Redhairing

thank you all, for the replies.....I used a long single loop slider. works great!

I make paper patterns first and then make a prototype in felt yardage. Felt doesn't exactly imitate leather but is helpful if I am making something with turned seams or draping that paper doesn't approximate well. It can be a drag to have a second prototype when you're anxious to get into the leather but can help prevent costly mistakes.

Hi- I want to make this style of duffle and have never actually seen the hardware for this closure. There are four grommets on the opening of the bag and from the unclear pics I find online, it looks like a tall narrow sort of "footman's loop" is inserted through the grommets and held together with a swivel clasp. Does anyone know what the piece of hardware is for capturing the grommets at the end of the bag? Thanks!

Hi- I want to make this style of duffle and have never actually seen the hardware for this closure. There are four grommets on the opening of the bag and from the unclear pics I find online, it looks like a tall narrow sort of "footman's loop" is inserted through the grommets and held together with a swivel clasp. Does anyone know what the piece of hardware is for capturing the grommets at the end of the bag? Thanks!

Thank you for the reply...what I have are split post handbag feet and I found out that they require a wedge shaped tool to splay the legs apart and down over a washer. Basically, they are split post rivets, not the soft pronged hand bendable type at all. Found the setter at Ohio Travel Bag. These posts are very heavy and indestructible.

How does one set the heavy foot studs that have the thick split post in the back?

That's great advice- Thank you Jimmy, I'll try that on the next bag. Time to reread the Stohlman books!

been away and just found these responses, thanks all!!! Love the rucksacks HENDREFORGAN!

Thanks for that advice, TinkerTailor. Yes, I tried going back through with the chisel and stitching and the blister shape is lessened but still not pretty. Will sharpen my tools tonight and might sew on a slightly bigger exterior pocket to cover and hide the blemished stitching rows.

Thank you all so much! It's clear to me now. Tried to smooth out the blisters with a bone folder with little success. Dull tools plus softish poundo board equals pockmarks. I will learn to sharpen my chisels and meanwhile ordered the Seiwa chisels that Nigel reviewed and start again!!!

Hi- I am using 4-5 oz. bridle leather for a satchel and using a diamond stitching chisel to go through a thin calf skin interior pocket and the bridle leather and am getting a horrible round blister shape around my holes on the surface. they don't smooth out with hammering.....any ideas? Is the surface just too firm a temper to prick through the backside? I would be very difficult to catch the pocket edge by pricking through the top....is this just another lesson learned about a particular leather? Only make holes from the top or could my tools be too dull? I'm using a mallet on a poundo board....thanks!!!! Susan

Can you recommend a supplier?....this sounds right up my alley....googling right away...Thank you!!!!!!

thank you both for the advice.....I will investigate the brass iron and the Fenice coating as I have quite a few chrome dyed 5-6 oz. hides that I hadn't considered using for "edge work"pieces. Thanks again!

I am making a satchel with exposed edges and would like to burnish and finish them well. I have used veg tan and bridle leather & love the edge quality but wonder what other choices might be available. Specifically, what is combination veg/chrome re-tan? and will it burnish? Will oil tan burnish? Any other leather choices suitable for raw edge work? Thank You~

WOW! 86 views and no replies! Well I finished the bag and here is what I did...instead of pricking my stitch holes through the face of the hair on hide and not being able to see through the layer of hair on both faces of the bag, I carefully measured my starting and end points and made holes from the pigskin lined back on each side of the bag individually and hoped that the holes would match up when I stitched the front and back together. I am happy to report that it worked beautifully and probably because of the uncomplicated simple shape of the bag. thanks.

Hi- I am making a simple hair on hide and glued on pigskin lined flat tote bag. Raw edge work with right sides out and won't be able to scribe my line for a pricking chisel. All I can come up with is to pierce along the edge of a ruler and sew as I go. Any good tips out there would be appreciated!

thanks for the replies. I took out the stitches, sewed just the bottom box of the gusset inside out and sewed the sides seams flesh sides together....looks good. Every new leather purchase presents a learning curve and I guess that's why I love it!

Making a messenger bag with 4-5 oz. English bridle leather and as I am sewing the body right sides together, I am feeling like it will be impossible to flip/invert. I went gung ho on stitching pockets all over both sides of the piece and now it is stiff as a board. It probably wouldn't flip even without all the extra leather as it is narrow and the leather while flexible, has a very rigid surface. If I try to wrangle it, will it destroy the surface?......or should I pull out the side stitching and saddle stitch it back up flesh sides together with raw edges? Please see photo. UGHHHH.

will be using your stretcher method too...I think I CAN do this! THX!

Thank you Tree Reaper- Great common sense approaches! I will experiment this weekend with your techniques and I thank you very much!

Aha! very clever....sounds like a much more flexible and forgiving technique! Thank you very much.

Newbie here making a 1" wide handbag strap out of 4oz. english bridle leather....have my strap cutter, double sided tape, and saddle stitching supplies ready to go but I'm scratching my head over how the edges will possibly line up when I'm finished stitching. Should I cut one side of the strap slightly wider and trim to the one inch side of the strap after stitching? any advise would be appreciated!

Thank you for your reply. Your technique sounds like the way to go...ordering a bag of shearling scrap today to practice. Thank you so much!

I am making a handbag with a large flap. I'd like to have the face of the flap in shearling stitched to a identical sized backing of 3 oz. veg. tan. I know to cut the shearling from the flesh side with a razor so as not to trim off the hair with the cut and I thought I would then "barge" it to the leather flap before stitching. I am saddle stitching, no machine. I want my pretty stitching visible on the back of the flap but am hoping the nap of the shearling will hide the stitches from the top side. I haven't ordered the shearling yet so I have not experimented to see how possible this might be to pull off. Can I find the stitching holes from the shearling side? Will those stitches disappear like I want them to do? Or should I just decoratively saddle stitch the edge of the veg tan piece and only glue the shearling to it? Any help would be much appreciated!

I haven't used the dremel- sounds like a good plan. Thanks for the clear instructions!!!