walter roth

Hi Leathercraftsmen...... Se here the Photos to my last Post. Walter

Hallo Lederhandwerker....... Hier selbe der Post in Deutsch. Also hiermit der seit Monaten überfällige Post zum Thema Näh-Ahlen vorbereiten. Also, bei mir hat "Murphy" gleich ein paar mal zugeschlagen. Der PC hatte Probleme, der Kompressor, dann die Hydraulikpresse. Also ich hatte kaum noch Zeit was zu tun hier. Nun hoffe ich aber das es wieder besser wird und ich euch was zeigen darf. Also im folgenden die Fotos, leider wie immer ohne makro-Objektiv aufgenommen, dadurch leider nicht ganz scharf die Fotos. Ich schliefe die Ahlen auf der Maschine, wie habe ich weiter vorne in diesem Tread einmal beschrieben. das heisst, ich schleife sie mit der Paste Lea Compound. Wichtig ist, das die Spitze der Ahle etwas abgerundet ist. Sie sollte wenn sie in die Vertiefung der angezeichneten naht vom Prick einsticht, nicht zu spitzig sein damit sie sich schön einmittet. das heisst, sie nicht l8inks oder rechts einsticht, was bei einer sehr spitzen Ahlenspitze passiert, sondern eben sich schön in die Mitte begibt und so eine regelmässige Stichreihe macht. Die Ahle darf immer nur in der Stichrichtung geschliffen werden. macht man das gut, wird sie in das Leder einsinken ohne jeden Kraftaufwand. Man kann sie dann mit der Spitze des Zeigefingers durchs Leder stechen. Zudem darf die Ahle nicht zu sehr abgeflacht werden, denn sonst muss man eine zu briete Ahle nehmen um die Näh-Nadeln noch durch das Ahlen Loch zu ziehen. Eine zu breite Ahle macht aber keine schönes Nahtbild. Ich hoffe man sieht es auf den Fotos gut genug. Schleifen lassen sich die Ahlen auch mit den verschiedenen Steinen. Als erstes das abflachen mit einem simplen Carborundum-Stein, dann einen weissen Arkansas polieren und zum ganz fein machen einen "Belgischen Brocken" nehmen. Der Belgier ist recht weich und man hat sofort eine Rille im Stein mit der Form des Ahleneisens, womit man die Ahle gut auf der ganzen Fläche polieren kann. Aber immer in der Stichrichtung der Ahle arbeiten, das ist sehr wichtig. Ich habe als Muster eine sehr grosse Ahle genommen, sonst hätte ich es nicht Fotografieren können, aber die Arbeit bleibt bei den kleinen genau die selbe. Das einsetzen im Buchsbaumgriff sollte sehr vorsichtig gemacht werden. Das Loch darin sauber und masshaltig vorbohren, nur wenig kleiner wie die Ahle selber, denn Buchsbaum reisst recht schnell. Die Ahle zusammen mit etwas "Araldit" ....."2 Komponenten Klebstoff" einsetzen. Früher benutzte man dazu einfach "Kolofonium", das ist das Harz welches man bei den Geigenbogen verwendet um die Pferdeschweifhaare zu behandeln. Das Kolofonium einfach im Wasserbad flüssig kochen und ins Loch geben, das Werkzeug einsetzen und nach wenigen Minuten ist das Kolofonium-Harz hart. Aber es ist bei grösseren Werkzeugen besser anzuwenden wie bei den feinen Nähahlen, da hält Araldit besser.

