Mungo

Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks, I’m going to try it.

I’ve been searching the forums about mold on leather. It seems some people use Listerine in their casing water, I assume to prevent the mold from starting in the first place. Does it work? I’ll probably use an antique dye so I don’t think discoloration would be a problem. I’m thinking about doing a western scene which would take several days to tool. It would be stored damp, in a sealed bag, and in my fridge between sessions. Thank ye kindly.

Thanks for the replies!

I tooled out a thin piece of leather that I had used painters tape on the back (flesh side). When I removed the tape it pulled up the fibers something awful. It looks like a grizzly bears back now. How can I return to the smooth condition it was before? I don’t have a glass burnisher but I can get one if needed. Would a burnisher damage my tooling?

Do you use wax on linen thread? Thanks

I was thinking about making a western holster as authentic as possible so linen would probably be the best thread. Thanks for the replies.

I ‘ve never used linen thread but I may try it on a project in the near future. Why would you use linen instead of nylon or polyester? Does it have benefits over the newer man-made threads?

Thanks everyone

When you bevel the edge of leather do you do it while it’s still cased or dry? I can never seem to do a good job and I’m thinking of buying a better edger to see if that’s the problem. When I got a good swivel knife (and blade) it made a huge difference in my carving. Then again, maybe I need a lot more practice.

Update I followed the given advise from yall and it turned out great. I used a 50/50 mix of Resolene and it is not too shiny after all. I think using a too-small test piece of leather gave the illusion of too much shine. Anyway, thanks again.

Thanks everyone.

This is my first time using Resolene so I tried it on scrap pieces first.The first piece received straight undiluted resolene and the second I diluted 50/50 with water. The undiluted was definitely too shiny for my taste and the second was less so, but I would like it to be a little less shiny. Can you dilute it even more and get good results? Thanks

Thanks again.

I mostly make items using the above mentioned thicknesses. I’m considering getting a more expensive edger than I currently own and want to get one for these sizes right now and maybe add others later on. Thanks

Thanks. I think I’ll go ahead and try it.

I’m making a belt and I’m trying to decide which finish to use, SnoSeal or a clear finish from Tandy. Considering that the belt will be flexed constantly and be subjected to the weather and rough use by a kid I’m wondering which would be best. Any thoughts? Thanks

Has anyone applied a finish over Angelus paint? I have Tandy Professional Finish on hand and trying to decide whether to use the finish or SnoSeal. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I’ll be using those suggestions in the future.

I tried using wet cotton swabs. It helped a little, but not enough.

Sometimes after I’ve sewn my leather work the threads pick up the dye and appear dirty. Is there a way to clean them to make them nice and white again?

Would anyone happen to have a crossdraw pattern for a right-handed person? Thanks

Thanks for the reply Fred!

I have some extra leather I need to store for maybe a year. I was thinking I might apply neatsfoot oil, let it dry for a couple of days, and then put the pieces in a cardboard box. Would this work?

Thank you both! Very helpful.