Mungo
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Everything posted by Mungo
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Thanks for the replies!
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I tooled out a thin piece of leather that I had used painters tape on the back (flesh side). When I removed the tape it pulled up the fibers something awful. It looks like a grizzly bears back now. How can I return to the smooth condition it was before? I don’t have a glass burnisher but I can get one if needed. Would a burnisher damage my tooling?
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Do you use wax on linen thread? Thanks
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I was thinking about making a western holster as authentic as possible so linen would probably be the best thread. Thanks for the replies.
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I ‘ve never used linen thread but I may try it on a project in the near future. Why would you use linen instead of nylon or polyester? Does it have benefits over the newer man-made threads?
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Thanks everyone
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When you bevel the edge of leather do you do it while it’s still cased or dry? I can never seem to do a good job and I’m thinking of buying a better edger to see if that’s the problem. When I got a good swivel knife (and blade) it made a huge difference in my carving. Then again, maybe I need a lot more practice.
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Diluting Resolene
Mungo replied to Mungo's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Update I followed the given advise from yall and it turned out great. I used a 50/50 mix of Resolene and it is not too shiny after all. I think using a too-small test piece of leather gave the illusion of too much shine. Anyway, thanks again. -
Diluting Resolene
Mungo replied to Mungo's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Thanks everyone. -
This is my first time using Resolene so I tried it on scrap pieces first.The first piece received straight undiluted resolene and the second I diluted 50/50 with water. The undiluted was definitely too shiny for my taste and the second was less so, but I would like it to be a little less shiny. Can you dilute it even more and get good results? Thanks
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Thanks again.
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I mostly make items using the above mentioned thicknesses. I’m considering getting a more expensive edger than I currently own and want to get one for these sizes right now and maybe add others later on. Thanks
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Thanks. I think I’ll go ahead and try it.
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I’m making a belt and I’m trying to decide which finish to use, SnoSeal or a clear finish from Tandy. Considering that the belt will be flexed constantly and be subjected to the weather and rough use by a kid I’m wondering which would be best. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Has anyone applied a finish over Angelus paint? I have Tandy Professional Finish on hand and trying to decide whether to use the finish or SnoSeal. Thanks
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Thanks for the replies. I’ll be using those suggestions in the future.
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I tried using wet cotton swabs. It helped a little, but not enough.
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Sometimes after I’ve sewn my leather work the threads pick up the dye and appear dirty. Is there a way to clean them to make them nice and white again?
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Would anyone happen to have a crossdraw pattern for a right-handed person? Thanks
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Thanks for the reply Fred!
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I have some extra leather I need to store for maybe a year. I was thinking I might apply neatsfoot oil, let it dry for a couple of days, and then put the pieces in a cardboard box. Would this work?
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Thank you both! Very helpful.
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Can a stitching groover be sharpened or do you just buy a new Grooving blade?
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Finished the bandolier
Mungo replied to Mungo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks max. I got a painful case of bursitis from hammering all those rivets. I’ll be getting a hand press for sure. -
Thank you for the reply. I’ll get one before I use a bunch of rivets again.