Hi leather craftsman... Here the months overdue post on the topic of sewing Awls prepare. So, my "Murphy" has struck just a few times. The PC had problems, the compressor, then the hydraulic press. So I had no time what to do here. Well I hope that it will get better and I can show you what. So the following photos, unfortunately as always without macro lens the photos taken, this is unfortunately not quite sharp. I was asleep on the Ahlen on the machine, how do I front once described in this tread. that is, I loop it with the paste Lea Compound. It is important that the tip of the awl is slightly rounded. It should if it is approaching in the deepening of the marked by the prick stands up, not too pointed them be nice einmittet so. that is, it stands a not l8inks or right, what happens when a very pointed awl tip, but just nice in the Middle moves and makes a regular stitch set. The awl may be ground only in the insertion direction. to do that well, she will sink into the leather without any effort. You can then sting them with the tip of the index finger through the leather. Also the awl may not be flattened, because otherwise you have a width to Ahlen to draw hole make the sewing needles by the awl. An awl to width makes but no nice seam. I hope it does well enough on the photos. The Ahlen loop can be also with different stones. As first flatten it with a simple carborundum stone, then a white Arkansas polishing and to the very fine make a Belgian rock take. The Belgian is quite soft and it has a Groove in the stone with the form of awl of iron, so you can Polish the awl good around the area immediately. Stitch but always in the direction of the awl work, which is very important. I have can, otherwise I would have a very large awl pattern it not photographing, but the work remains exactly the same with the small. the insert in the boxwood handle should be done very carefully. Pre-drill the hole is clean and dimensionally accurate and 2 components adhesive use the awl together with some "Araldite". Previously used "Rosin", which is simply the resin which used in the violin bow to treat the horse tail hair. The Rosin easy cooking liquid in a water bath and into the hole, insert the tool and after a few minutes the Rosin resin is hard. But it is better to apply as for the fine sewing awls for larger tools, as Araldite keeps better. I put the photos to this post tonight. I just have trouble to write here and especially the copy into almost never really works. I know not what it is...???

Hi Simon... Yes you're right. So, I tried before 2 months long to adjust something, unfortunately it didn't work out. Somehow, the programs from Europe work together not good with those from the United States...(((-: Anyway, I very often have problems here to write something and then give it up... Because it is at the moment just I'll set "Sewing-Awls grind" tomorrow finally something on the subject. I have prepared long time ago. Greeting to all Walter Roth

Hi Tanin ....... I've looked at the video. I'll try to explain the photo Graphically what I mean. What Al Stohlmann doing there is very inadequate, in principle, but somewhat true. Stohl Mans Ahlen handle is completely useless. In addition, one must also show how to sewing, whether the proceeds photos ... must try it ...... Unfortunately I only speak bad English, I must try ......... It will take a few days to make it. But I do it. greeting Walter

Hi Tanin .................... I was 6 weeks traveling abroad, and I have brought Salmonella what another 10 days busied myself ........)))))) -: But now here an answer. So the picture shows exactly "Nährössli" ​​or "Nähzange" = Sewing Clamp, .... sold the company Bernhard. The company Bernhard shows almost no tools on his website. These Sewing-Clamp is here in Switzerland for sure on the 100 years of the standard at the saddlers. I would even without these Sewing Clamp-It could not be, what you can see at the 99% bad leather seams. Of course, the topic of "Sewing Awl" is also something that should be necessarily improved. One issue that should be urgently improved also 99% of the leather craftsmen. Unfortunately, the awls will prepare nowhere more not shown correctly even by the learned saddlers. In our traditional saddlers this is something which is most practiced what has been learned very thoroughly and at least 3 years requires exercise until you can do it right. But a usable sewing horse is always the first requirement to do so.

Hi Bill ..... I also grew up on the farm. And I had the most beautiful play ground one could wish for. Father gave me a cow, the most tame he had, and with which I could do whatever I wanted. And of course I went already with seven years with the tractor today ...... would the police arrest me .... ((-: And I always had a gun. With seven years as an air rifle, with 12 years a 6 mm caliber Long Rifle rifle. And where I was in the forest, I had it. Well, I had a workshop, they belonged to my father, and in which I could do something all day. It was a good, healthy and exciting time when I was little ....... Greeting Walter

Hello leather craftsmen .... I was 6 weeks in a distant land, i could not answer. I assume the link has now been found. Thanks for the praise. I'm still looking saddler sew pliers, but get no more. Well, now I'm back and will post here again slightly. greeting Walter

Let`s see if i can Use it.......((((-: You have the mass in inches, ....not in cm. Walter

Hi mark. Yes, I wanted to buy the plough you only also, I bought then but something else, this... ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Lot-of-Vintage-Leather-Worker-Working-Brass-Dies-20-pcs-Randall-/111292889793?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e992bac1 I wanted to buy a plough once, quite overslept but the end of the auction. Well, this would have been top notch here by Barnsly. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-Leather-Workers-George-Barnsley-Plough-Gauge-w-Brindley-Knife-Inv-502-/390767804585 And I would have to... buy time http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Leather-Cutting-Plough-Gauge-Leatherworking-Saddler-Tools-/160991177661 Well, I can buy everything ...(((((((((((((-: Greeting Walter

