Historicalbeltworks

Sorry for the delayed response I went and decided to have myself a heart attack which I’ve recovered from, but that was a scary experience. To answer your question generally, I do not oil the leather before I dye it.

Good morning my fellow experts, I have an issue and I don’t know what to do about it. I’m using fiebings black antique, brand new jar. I’m applying it over fiebings light Brown pro dye on veg tan Leather, with Angeles 600 as my topcoat. It looks perfect when it’s applied. Looks pretty good day 2, but by day 3 it’s lightning up and turning gray. My only thought is to put a top coat finisher on it almost immediately, but before I start possibly ruining the project, I would like to have some opinions. FYI, I bought a second jar of the black antique with the same results. Thank you everyone.

Needle position will probably work. Thanks guys. I am probably going to sell the 669, and just go to a cobra class 4P. I’m really overworking the 669 anyway it can handle 10-12oz fine, but I’m really pushing it if I get to like 16. It seems like over the last couple of years. I’ve been using thicker and thicker material, so I really need to upgrade my machinery. But in the meantime, since that’s not gonna happen tomorrow, I’ll work on the needle positioning for the machine. I really appreciate all the feedback and help.

669 from Weaver Leather

I need to change the hand wheel to a larger one, I’m starting to get a blister from cranking it for the right needle position :), it’s just too small. Can someone point me in the right direction to get a new larger wheel or one with a handle? Thanks.

I come from the Doug Monroe school of applying finishes, and as such have use the 600 for a couple of years. Lately, as my work has become a little more complicated, I am noticing as I apply to finish it’s turning white during the application process, which is the result of little tiny bubbles. That itself wouldn’t be so bad, except that on some of the projects, especially black ones, those bubbles had a tendency of making the black finish look almost ghost like or silvery, which we do not want. I am obviously applying it incorrectly for whatever reason, and I would like some help please on what others would recommend I try. I usually use a piece of old T-shirt wrapped up really tight, so I get an even smooth surface that doesn’t end up down in the cracks of my work for when I apply the antique. This has worked for a long time, but isn’t working now, that, or I had not noticed until now. Thank you.

Hi guys, Every source I have for the Angelus 600 in the 32 ounce or the gallons is out of stock. I really can’t afford to buy cases of the 4 ounce bottles. Since I can’t get the 600, and there are many other Angelus acrylic finishers, like gloss, satin, 620 etc. is there a reasonable substitute for the 600? Thanks.

Thanks for the input. I was using HO exclusively and was not having any problem with it until recently. I always use same leather on all projects. Although the weaver select was lighter, i’ve never had this much disparity before. I guess I’ll just try and only use darker colors with the HO and use the import hides for the lighter colors. Thanks again.

I guess everyone is as confused with this problem as I am. FYI, I’ve never had to deglaze Herman oak leather before, But I tried that and it only made it worse.

Hi guys, I need some information from one of you serious experts who have been using Hermann Oak leather and Fiebings Dye for longer than I have. Recently over the course of the last couple of weeks I have gotten four hides of H.O. leather, in various thicknesses. I’m using a fiebings Turquoise alcohol die, and it seems to work on every leather except the Herman Oak. It does not come out even slightly bluish, it comes out brownish green. Nothing even close to the color it should. Or the color it has come out in many hides past. The leather on the left is Herman Oak, the leather on the right is some Weaver Select. Someone please tell me why, before I go broke buying Leather I can’t use.

Thanks for the info guys I got a couple things now I’m gonna try I’ll let you know if it works or if it doesn’t.

Hey guys, I have a question. I did apiece for a customer, and he’s decided he wants like 20 more. It’s a small thing, but I don’t want to retool the same thing 20 times. Any thoughts on reproducing a piece of tooled work, such as making a mold and pressing in my clicker? I’d like to avoid the appearance of just having a stamp made and then pressing them out. It looks a bit to sterile for me. Thanks

I have a purse and handbag company next to me that has boxes and boxes of damaged goods, and they’ve offered the job to me to repair and replace a lot of straps. I assume there has to be a folder that does what the attached pictures do, can anyone tell me where to get it or if there’s a better way to do it? Thanks.

That’s what I’ve had to do to reduce the brutal drag.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking because I’m cutting the crap out of mine. I have both a restaurant supply near me as well as a plastic company. I’ll check them. Thanks

Yeah that’s what I’m using right now and it really drags The blade for me. Maybe it’s just my attack angle.

Hi people, a question for you all. Most of the cuts I have done over the course of the last several years has been a combination of various cutting implements. Recently I’ve become much more proficient using a round knife, and it has now become my cutting instrument of choice. However the cutting mat that I currently have, puts an undue amount of drag on the knife edge. The mat that I am using is a 3‘ x 6‘ rolling knife mat that I picked up at Joanne fabrics a couple years ago. I think it is just too soft for use with the round knife. What do you guys use for ease of blade flow as it rides on the surface while cutting your leather? Thanks for the help.

You guys are great :). I’m going to try them all. I’ll let you know how it works tomorrow

As I get older, I’m finding it hard to spend the time necessary to tool for any long period. I have come to the conclusion that the tiny shafts on my shaders and such are the problem. Wrapping them in masking tape aside, has anyone had any luck with After market products for improving or enlarging the grip on their tools? Thanks.

I have done a lot of restoration, tack, and belt work, but never really any tooling. Any one know of a class or two offered on the subject? Maybe a few hours of one on one time, help me get the right technique? (I don't expect it to be free) I know it's about the practice, but I don't want to start on the wrong foot. I don't mind driving, but let's limit it to California and Arizona. Thanks.

" These large production shops get price breaks most leatherworkers would be amazed at." I dream of those kind of things How I miss the days of $2 buck a foot latigo, doesn't seem that long ago. Still I have bought hides straight from Hermann Oak, 30-40 at a time, and the price break was so little compared to buying them from Weaver or Panhandle, I have always wondered how those companies make any money reselling the Hermann Oak hides. I would be curious to see the pallet pricing if I knew where to find it. On another note: You are totally right Ken that "You have to strive to control your overhead" It was why I was concerned that the quality of Hermann Oak might be slipping. I used to use it exclusively. Now with all that said, Weaver's Chahin leather is a pretty darn good leather for the price. It has that broken in feel out the gate which is really nice for a number of projects. ALD has it once in a while, but perhaps that is one of the major reasons to stay with Weaver is the "reliability of availability" It is pretty rare I ever order anything and have it out of stock, and if it is, it gets back in stock quick. That means a lot when you are doing custom orders, and have a deadline.

I have yet to receive a letter, I wish I would, I'd like to know exactly what the heck is going on. As for me, I do buy a lot from them, maybe it's why I have not received a letter. But I also have to agree with Bruce on a couple issues, regardless of a letter. Their quality, in the leather department is slipping. Now that might not be fair, they are not a tanner, so perhaps I should be complaining about Hermann Oak. However, they are ultimately responsible for what leaves their warehouse. Sizing has been short, consistency in thickness has been really off, shape and usability has been horrible at times. Heck I've gotten better hides from the discount "branded" imported hides they sell than the "top of the line" Hermann Oak leather. Now I've always liked their customer service, but in this economy price dictates more than it used to. I am going to begin a serious shopping around for better leather.

Well I tried to load a picture

Here's a picture so you have an idea . BTW, where in Louisville do you find good Latigo?