes and unlimited text and only 35.99 per month.

    I sent some sturrups and some little leather straps with buckles to hold the bottom of the sturrup leathers and some different conchos with texas stars for the hold buttons to keep the blevens buckles from falling off the strap . The rope strap and buckle . The sturrups should adjust with the sturrups attached to the saddle, should be about 37" from the bottom of the sturrup to the top middle of the saddle with a wrap around type measure for correct length to set the blevens buckles. There should be some latigo to strip 2 1/2 in width and about 36'' long for the front D's for tie down. Do you furnish the front cinch and breast collar. Try to ship some of the extra gear with the saddle, and please don't let anything ride on top of the seat, I don't want it to get scratched. The oiled large skirts I sent and headstalls and I suppose you did not use the back of the cantle piece I cut out for that saddle. Send the green leather and any roll of lighter leather you are not going to use and ship it also. It might take two boxes to get everything you don't need for saddle#2 What is the leather count and sheep liner and conchos and latago and soforth for saddle # 2. What else do you or might need on that one. I live in New Mexico, I payed tax on purchase of materal already and don't think I should pay tax twice on the same products and what tax are you talking about, I don't sign tax forms.

    What is your idea on the horn, and the chrome top is pretty rough and should be removed. I have designed a horn cap that does not require sewing around the edge. its like a large U shaped latigo piece with 1'' or so straps 2 place the circle on top of the horn and the apron or outer U falls down around the horn and wrap the straps like a roping wrap and then nail the ends under the hand hole like a horn wrap and you got a horn top and horn wrap in one piece and needs no sewing. So I recon the saddle can be shipped and I can finish the riggin and cinch, I just thought I sent a back cinch leather or buckles connected to a latigo strap about 50" long to be sewed to a 3" strap of leather and 45 degree the corners and connect the straps by sewing them together for a back cinch. Any way just get ur done and ship to

    GREAT JOB MR DALLAS, THANK YOU FOR THOSE LONG HOURS AND THE DETAIL IS AMAZING, THAT ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE A RANCH SADDLE. THE RIGGIN LOOKS STRONG AND SO DOES THE HORN , PROBABLY BE ABLE TO ROPE A BULL AND BE OKAY.

    Dallas, the shipping was way too much, lone star overnight is a Texas only carrier and rates are a lot less, I'm sure the local grocery store would have had a free box that would work or check with the post office and see if they can ship any lower in price. I keep telling you to stay in contact on these processes, you might not like talking on the phone but its costing me a lot of extra money, because I can find a cheaper way to ship and the saddle is still tied up in Albiqjurqe, NM will suppose to get here monday. That shipment should have been around $60.00 to ship by LONE STAR OVERNIGHT or the local post office.

    I am sending photo's of saddles I like and as you can see the riggin can be done with D"s and not have to purchase C ring with screws to skirt type riggin is not very strong. I prefer to get the regular D's and just drop them down a couple more inches and move them back to about 15/16th position on this cutter saddle. There is a box of hardware conchos and screws and copper stud with washers , somewhere for that second saddle. The D's there were 4 of them. I sent 2 sides of skirting and 1 latigo piece and I thought I sent some saddle strings and back cinch out of latigo with buckles. I do think a box got lost at the post office or lone star did not deliver the box.

    I need some photos of what you have , I think the ground seat I built is perfect, just put your metal strainer on top and add some small pieces of leather at the front by the swell under the strainer to keep the strainer level with the ground seat I started. The problem with the first saddle was scraping back down to the rawhide bars and tens were showing in the photo's , that saddle should of had a thick solid piece of leather cover the complete ground seat I started and then scarf or smooth the edges around a little. I don't care what the other cowboys are talking about narrow seat , I want the ground seat to be full and front to back and round all the way down to the bottom blending into the riggin so the top seat leather will lay smooth from on top of the ground seat down and across the top of the riggin , the sturrup leathers will support the front of the seat top leather in the front area. The portion in front of the sturrup leathers are being scarfed down to close to the height of the rawhide on the bars leaving the sturrup leathers finishing way taller, this can be remedy by making the riggin about 2" wider in the top in front and taking it up the inside of the swells and the tens in front would screw down of top giving the approximate same height as the sturrup leathers when completed giving a nice level space for the finished seat liner to set.

    I need photos to make the next saddle and what the next steps are before the changes are made.

