OutEast

I adjusted the tension somewhat but still have the problem. Some of my stitches appear to have stained the leather in some places, as I can see small amounts of gray/black in the stitch holes; which would leave me to believe that it is oil....I just can't figure out from where exactly..... Anyone? Thanks again! Mike

My tension looks and feels right (unchanged from my black thread tension), but what you say makes sense. I will lessen my top tension and see what I get. Thanks abn! Mike

Greetings all, This past year I picked up a used Classic #9 for a steal and have been sewing holsters fairly well with it. The type of holster I make is typically two layers of 7/8 oz dyed black, and I have, up until now, used 277/207 black bonded nylon thread. I am now making a rough side out pocket holster left natural and have switched over to white thread of the same type and size. The problem I am having is that the top thread is turning gray when the stitch is pulled up and completed. As far as I can tell the stitch remains white until it passes through the needle and into the leather. I checked and ensured that the machine is not excessively oily and that no gunk has built up that may contact the thread. The bottom stitch is nice and bright white. Any suggestions? I apologize if I failed to describe the problem adequately, as I am new to machine stitching. Thanks in advance. Mike, NY

What style of holster is he looking for, Avenger or Pancake?

Thanks guys, I thought I done good! I watched the video, and re-read the manual and think I have the tension adjustments down (for now!). The stitches look great top and bottom....I will attempt a pic of both the machine and the stitch today and let the experts take a look! Thanks again, Mike

Greetings all, This is my introductory post. I have been lurking for quite some time, as you can see! I got into leatherwork (off and on) about 10 years ago when my Father taught me how to construct leather holsters. I am a LEO, and have been for 12 years now. My forte are pocket holsters for J frames, and I have made a few for my friends (and myself of course) over the years.. I also make belt holsters and belts for friends from time to time, and again for myself when I find the time. I would say I have made perhaps 35 holsters over the years. Until now all have been hand sewn. I recently decided that if I could up the production (35 in 10 years?, no where to go but up!) I might be able to make a bit of money at it. I began to research machines ad nauseum (you know you've been there staring at the monitor for hours!) until I decided on a Cobra class 3/Artisan Toro 3000 machine. Although I was concerned that this might be too much for a first powered machine, I figured with the customer support and this forum, I would find my way soon enough. Then my brother emails me a most curious find. Turns out he spotted a local ad for a guy selling a Luberto's#9 Harness Stitcher in excellent condition. I called him to ask about the machine and he said he had used it little in over 10 years, and still had the original spools of thread purchased with the machine, extra needles, all paperwork,(the service video as well), and mounted on a sturdy stand. I did MORE research on the #9 and saw nothing but great things about the machine. It seemed a hand cranked machine like this would be great for a first timer. So, I drove 8 hours round trip today to take a look....and all was good! The seller gave me an in depth demonstration, and I tried it out for myself and it seemed fairly straightforward in its operation. Everything seemed great with the deal, the seller wanted $1,500 cash. I did run into a problem though....the machine was red, and I definately wanted black. So, I got back in my truck and drove the 4 hours home to begin the search for a black #9........NOT!....Thought I would insert my own little brand of humor there, sorry. I hope no one spit on their monitor! Did I get a good deal?. The machine seems real solid and is in great condition. I tried a little sewing on some scraps and things went OK, but I am having some tension troubles. I will post pics when I am able, and all you #9 experts please prepare yourself to be bombarded with questions! Sorry for the rambling, still amped up from the day. Thanks for your time. Out East

I like the contrast. Great edges as well! Mike

That, Sir, is impressive!

Looking good! Perhaps when cutting your stitch groove stop when you have cut enough for where the actual stitches will lay. In other words, maybe crease the rest of the line around the perimeter of the holster, I think it gives it a more finished look. (Strictly my opinion of course)! I also think stitching around the belt slots is mandatory, (in most cases)! Nice work! Mike

Thanks for all the explinations and tips fellas. I appreciate it. Mike

Randy, Yeah the single layer loop, or any other single layer for that matter, can be tough to bevel/burnish. I like to moisten the edge with a bit of water, lay it flat on a marble slab or similar hard surface, and angle my inverted beveler so that it burnishes the edge. I usually press down pretty hard during this process. Then I flip the piece over and do the same on the reverse. This sometimes leaves a bit of a "ridge" on the top of the edge that I then round off with an old wooden burnishing wheel. The trick, for me, is to get the correct angle with the handle of the beveler to create as little of a ridge as possible!. Sorry if it sounds confusing, everyone has their own method(s) I suppose. It is difficult to convey what I actually do. Keep up the good work! Mike ETA I apologize if this is a bit of a hijack Randy but can anyone diagnose the problem with the stitches lengthening around the trigger guard? Tax refund may yield an Artisan machine and I'm gathering all the info I can! Thanks!

I should have been more specific....I bevel the edge with a #3 or #4 beveler, and then flip the tool over and burnish the same side. (After it is cemented together of course)! Mike

Randy, Looks good! I am by no means an expert holster maker, but I can offer some humble critiques. Perhaps you might want to bevel your snap loop (and other edges a bit more) and smooth them out a bit. I think nice smooth edges really make a holster look "finished". I use a #4, or #3, beveler then flip it over and smooth the edge with the same tool (little bit of moisture and elbow grease applied as well)! When you think you are finished, let it dry a bit and then hit it again to remove all the roughness. It also seems you are getting a bit of distortion (for lack of a better word) on your stitches around the trigger guard. It looks machine sewn, so I cannot offer any remedies as far as that goes, as I still sew by hand. I am a LEO myself, and cannot afford the upgrade to a machine as of yet! (Although I'm looking hard at an Artisan 3000). Are you sewing flat and then inserting the pistol into cased leather and then subsequently the press? Lastly, you may want to trim a bit off the bottom to eliminate a bit of the pucker you have there, although it doesn't look that bad now that I think about it. Sorry if that was too much brother. Be safe. Mike, NY

I got a tip from someone on the board (cannot recall who, but thanks again)! who dampens the leather slightly prior to dying. It seems to open the pores a bit and allows the dye to absorb more readily (it has been working well for me, YMMV). Try it on a scrap piece. I used a dampened/slightly wet sponge. Let it sit for a minute, then apply the dye (I go one coat vertical, one horizontal, one diagonal) and see what you get. You will no doubt get other options with regards to dying, no one does it exactly the same. The great thing is the wealth of knowledge at your fingertips here in the forums. I've learned quite a bit already, and continue to learn every day. Sorry to ramble, first post! Good luck! Mike