VanRhodes

As per the Seiko SLH-2B instructions manual its 0-0.3 mm.

That is at least where needle to hook relation is adjusted on the Seiko SLH-2B and they're pretty much the same.

As far as I know, it's one of the most expensive motor setups out there and I really had high expectations. As it is right now, I am fairly confident the handwheel and its 11 kg of mass is bigger issue and not necessarily the motor/controller. But I will be messing about a little more with the settings to see if I can fine tune, right now I'm just happy to have gotten it to this stage. Here's the current performance when sewing through 8 layers of mil-w-4088 type 13 webbing. In this case, performance isn't bad. Very high torque and great performance in this situation. (never mind the skipped stitch, I have since adjusted the machine)

@Kgg - I posted the initial topic by accident and have since then updated with more text and videos of the current situation. Its sewing pretty good as is but granted I would like the motor to stop even more distinct.

TL;DR Started out like crap, works pretty well now. A couple of months back I ordered the Efka AB321/DC1550 from a local rep here in Sweden thinking it would be a great addition to the Seiko SLH-2B-FH-1. I had seen some neat videos of the Efka-kit on Youtube and heard nothing but good about Efka from people online, so I was pretty eager to get it installed and try it out. I set it up and ran the SIR routine as is described in the manual and the performance of the Efka kit was a disappointment. I could not believe how poorly it handled the machine. Positioning worked, kind of. On heel back, it did two revolutions of the machine before going to needle up and the needle bar had a terrible vibration at stop. Got a few videos of the initial setup here: https://youtube.com/shorts/Fr1KZr8ba2c https://youtube.com/shorts/-tVi2nwtjTk https://youtube.com/shorts/uclztXWwARc Disappointed with the performance of the Efka-kit, I immediately began scouring through the manual and parameter list looking for some kind of solution to my problem. I also contacted the representative that sold me the kit, hoping for some qualified help. Got some tips but it really didn't sort anything out... I also reached out to Camatron Sewing and they offered up some more information, eventually I also contacted Efka in Germany. They provided a lot of directions but didn't really answer any of the questions that I had. Slowly but surely, I began piecing information together and figuring things out. 1 - The order in which you modify the parameters matters to some extent. It's not without reason they are listed in a certain order in the parameter file you can download from the controller. E.g F290, this is the first parameter you set as it defines a lot of other parameters. Also F218 is the 2nd parameter listed in the file from the drive, it's function and values aren't listed in the AB321 parameter list, but it functions similar to the F290 parameter. 0 is default and 1 will switch the controller to a model 204/205-mode, e.g., it's now adapted to work with the DA 204/205 machine and similar other heavy sewing machines. (This was a game changer) 2 - Code 5913, F400 is the master reset of the drive. Meaning if you input code 5913 (instead of 3112 after startup) and then chose F400 and increase the value, when you press E it will reset the controller back to the factory default. 3 - Efka Code levels. All of these are to my knowledge not publicly listed but I found them by chance. As you may have figured out, 5913 is the Efka level code, meaning you can access and change _all_ the parameters of the controller. Use with caution. 3112 is the "normal" level at which you can modify the normal parameters. L 0 : Operator level No code number required for these parameters. L 1 : Techncian level Code no. 1907 with V810 / V820 control panel operation. L 2 : Supplier level Code no. 3112 with V810 / V820 control panel operation. L 3 : Service level Code no. 5706 with V810 / V820 control panel operation. L 4 : EFKA level Code no. 5913 with V810 / V820 control panel operation. 4 - The AB321 contains a few typos. The formula for calculating the transmission ratio(F272) is wrong by a factor of 10. This can be cross referenced with the manual for the AB620 for instance. Also, the diagram for the needle positioner disks are wrong. They no longer have a slot so to speak. Rather, 50% of the disk, or 180 degrees, is "high" and the other is "low" and I suspect this is simply used to keep track of when the main shaft has rotated 180 and 360 degrees and to let the controller know this. For F270 needle positioning modes 1,2,3 and 4 the actual position is set by the disc and then the "opposite" position (up or down, depending on mode) is set by means of F271. 5 - For the heel back to function properly, F110 positioning speed and F116 trimming speed must match. This is also never mentioned in the manual. All in all, there's _a lot_ that isn't covered in the manual or anywhere else for that matter but it's finally functioning pretty well. For those interested, I have attached my current parameter file. This is openable via the notepad in windows. I have also included a few Youtube shorts showing how its currently functioning. I hope this thread might provide someone with the answers that I couldnt find online. Next up will be to set up the pneumatics. https://youtube.com/shorts/8pgyXVS_164 https://youtube.com/shorts/8u4fXp6Sskg https://youtube.com/shorts/E1jstD2n5v4 https://youtube.com/shorts/dI_pTNYk2kY 0109DATA.par

My bad, it's a Durkopp 249-2. The singer 7-33 is done and I'm looking to flip it as I picked up a Seiko SLH-2B-FH-1 and the Adler 20 is being converted in to a CNC machine, but it's taking a little time as I need to finish up some CAD parts for the motor mounts.