    This flat plate design might work, but needs more leather up to the ground seat and in front of the sturrup leathers up to the hand holes mounted under the tens at the front. The skirting should be built out of 10oz leather on top and bottom build up also and then add the bark-tan sheep skin to reduce that weight factor 63 lbs is too heavy. The front cantle should be covered in high quality leather not the belley leather also in 10 oz leather to reduce the weight factor. The top seat leather should be cut out of the best looking piece of 14 oz leather and should have a nice full rounded ground seat fastened with screws to the front swells. Screws allow quick access to referbuise the saddle and allow easy refinish when re=attaching the leather after any needed adjustment or repair in the future.

    I think a good design for the cutter saddle would be the show saddle picture I sent. It has D's and regular rigging, showing a lace with shinning corners and padded seat. Nice horn cap. Can you possibly build the ranch cutter to look similar to this show saddle except with the full jockeys and just add saddle strings and I have conchos with cut outs ordered. I also have some 3" and 3 1/2'' D rings ordered. Let me know what you want to do on this cutter tree, the horn cap needs completely redone and not put the chrome piece back on because it is rough and don't need on the saddle horn. I want a smooth finished easy grip for bronc turning. I sent a picture the other day of a 1890 8 button style saddle that will look simalar to this cutter along the sides when finished. maybe you can figure it out and make something work. You were talking about the hand hole opening in the saddle; if you use those wood screws in the front swells to hold the ground seat and place a quality piece of leather all the way down and under the tens cut outs or have spacers for sturrup leathers, will support the strength of the tree and then add a full nice size piece of leather on top of the tens and then add the support leather from the D;s and blend into the ground seat leaving room for the sturrup action and sturrup fenders should ride on top of the rigging and not be hanging on anything.

    Dallas, the saddle arrived today along with several parts and headstall. I have to have a better price on the next saddle, there are too much shipping cost involved in shipping leather and tree's and hardware and then shipping it all back is pretty much costing too much per saddle. If you want to build another saddle the price must be 600.00 for the ranch cutter.

    Thanks, I have already had several compliments on the saddle and they want to know who built it and they have heard of lewis saddle shop so when you get that shop cleaned up and get back to real saddle tree's you can build me another saddle.

    Okay, you have missed a whole shipment of hardware on saddle 2. All the stuff you are talking about was for saddle 1. The post office lost a box somewhere. Anyway cannot get you on the phone, do you want to build another saddle like the first one. I have a tree and all the hardware and sheep skin in one box and 3 sides of leather in another box all buffed and sanded herman oaks leather and all the latigo already cut and sized for the saddle strings and wrap and back cinch ready to be set on with 2'' roller buckles and conchos sending 8 conchos will only ship UPS and no post office.

    Don't worry about a piece of leather it can be used there for something. I have a brand new tree ready to build and all the hardware ready to shipI'm not in a hurry if you want to build another saddle. I have to get it built if you want to take your time and build it let me know, I just received the totle amount due and will get you a check in the mail in the morning.

    I LOST ABOUT 250 DOLLARS IN SHIPPING COSTS AND TRYING TO RECOVER ONE BOX OF uspo DID NOT ARRIVE THERE. NO INSURANCE EITHER, THE ONLY WAY I CAN MAKE THIS DEAL WORK IS TO GET ABOUT 5 SADDLES BUILT. THE HARDWARE SHIPPED WAS EVERYTHING NEEDED FOR SADDLE 2, SADDLE STRINGS CONCHOS AND D's I have found another saddle builder to finish these saddles,

    The piece of extra leather u said was left there from the saddle shipment u can have if its worth anything. Probable not worth shipping costs to here. I figured once ordered was a order, but you can't depend on an order without cash deposit to back it up. I understand, you are very busy and don't have time to do extra work . I have built two of the ground seats in the wade tree's and built the ground seat and the sturrups on the cutter tree you had there, its looking pretty bad at the moment, I don't think it will ever look like a custom build saddle if I finish it. It needs a padded seat sewn in and the cantle binding and back jockys and liner in the skirts. I took off the rough horn cover and it needs a new install. There is a lot of work left, if you could finish it, would probably look a lot better. The other saddle builder is not wanting to finish it. The post office box of hardware is probably lost somewhere and Im not going to take time to look for it any more.

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