Jason311

Hey all, I'm looking for suggestions for where I can find a quality monogramming kit. I'd prefer one that held three to four (or more) letters in a row and stamps strong and evenly. I've looked at a few places and just haven't been able to find what I saw a while back. Thanks in advance, Jason

Camano, Thanks for all the info. I knew it was an involved process, but had seen some makers state that they hand stuffed their items. It seems to me that if you used a heated neatsfoot / bees wax mixture that it would just oil the leather well, instead of actually changing some of the temper and over-all feel. David - I have to use my dryer for its intended purpose - but I'm willing to bet it would survive one go-round, but I don't wanna be the guy to clean it up. I may still have to try the simplest option just to see how that compares with regular oiling. Thanks again! Jason

Hey all, I was curious about how I could hot stuff my own veg tan just to see what the results would be like, but a couple searches have turned up no additional information on how to do that. In fact - if you do a search for hand hot stuff leather on Google, some "interesting" info emerges! lol Anyways - if any of you can provide any info - I'd greatly appreciate it. What kind of oils to use, the process, etc. Thanks, Jason

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll give it a go with it dry first just to see how that goes.

Thanks for the replies - I am using the red label. I have played around with alot of different time frames on waiting to let it set and even then it doesn't stick very well. On the other hand, I have used two types of calf skin that stick nearly immediately. I'll keep patience in mind with this, but I was getting frustrated! Jason

All, I have resolved this issue in my own way, but am curious as to why this is happening. I am using hand dyed veg tan from Wickett and Craig with a drum dyed goat skin. Both pieces of leather are completely dry and I apply the cement (Weldwood) and let set for no more than 5-10 minutes. I apply this relatively heavily - enough so that both flesh sides have darkened from the cement. I put the pieces together - use a roller pin to ensure a good fit. However, two hours later - in one case, even a day later the pieces will easily come apart. I have solved this by simply adding another layer of cement to the one that has dried - about 30 minutes or so. I'm curious as to why this is happening in the first place. Both leathers are highly cementable but certain liners do not stick well - both chrome and veg tan. Is the cement being absorbed by the leather and this is causing there not to be as much surface contact? Any tips would be helpful. Thanks! Jason

Hey guys, I see alot of makers choose to use bridle or harness leather for small pocket items like wallets, pouches, etc. Has this always been a standard practice or is this something new because people don't like working around some of the obstacles that natural veg tan brings? It seems almost an oxymoron to take a leather designed for a equestrian trade and then split it down to 3 oz or thinner just so you don't have to dye and / or condition the leather? Or... am I completely off on that observation? Thanks in advance, Jason

I couldn't find a solution to this problem, so I'll post it here. I have an issue using carnauba creme to buff after dyeing. Regardless of the wait time (2 hours - overnight), when I go to buff the leather with the creme, it leaves green / metallic staining. This only occurs on light to medium color dyes - diluted fiebings medium brown to be exact. Anyone know what's causing this? Thanks in advance, Jason

Like the others - stitching is solid - at that SPI, .6mm thread looks very sturdy. Nice work.

Nevermind. Mr. Einstein finally realized that can pull together because its cut apart on that section of the frame. Done deal. Thanks for the inspiration.

How is the center seam pulled together? What I mean is that it would seem like this would shorten the frame unevenly. I haven't played around with it yet, but don't the edges of the interior still remain wider than the center portions?

Hey All, I want to make a first attempt at a long or mid wallet. I've seen this construction a hundred times over but haven't been able to completely get what's going on with it. Is the interior "frame" one piece of leather that has the "center" cut out to attach the pockets or is there more than one piece? See attached - thanks in advance! Jason

Here's the final product on this one. The cement is still setting. All in all, it turned out well. If I had to do it again, I'd make the straps thicker.

Nice Paul - that case looks great! Just for the record, the case requested is a Bible cover / ipad holder. The guy wanted to use the iPad while studying and have it all fit into one model. I've mocked up a model that doesn't look cumbersome. I'll post a pic once I finish it. This will definitely be a one off project though.

I'm going to give it a go with weldwood. I've had excellent results using it with liners. If that fails - I'll try some tanners bond.

My Nook case has the plastic clips. If you feel the interior, the case is actually assembled around the clip which feels like its in a T shape. Dwight's case looks great. I'm going to cement a shell onto a scrap piece, let set over night and see how much abuse it can take before coming off. I'll post my findings in the "why am I doing this?" section if the forum! Jason

Thanks Tom - I was going to ask about that too. I bought a couple shells to play around with - contact cement seems like the most reasonable option.

Hey guys, I had a request for a book like ipad case that will hold one of the hard shell cases. There was a member here that attached one to the leather and now I can't find that post. Would rivets be a way to attach the case? I'm curious if they will make the case no longer fit the tablet. I would also appreciate any other ideas. Thanks!

I'll give those tips a go. I was also wondering if it was the black dye. I've heard that black spirit dye can be pretty harsh and difficult to manage, but I'll oil up before I dye next time. Thanks!

Hey guys, I made a search last night and couldn't find what I was looking for. I have two sides of 4-5 oz veg tan that are very dry, but otherwise clean - both front and back, and would like to get the most out of it. My main issue is alot of curling once dyed - even after creme and oil, it still curls up. The other issue is that my edges look "crispy" once the project is completed. I've attached a pic, so you can get the idea. Can I oil the leather prior to dyeing - will that even solve anything? Thanks! Jason

Just wanted to post that the Arbor Press came today and it solves my problem perfectly. I bought the 1 ton from Zoro as posted earlier and it fits my forks perfectly. I won't have to modify the press or my tools for the time being. Thanks for all your help!

Strigamort, I have a couple overstitchers and they do their job just fine - its the consistency I'm trying to get down. I'm going to order a 1 ton arbor press and see how I can manage with it. I don't mind taking the time to pry out the pricking fork. Afterall you're going to be doing that using those anyways. I just need to keep my apartment from sounding like a construction site! I'll let you guys know how I get along with it.

Papaw, I've only been at this for a couple months and I used on awl on a couple test projects and my stitching always looks terrible - uneven and the leather stretches where the seam is made. I was going to stick with it until I watched an Ian Atkinson (Leodis Leather) video talking about the awl and if he says he doesn't like them, I'm comfortable with opting out. I know all the "old timers" say to use an awl and stitch with it in hand, but its incredibly time consuming my work is always crap - which it will be at this point! It seems crazy to use a press just to make the holes, but right now it might be a good option. Jason

Getting closer every post - I think I might go with the one you have posted and see how that goes. Thanks for the help guys! Jason

Bob, I'm in the US. I was checking them out. All my pricking forks are 4 to 4.5 inches. I think the one ton will have enough room for them, without me having to cut them down. Jason