You will find the description of "Lea-Compound" in my tread page 2 or 3. http://Leatherworker.NET/forum/index.php?showtopic=49437&page=17 so I'm doing that. http://www.Lea.co.UK/help-and-advice/reference-charts/greaseless-abrasive-compounds.php greeting Walter

Here the Photos of the Sewing-Clamp. I would like to 160 Francs. Greeting Walter

Yes I have pictures, .........only this blog refused to accept the. I can not write, do not know why that is so often. Somehow the program from the United States is working here in Europe is not good. I need to adjust the images at home in the evening. greeting Walter

Hi leather craftsman... I have seen many pictures here. and I saw many beautiful decorations on the leather. But what I have seen are really good and fine sewing. I think for me it's also because that seam clamps not very often used in the United States. I've got some of them now and would like to ask here if you want to have one. We have ever discussed the topic and this was for a new here in the Switzerland most sure price too high. Here indeed, between 500 and 800 francs, what are the $900 cost them. Here I have one that is about 30 years old, but the function is very good. and it costs much less. I could give it for 150 francs. that would be something...??? greeting

Hello Simon ................. The things of the Swiss army were now safely sold 15 years, but now things are going for neige . Our army was 20 years ago, 800 ` 000 thousand men strong, today there are still 180 ` 000 That's why we had so many things übverschüssige . They can be found in the Army Liq stores , but the good times are over. http://www.armyliqshop.ch/ http://www.armyliqshop.ch/armyliqshop/thun/ Today we fiondet more things at dealerships such as those here . http://www.coro-handels.ch/willkommen.html http://www.coro-handels.ch/willkommen.html http://www.coro-handels.ch/willkommen.html Or here also has things the army, but also all kinds of other . http://www.green-store.ch/ 15 years ago sold the Army in the shops even guns of the army for 80 - the piece ..... ((( (-: But there were also artillery cannons , rockets pipes , tanks -68 , Willys jeeps and buy another . The tank 68 there were 10,000 francs for . Also Sattler tools were found . Ps: Somehow, the PC software is not completely compatible with the blog here, so here are the underlined phrases.

Hi Simon . In Basel was the former tannery Baader, unfortunately closed for about 20 years . Then the company winter , which also has long traded leather, what they do today I do not know exactly. Here 2 links http://www.winter-home.ch/de/kontakt/adressen/ http://www.winter-creation.com/de/produkte-a-z/ Then there in Bern, about 100 km from Basel tannery Graber . He mainly makes goatskin and calf leather in natural color . For Sattler very important here , but if you use something ....? ? Then the Emme leather. Which makes this a natural brown " leather stuff " after the old Standsrts the Swiss Army. It is greased baked and light brown, darker in the sun wonderful after and is very suitable for straps and case work . http://www.emmeleder.ch/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=16 The black leather is not very good , but the brown is really nice. A good leather dealer is also the Höltschi leather trade . http://www.hoeltschi-leder.ch/ He has 35 years in the metier and knows his stuff. The is in Zurich , with the train about 30 minutes from Basel. Then there are still the Ehrlich leather in Biberach. But this is Germany . Further away from basel . http://www.ehrlich-leder-lorica.de/ The also makes some leather embossed with old pattern sheets for chairs from the period around 1850 - 1920. http://www.ehrlich-leder-lorica.de/04_Produkte/Produkte_D.php If you ever need embossed leather that makes here even beautiful parts like 100 years ago, with the old tooling plates of 100 years ago . http://www.colorzeitung.at/einpraegsam-123706.html Or a look here . http://ameyer.at/?page_id=70 ................ here the patterns he has. http://ameyer.at/?page_id=1367 So nunr 's enough for this time. I think you 've had enough "work" for your free evening ..... (((( (-: greeting Walter

Hi Bruce ..... So, now I had once had time to edit the things from you. Here are the pictures, I hope you like them. The 3/4 moon knife is very good and still big enough that was worth the Abeit. In France they are called knife ...... schwalbenswanz in English I think is called the Swallow-tail or Dovetail. I used one for many years, mainly to cut thick wool felt and thin out at the edges. But I have found all the years no more after I get my from the teaching time by over 2/3 of its size have less ground. Then I have the Meyer and Fammery ground de-rusted and clean. It looks good at handle, which is still under the hammer is an old forged. For me is always a sign of good quality. And I must say, he is good, yes he can be sanded excellent, and he holds the cut wonderfully. Here again, no modern steel roller gives me the evidence from the present time so good Halfmoon, like the old forged. This one is great for grinding and cuts better than anything modern. I wish I could show you how the Halfmoon knife cut the leather without any effort quite easily. Add the rice circle I also reworked. Very nicely done as Osborne has a fine quality. Seems almost as if Americans were equipped with much smaller hands ... ((-: Greeting Walter

