Redbeeerd

Seller told me I got it but changed his mind and gave it to someone else.

Thank you for replying guys, I have told the seller I'm taking it. Ive got a friend who lives close by, he will pick it up for me. A 132k6 for free... it's a bit too good to be true, but worst case is that its broken beyond repair which means I can still use it for spare parts.

Hoping I'll get more tomorrow. The thing is: it's free. The problem is that it's about 1000km away....

Heya! This popped up on an auction site (I have asked for more pictures), any ideas? Hoping for 132k or 132b6?

Heya! I bought a piece of "brown leather" off an auction site but I couldn't get more info from the seller. It definitely is leather but there's a pattern on the back that almost looks like canvas. The piece is really stretchy and the canvas looking stuff is not glued on. Could the pattern come from a machine that is used to thin leather? I took a picture and enhanced the contrast. I guess it's cow leather but the place I bought it from often sells deer as well.

Heya! Anyone out there happen to have som insight about the details of a glovers donkey? I have tried to find old ones but it seems they're extremely rare which made me want to (like always) build one on my own. I'm thinking it's basically a stitching pony with a comb-like clamp, but there are probably more features?

I have no clue to be honest, I bought a bag of scraps on a website for next to nothing. I suspect it is chrome tanned printed leather of some kind. It is extremely soft and the surface is almost like rubber. I even shaved off a bit of the surface on the underside because I suspected I'd gotten fake leather (because of the rubbery surface) but it checked out.

I chose option 1 Sometimes you gotta have some luck: I don't think the reel could fit more snugly

Oh, sorry

Heya! I'm trying to make a fly reel case which is the first thing I'm making that isn't flat (wallets, rifle slings etc). Somewhere in the back of my head a very small alarm was going off when I was cutting the pieces, but it wasn't until I was about to start punching holes (I hesitated on using cross stitching or baseball stitching when a buddy told me about box stitching) I realized I forgot to add material for mitering: I'm now missing 4mm in x and z directions. Would it be a bad idea to compensate by sewing a strip of leather into the mitered joint? The corner won't be as nice but this is my first try and I think the learning experience will be the big takeaway anyway.

Thanks! I'm stuck browsing premium stuff from Badalassi and Walpier: they have some insanely nice leather! The problem with being a beginner is knowing what works or not, but I think I am getting a hang of it. In this case it is simple though: Im not skilled enough for that kind of leather yet. Veg tan it is but cheaper

Heya! I'm having this idea that I want to make a hunting backpack but I'm not sure what kind of leather I should use. It needs to be rugged (duh), waterproof, and... well, green I've read the kangaroo leather is extremely tough for its weight. I understand leather needs maintenance to be waterproof (or resistant might be the right word) but are some leathers better than others? One more thing: I don't want a soft, flimsy backpack, it needs a bit of rigidity.

That kind of knowledge is fundamental even for a hobbyist: you never know where you end up and if I would find myself making that kind of stuff some day I would have that advice somewhere in the back of my head. I have a goal of making a pair of rugged boots some day, so even if I'm just making simple things now I will know that I probably should stay away from linen thread in that case.

Excellent info, thanks! I have found that if I wax the Serafil liberally it doesn't unravel. Serabond is awesome since it doesn't unravel but since it's bonded it gives a plastic look if you look closely. I'll check your work and see if I can discern the different threads!

I think you answered my question, or gave me one answer: I bet there are as many as there are people here and I'd love to hear them

Heya! I'm using Amann Serafil (and Serabond when I can get my hands on it), but I have read good things about Meisi Superfine. What would be the benefits of using one over the other? I have a hard time seeing linen thread outperforming Serafil/Serabond in pretty much any area, but most of the time thats not super important (at least not to me). Does Meisi look/feel better? Any opinions?

I'm probably buying it just because it's a damn cool machine! In Scotland the lower serial was an internal factory number identifying the particular class according to Ismacs. Since I'm in Sweden it would make sense the machine was manufactured there, I bet the number of American made Singers of that class in Sweden is next to zero.

Also, it has a double, two row serial number. Fun detectivework!

I've found a partial serial number starting with 77, no letter. That would make it a Singer 12 from 1871.

I've managed to identify it as a model 12k with a fiddle base. Trying to find out what year now. The seller couldn't find a serial number even with directions.

Thanks, I'll let him know!

I just put it close to my desk lamp to warm it a tad then used my fingers. Discovered the benefit of tacky fingers in the process

Heya! The seller can't find a serial number on it. Based on my limited knowledge it looks like it's made for lighter work perhaps? In working condition and 50 bucks.

Ok so more wax did the trick. I'll see myself out.

Heya! Like the title says! What am I doing wrong? This time I'm sewing 2x 4mm with a 2mil rubber spacing but it pretty much always happens (with all kinds of thread too) except when working on really thin stuff. The thicker the material the more it happens so I guess friction is the culprit (resistance when passing through unravels thread)? What should I do to counteract this? Bigger holes? More wax? Any good tricks out there?