PSBond

Something of a necropost, but as it's associated... I've just bought an SD28. It has a needle, it's threaded per the instructions (although I'm using it dry, not through gum trag). Still having a bit of trouble with adjusting the thread tension (either pulling the bottom thread through or ending up with looping under the leather), but I think I'll crack that. What I don't know is what the thread numbering in the manual equates to - I've got a #5 or #6 needle (well, the front plate is a 5/6) which according to the manual runs a 4, 5 or 6 thread. I've seen somewhere else that #7 needles are large, so that would mean the thread sizes don't tally with what I'm used to (larger numbers, finer thread). The other question at the moment is - is there a top plate that doesn't have the toe that runs in the opposite groove? Can't quite tell from the parts list. Actually, thinking about it - is there an idiot guide to refurbing one of these? Or should I just email Henry?

And the answer to that question is "many". Check this out - http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ak47+bayo...e+number+406023 6 pages of scumbag spammer.

I've seen this post on another forum too. From a user with no post history. Wonder how many other copies of it are around? Cynic that I am, is this just an advertising attempt?

More of Schwert's from Outdoor Magazine: Eight-string round edge braid - http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?article350 http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?article351 Baldric - http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?article339 Knife lanyard - http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?article159 http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/spip.php?article160 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2134 Not Schwert: http://www.frayedknotarts.com/tutorials/BrewLanyard.html As for the last one, if you google for "sartan leather braiding tutorial" you should find it.

Schwert's got a few tutorials around on braiding that are really good; there's at least one other I know of but I'm not going looking for it on a work computer - bit too adult for our filters.

I do that on handstitched - backstitch a couple of holes (and both threads coming out of the back face of the item), then cut & add a drop of glue with a toothpick. Have to be careful not to use too much or it soaks into the leather & looks awful! Whether it is really needed on handstitched items, I'm not convinced - it's more of a security blanket than anything. Machine stitch on the other hand might benefit more from it?

Here's how I made mine: 2 circles of 7-8 Oz leather (er... 3-3.5mm?), diameter as applicable. (around 10" was not a bad size for general silver work, engraving and the like). Stamp name on before assembly! I glued up the perimeter 1/2" or so, leaving a gap of about 1 1/2" for filling. 2 parallel lines of stitching (mine were grooved first with a compass race, nice but not all that neccessary) about 5-6mm apart, probably 6mm in from the edge, staggered start (probably not needed, but good practice I felt); leave the gap unstitched for now. Case the leather, bag it & pop it in the fridge overnight; remove the following day and fill. I used silver sand from B&Q - BUT (and this bit will make life much easier) - dry it in the oven first. Trying to stuff these with damp sand is a PITA... Tuck a funnel into the gap between the discs, pour the sand in and pack it in as densely as you want (less densely packed makes for a good surface for forming metals into). A stick can be handy to poke in the sand when it sticks in the funnel. Finally, finish the stitching, trim the threads and let it all dry out properly; I gave mine a very light coat of neatsfoot oil which seems OK, but others work just as well without the oil (and perhaps some of the metal chips don't catch as much on the surface as a result). HTH!

Depends what you mean by "not good"...? Edge holding on *decent* high carbon, properly heat treated stainless is phenomenal; edge holding on marine-grade stainless is non-existant. Personally, I enjoy making (and using) blades made with non-stainless steels; they're frequently easier to sharpen in the grades I like. As for head knives, I've got a few these days - even a cheap one, properly sharpened, is miles better to use than a Stanley knife/box cutter/Exacto. I only switched to using them a couple of years ago, and I wouldn't go back - I can cut small areas, long dead-straight cuts, skive... All without picking up another tool. Just so long as the thing is razor sharp - and is kept in a suitable sheath for safety!

I've melted bits of one or two plastic folders so far in burnishing enthusiastically... Haven't managed to do that with my bone folder. Other than that, I find the bone more tactile in use; no idea why, but I prefer handling it to the plastic. As far as cost goes, I bought the contents of a saddler's workshop a wee while back. I was surprised not to find a folder in the tools - until I realised that the broken tableknife in amongst them had a bone handle, so was probably used as an edge burnisher. Works nicely too.