Wyowally

Between the discs on top, not just laid across them. Make sure threaded correctly the rest of the way.

Probably no help, but here goes: My first tabled, clutch motor machine was a Necchi BV. These had the head imported, then installed with a US made induction motor in a table. The old induction clutch motor had lubrication holes - but the motor was installed with the holes on the bottom! The old bushings were shot, I machined and installed oilite bushings. Not silent, but pretty quiet, and I can manipulate the clutch for slow sewing.

What kind of needle? Round holes in stiff leather pinch the thread. If you are using a leather needle, just ignore me!

I have found what they call an "embossing mini heat gun" very useful for heating stuck parts without flame involved....

After some experience with filthy horse blankets, I charge almost double if they aren't clean. The cleaning after takes more time than the repair, and that filth goes everywhere.

The bouncy check spring issue is all related to size and type of top thread, and EXACTLY where the bobbin case tab is positioned by the bobbin case opener. IF off just a little, the upper thread will hiccup as it passes by the tab when being pulled up, but not really stopped. Just enough to make the spring bounce. Until recently I was trying to measure opener clearance precisely. Now I set it by watching the thread as it is getting pulled past the tab, with stitched material under the foot, cover open, turned by hand. Works for me.

Most of the brakes are adjustable or modifiable for when they engage and how much they engage - with a little effort. Others on this forum might have the best ways of doing that. They can be set to stop movement especially if wanting to stitch slowly. Adjusted that way, it won't dead stop things if stitching fast though.

Now I am wondering how change the eccentric or the linkage coming from it could have changed the timing. The timing was very good when the presser foot quit lifting. Puzzled.

Spent a little more time. There are some adjustments procedures hidden in a couple of the manuals available today. What I have discovered is there are relationships between the eccentric, the big head pinch screw linkage, the lifting bracket position, the bottom clamp the flat spring pushes against and the two feet positions and action. I actually got both feet lifting decently. Somehow, without touching the hook timing, it is now way out. I am leaving it all alone for a while!

I'm more frustrated than embarrassed, so here goes. I got this machine a few years ago and totally went through it, including priming, painting and proper decals. It was and is a great machine and I learned a lot. I got a lot of that learning help right here, thank you! Fast forward : I have done several projects each year since, as I am a hobbyist, not a production guy. A few days ago the presser foot quit lifting. I'm sure I did something wrong, left a screw loose, etc. I got my manuals out, re-visited Uwe and YT, checked this forum for history. I spent four hours this morning trying to get it back The puzzle to me is understanding mechanically what even makes that foot lift at all. It is obvious that the mechanical linkage raises the center vibrating foot - not obvious to me at least what raises the presser in each cycle. I have adjusted the eccentric and the vertical travel. I don't know where to set the small block that the tip of flat spring rides on. I have moved it up and down quite a bit. Likewise the topmost clamp guide thing - not sure where to set it. It appears its only function is to guide and keep things straight. The clamp screw on the back that holds the tension release mechanism on - is it supposed to be tight, or loose enough for the presser bar to move inside? If it is supposed to be tight, where on the presser bar should it be? I have a new replacement eccentric but never got into removing the main shaft. The old one works, but it was missing a set screw - not the major one that pins it to the shaft, but one of the pair that "locks" the adjustment. I hope that's not too much information. Thanks!

It won't hold up sewing leather any better than that Elna you were considering. 7 oz. chrome tan it might swallow for a while, but eventually it won't be happy and you won't be either.

No. That is a nice and respected vintage machine - but still just too light duty for what you want to do. My wife owns one, and it is well designed and manufactured. I suggest spending some time reading the threads and posts on here, particularly Wizcrafts post in this forum on the type of machines suited to sewing leather.

Oh, I think it is legit. As a very successful owner of one of these things, I've spent a lot of time getting mine right and trying to help others. There are many people with limited leather and sewing experience who buy them hoping they are a shortcut to getting away from hand sewing, or will help them get started on the cheap. There is a lot of frustration and disgust expressed by those hoping for plug and play. I believe our poster is legit and sincere, and just trying to tap whatever resources can be found to get it going. Success depends on the person and attitude, willingness to learn and listen and spend the time it takes. Many machines have been dumped or trashed. Others have been turned into smooth working motorized acceptable units by those with a lot of patience, money, and ambition. I haven't gone that route - mine does the limited non-production work I want without trying to make it something it is not. I try to follow advice from a friend - "just stay in your lane". !

I get scraps from a saddlemaker friend frequently. I made some cartridge holders, and learning the loops for different size cartridges is challenging. What I did find out - and should have known - is that you've got to be careful about long term storage. Some of the chemicals in the leather will start corrosion on brass cases. It takes a while, but will start sucking the copper out of the brass. Not good!!

I actually bought a new replacement eccentric just so I could understand how they're designed to work. Never had to install it though.