Hello Simon .......... Sure you can do it that way. Just as you like it .... ((-: At half-moon knife, it is not good if the rust scar into the material going into it, because they can no longer grind clean, if you're the cutting edge of a rust scar. greeting walter

Bruce Thank you. Yes sure, send me the photos, I have not had time for anything. Before Christmas is always something going on. But now I'll take care drumm. In the next 2-3 days I will send you a mail. greeting Walter

Hello leather craftsmen ..... Now I had finite time to get ready a "free" tag to the tool. It is a Rein-Rounder from HF Osborne. I sanded it, polished the holes and made the new base. Unfortunately, the casting quality was often poor 100 years ago, the cracks here and a piece was missing. Now I have all produced beu. Do you like the part ....? And Bruce ................. Are you satisfied me me .... ((((-: regards Walter

And here is a car... By the way, are from the Museum... http://www.Kutschen-Museum.ch/ Unfortunately I could venture that not as a whole take pictures...))-: Next time I will do better, so you can see how also a Coach Looks.

Here the second part of the photo.

Hello everybody... I was last weekend when a customer of mine. He repainted the carriage and collects them. He has also a Museum for the people to the look at the coach. He has a few really nice and elegant carriage by Swiss truck farmers. The Switzerland based fashion above all to Paris and not England. Because the French were the masters of elegant lines. I did the upholstery in the car, leather covering tops and the sky in the. then the buck wedges, so the wedge - cushion for the Coachman and the spraying ceilings, so leather cover with which the driver protected from dirt and water spray. These leather covers are folded on the splash Board at the front of the carriage and fastened with leather straps. Then I did of course also the fenders. All with 2 layers of leather by approx. 3 mm thick, painted and grained (Buffalo scars). And of course they are sewn by hand. I could do unfortunately not really good photos. In the Museum are lamps on the ceiling that show strong and I had also some little time, I could not extra nice make the carriages because the space there. then I took a few photos of collars, which are also out of my hand. so-called ( Bündner-Kummte ) = Bündner-Collars, were used here to moderate work, these are not for carriage. the I dare that made have, I'm always on the Board behind the backrest, my name, the date, the prize for the work. the time that I needed to, etc. posted. At some point in 100 years that will read maybe someone if he dare have be done to...Maybe...(((-: So much fun with the watch. Greeting Walter

Hi leather craftsman... I have now finished the recipe for the liquid brilliance of edges of bone glue and tried out. Earlier I chewed the gloss Yes finished one, today, there are unfortunately no longer him. So, as you can see on the pictures, I have bone glue with 1.2 dl water swell again 50 grams. Then he is to a chunk which is like jelly, or like a little hard vanilla pudding...((-: I give into the glue pot and heat it until it is pretty liquid. Then I give to isopropyl alcohol and casters 0.8 dl. the warm Knochenlein in a glass container. The glue separates then something and looks weird, you can see it in the pictures. But never mind, we stir few minutes well it and he is again consistent. To the touch but something out picks copper or chromium steel use, so that the glue will not discolor. Now let the glue cool and while he is evenly dissolved in the isopropyl alcohol. Now we cast even a tablespoon of Glycerin to, so that the edges gloss is slightly smoother. the gloss is now permanently liquid and can warm up at any time without use. Just on the edge of the leather and shiny with a cloth rub. The shine because the alcohol in a sealed container store, otherwise the alcohol evaporated naturally. You want to have slightly thicker consistency, add just some bone glue, but only as long as it is still warm, otherwise it improperly blends. So the recipe again: 50 Grams of bone glue. Let 1.2 DL. to swell in water. 0.8 DL Isoprophylalkohol to the liquid to keep the bone glue. 1 Tablespoon Glycerin. The gloss I made here is now 2 weeks old and he no longer separated, yes he stayed pretty fluid and evenly. There should be a sediment, simply shake before use. So check it out, because you can the components to the edges glory decades store without that they are bad. Greeting Walter