Wyowally

It won't hold up sewing leather any better than that Elna you were considering. 7 oz. chrome tan it might swallow for a while, but eventually it won't be happy and you won't be either.

No. That is a nice and respected vintage machine - but still just too light duty for what you want to do. My wife owns one, and it is well designed and manufactured. I suggest spending some time reading the threads and posts on here, particularly Wizcrafts post in this forum on the type of machines suited to sewing leather.

Oh, I think it is legit. As a very successful owner of one of these things, I've spent a lot of time getting mine right and trying to help others. There are many people with limited leather and sewing experience who buy them hoping they are a shortcut to getting away from hand sewing, or will help them get started on the cheap. There is a lot of frustration and disgust expressed by those hoping for plug and play. I believe our poster is legit and sincere, and just trying to tap whatever resources can be found to get it going. Success depends on the person and attitude, willingness to learn and listen and spend the time it takes. Many machines have been dumped or trashed. Others have been turned into smooth working motorized acceptable units by those with a lot of patience, money, and ambition. I haven't gone that route - mine does the limited non-production work I want without trying to make it something it is not. I try to follow advice from a friend - "just stay in your lane". !

I get scraps from a saddlemaker friend frequently. I made some cartridge holders, and learning the loops for different size cartridges is challenging. What I did find out - and should have known - is that you've got to be careful about long term storage. Some of the chemicals in the leather will start corrosion on brass cases. It takes a while, but will start sucking the copper out of the brass. Not good!!

I actually bought a new replacement eccentric just so I could understand how they're designed to work. Never had to install it though.

I use that Coats thread that was posted with a price earlier. That's about twice or more what I pay, BTW. $3.79 a spool if I buy 3.

I commend you for your approach and attitude about learning. I'm sure you will progress quickly. The advice you get from the regulars here is spot on! I know from my own experience. You found the right place - I see so much misinformation and bad advice in some of the FB groups that I just shake my head, now that even I know better.

I did get aftermarket decals. Not exactly original, but close enough for me.

They do have a little foot that comes down the back of the presser foot and helps pull material somewhat, so that makes them a little more capable vs. the plastic shell price leaders being sold today. Still, they are what the others on here have told you. There is a "vintage Pfaff sewing machines" FB group that is pretty active. It is discussed there. They have manuals in their Files section too.

I am smiling because it seems that there are no real adjustment instructions. If it kicks out when you don't want it to when sewing nothing out of the ordinary - then tighten it up a little. If it still kicks out, tighten it some more. If it doesn't kick out when you break a needle or get one of those multiple thread tangles around the bobbin/hook - loosen it up some and hope it works. At least that's what I have found out so far. YMMV.

I never asked for specifics on the actual adjustment in that thread. I do have it cleaned, aligned, and lubed and it does disengage with what I think is adequate force after that and backing the adjustment screw way off. Just find it sort of amusing that the manufacturers who will specify something like "0.35mm clearance" have provided an adjustment without actual adjusting instructions. For this machine I will set it so it trips when a #25 needle hits 1/2" of hard veg tan when trying to force the needle through with the hand wheel. I'll report in this thread on that experiment.

I got the Adler 167-gk373 working pretty well after all the feedback from you folks. Thanks! I think the safety clutch was the culprit - not releasing easily or as designed. I have searched here and elsewhere on what the trip settings should be - as in if there is a need to adjust, how to do that. Is there an actual torque number, or is it more a ballpark range sort of thing? Maybe back it way off to the soft side, then if it trips too easily when just sewing on tough material with big needle and thread - tighten it up a little? Or put a block of wood under the needlebar (without needle), then adjust to trip when turning with the handwheel with what seems like too much force? I hope that explains my question. The machine mentioned did have the clutch locked up, so the needlebar moved in the clamp, the screw tips got hardened and polished to where the clamp wouldn't hold well when doing normal sewing. Fixed that. Thanks again.

Interesting data and manual if indeed that's the OP's machine. IF it is, the manual says that thread tension will be released when the thread trimmer does it's thing. The cable is related to that trimmer, and is part #36 in the listing, calling it a "thread tension release wire". IF it is the machine, the wire doesn't come into use until the trimmer is used then. Now if I could just learn to sew.

What Wiz says for sure. I was dealing with a similar issue on a different model not long ago. Just for giggles I hand threaded a #23 leather needle with 138 bonded nylon. Then I put the needle butt down on my bench and pushed a couple pieces of 4 oz. veg tan down on the needle point. It took a LOT of force! After it went through I pulled it back a little and put another thread through the loop. Then started pulling the needle back up while holding the leather down. Again, it took an amazing amount of force to pull the needle, loop, and "bobbin" thread back up and into the leather. There is a huge amount of friction - I think the forces involved are much more than at least I was aware. What it all means to me that if the needle is not large enough for the thread, then the thread will suffer. 92 bonded nylon with the same needle was a much better match.

45 mm. It takes a different belt of course. I measured carefully and guessed belt size with the counter guy at my auto parts store. Made a lucky guess. Pulley from AMZ.