Ive got an old needle gauge set that will let you flip the needle to the side to achieve the same effect that you have. Quite interesting, came on an old Durkopp 239 needle feed.

5 or 6-cord, nylon thread, equal to or greather than A-A-59826 Type 2 Class B. A-A-59826 supersede the older VT-295E spec. Pay close attention to the way your sling will be loaded with regard to the splits or joints for the eye's. Please have a look at the linked PDF for some interesting technical reading. http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/110406.pdf

By accident I found a couple of pictures of the Singer 7 class with an adler-looking head and spring.

Also, the Adler 20 class is longer than the Singer 7 class. The base differs an inch or two in lenght if im not mistaken. Regarding the square faceplate of the Adler 20 I have actually seen a Singer 7 with a similar look for sale here in sweden, unfortunantly I did not save the pictures the seller sent me.

That looks like an Adler 20-20 with a standard lift. High lift machines has an extra spacer in between where the head is mounted to the base of the machine. I don't know if you disassembled it or if you're just missing a few parts for your thread tension mechanism.

I would love to see one in gray hammer paint with black details. <3 Make sure you post PLENTY of pictures during the process

That might be the case for my machine since its using SIMANCO parts for the shuttle, hook and driver. This would explain why it might be a little bit off in timing. None the less, shortening and reshaping the hook worked like a charm so give it a shot.

To be honest with you Sandyt, I solved it by reshaping the hook. I shortened it a couple of millimeters with a dremel and it's now working perfectly. I figured I could give it a shot since I got an extra hook with the machine.

On my Adler 20 I can move it buy gently tapping it with a mallet, on the 7-33 however, it's a completely different story. I did try tapping it with a mallet but perhaps I wasnt using enough force.

CowboyBob: I did loosen the screw in an attempt to slide the shuttle race closer to the needle (just like I did on my adler 20), but this one is properly stuck for some reason. Its not even budging.

Yeah. Cant thank you enough for all your help Gregg! Now I just gotta figure out how to get the shuttle race moving to adjust the needle to shuttle relation. For some reason I cant get it moving closer to the needle. Also somewhat worrried about the amount of sideways play in the shuttle hook. I can push it closer to the needle and make it shift a few millimeters but I'm not sure if this will actually be an issue while sewing. I dont have any play even close to this in my Adler 20.

If all else fails you can always buy the new style rock shaft from Keystone sewing. That is said to mitigate the broken-pin-syndrome and I gotta say the NSRS is looking pretty darn sweet.

I got the parts from Gregg @keystonesewing today and I wasnt really expecting the tapered pins to be this big and for a moment I thought he had sent me the wrong pins. However, I guess youre supposed to drive them in and then just cut to size wich is kinda neat Thank you for the super speedy shipping! Yetibelle: I also included a picture the shows the approximate angle between the two sides of the rocking shaft.

I love how much time you are putting in to restoring that old beast. I'll see if I can get you of the rocking shaft tomorrow when I'm at the shop again.

Yetibelle: What subclass is that Adler? I have the Adler 20-7 as well and it's massive, quite a lot bigger compared to the 7-33. My 20-7 has a SIMANCO shuttle race amongst other parts so I guess they're fairly similar in some aspects and I've also seen pictures of a Singer 7-class that is fairly similar in appearance to the 20-7. For my 7-33, they're more or less in line. Gregg linked me this as an alternative solution in case the rocking shaft I had wasnt repairable. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/95106499cbd74198a77839493fb3924e Not sure if it will fit yours, but it might be indicative of the angle between the two arms.

Thrash threasure: Please post som pictures of the Adler 20 you are restoring! Id love to see what you've got going on. On a side note, the hole in the shaft is very clean and not worn at all on mine. It was just a broken pin and the break was so clean I could barely make out the pin from the shaft when I took it apart. Yetibell, I have fixed it with a temporary pin for now and there is no play at all, what so ever in the linkage.

According to Gregg, those pins often break due to the pressure of the spring on top so go ahead and check yours. It should be clearly noticeable if something is broken.

I havent received the pins yet(they're in the mail), but I included a picture clearly showing the broken pin, still attached to one part of the rocking shaft. These are the pins I ordered. The ones for the 7-33 are apparantly the same as those used for the Seiko SLH 2-B http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/906c427e93724c929ff31a838537115f

I've got the NPS installed on one of my machines and it does work well. For the controlbox, there really arnt alot of options to chose from you so basicly click you way through the menu's and make your choice. unfortunantly I dont recall the exakt menu sequence, but some trial and error will solve that. Its actually fairly easy. As for setting up the NPS, you need to attach it to the shaft and set the two discs in the correct position. You've got a 50/50 chance of setting the discs up properly so just give it a try and reverse the order if your first chance didnt give you the correct output