hestes

Sold.

I am selling a Cowboy CB4500 that was purchased new in Nov. It has been used to sew several holsters. We have decided to get out of the leather business. It is the basic package, I didn't order any upgrades or anything. Asking $2,000. Located near Amarillo, Tx. I would prefer local delivery or pickup, but would consider shipping it if the buyer needed that. Msg me here or call/txt 806-three 82-eight870 for more info.

Sorry for the delay, but the machine has been sold. Thanks!

I have a used Tippmann Boss for sale. I only used this machine for about 6 months before I upgraded to an electric machine. It comes with everything that came in the box from Tippmann, plus extra bobbins and an extra presser foot. Asking $1,100, plus shipping.

Thank you all for the tips! I appreciate it!!

Thanks for the info, BigJake! I appreciate it. It sounds like you also use the denatured alcohol to clean the brush up after you use resolene, as well? I really appreciate the info! Thanks again.

Thanks for the response, JLSleather. However, I haven't thinned any of my dyes. To clean my preval sprayer before, I just ran rubbing alcohol through it between colors, etc.

I just bought my first real airbrush. I didn't go expensive and just got the Harbor Freight kit. I have been using the preval canned air to dye my leather until now. I have a question or two for those are you that are more experienced with them before I get busy learning how to use it. First, do you clean or rinse your airbrush between each color or just after every use? Second, I have ordered some of the airbrush cleaner from amazon because there is so much information out there on what to use, I felt a little overwhelmed. I am using oil based dyes, and resolene/water as my final finish. I am curious on what you all use to keep your airbrush clean. I've seen some people use things like denatured alcohol or windex, etc. I didn't want to start off on the wrong foot and mess something up. Thanks in advance for your time and any tips you can offer.

Hi there. I wanted to share this because in our search to find a credit card processor to use for my holsters and our gun store that we just opened, we came across several that prohibited the use of their service for sales of firearms and accessories. Those included Square, Paypal and authorize.net. All 3 have been known to close down accounts of businesses and people in our situation with no notice. We didn't want to get into business with an organization like that. However, we found one through Frontline Processing that actually has a firearms purchasing program. That is what we signed up for to use both on my website and in the store. So far, we have been VERY happy with them. When you call, you get to talk to a real person and they have always been helpful. We haven't had a single issue with them. If you're looking a credit card processor (they have mobile solutions for smartphones, etc as well), that is pro 2A, I HIGHLY recommend them. You can read more about them at https://www.frontlineprocessing.com/programs/firearm-payments.html. If you would like our rep's contact information, pm me. If you decide to sign up, please tell them Haley Estes sent you.

Thank you all for the replies! They've been very helpful!

So it looks like you guys all burnish the edges of the reinforcement piece and the body together at the mouth of the holster. Is that correct? I am trying to decide if I should do that with the portion of the reinforcement piece that lines up with the mouth of body on the avenger holster, or just burnish them separately. Thanks for the all the pictures! I appreciate it!

I am working on a two tone avenger holster, where the body is dark brown and the reinforcement piece is light brown. That got to me wondering how all of you handle the edges on two tone holsters, where the 2 colors mate up. Do you pick one color to dye the edge, or do you do each piece in its appropriate color? I would love to see pictures, if possible. Thanks!

Thank you all!

Thanks! I was told that just a few minutes ago. I was trying to make it more complicated. :-/

I have kind of a rookie question here. I just bought a Cowboy CB4500. I am playing with it to try to get the feel of it and all that, but I was wondering how you all handle the following kind of situation. I use a stitching groover to mark where I want my stitch lines. However, when I get to where I need to turn a corner on the reinforcement piece, for example, I am sometimes too far away to make the turn without another stitch that will be too close to the edge of the leather. However, if I go ahead and make the turn, then I would be turning into the tooled area, or whatever. How do you all ensure that your stitching ends up where you want it without messing it up? Do you just adjust your pattern to make that happen? Thanks!

I think I figured out the issue. I think I was pulling the thread too tight the first few stitches and was pulling it up and out of the spring. It looks like it was user error, just like I thought. Thanks for help!

I don't think so. That was my first thought too. I watched the video on the http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ website about 4 times, so I think I have it in there right. Thanks for the suggestion, Geneva.

Thanks for the reply! Yep. That is how I am threading it. It just doesn't stay there once I start sewing.

Those are beautiful! Very nice work!

I got my new CB4500 in today. I got most of it figured out, but for some reason, my bobbin thread keeps coming out of the little notch on the bobbin shuttle. Actually, it ends up trying to come out of the shuttle at the very top. Does anyone have any ideas why? I'm coming from a Tippmann Boss, so this thing is a mystery to me. One other question, do I need to hold the thread tight for the first few stitches like I did with the Boss? Thanks!

There has been some good input here! Thanks to everyone for the tips and advice!

Hey, Katsass. You might be on to something there. I may be trying to mold the area around the trigger guard too tight! I like that to be a tight fit, but I may need to try letting it fit a little less snug. Thanks! Sometimes we just need another set of eyes and a little more experience to point out the obvious. I am going to experiment with some of the other methods of burnishing edges to see what I like best. Thanks for all the help peeps!

Thanks for the tips! I will give that a try and dye my edges before I try the gum trag. Thanks!

Thanks, Pappy. I read that Bob Parks doesn't use gum trag because it doesn't allow oil based dyes to penetrate the leather. Has anyone else noticed that? I was using the process he posted as a place to start since I had no idea what I was doing when I decided to give it a shot. I may have to experiment with that some.

lol. I guess I set myself up for that one. Nicely played. I lightly dampen the edges then use the bar glycerin soap, followed by yellow saddle soap. I follow this process pretty closely. Instead of canvas, I have been using a wooden burnishing hand tool. Then I finish the entire holster with tan-kote.