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About eblanche

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    New Member

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  • Location
    New Hampshire, USA
  • Interests
    lightweight outdoor gear

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  • Interested in learning about
    sewing and the machines involved
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. I know most on this thread have not had decent experiences lately, but I have to say, I was just shipped a crated up machine (to a commercial address) from Pennsylvania to New Hampshire and the process was smooth. From hanging up the phone after payment mid morning Thursday to delivery the following Tuesday mid afternoon. This includes the weekend which freight typically doesn't account for. The cost was IMO very reasonable and much less than estimated quotes from back in December. Total shipping/crating costs of less than $200. There is hope and the fact the vendor is working with you is a good sign. With the recent ongoings, it could very well be held up in a trailer just waiting for a truck to take it along. In my experience, you can't let up and keep trying to contact the necessary people. Talk to the right people and they'll find your machine and be able to tell you what the hold up has been.
  2. Two more great responses. Thanks all! Kgg, I think I simply want rather than need the functions an automatic gives me. Even with my Janome 6600p, I found myself manually doing the start/finish backtack for certain purposes and I have always needed to go back and further snip threads closer to the material. Never used the saved settings or any of the decorative stitches. For my purposes, an automatic electronic machine would save time for sure but nothing compared to the time savings in the expected factory setting. Needle up and down is most important to me. I can achieve this with a servo motor and other accommodations though.\ Thanks everyone and still any further response are welcome and appreciated!
  3. Thanks for the replies! I intend to use this machine primarily for lightweight woven nylons, polyester, mesh and laminates from .5oz/yd 7 denier and up. I do not plan on sewing leather. The other main function will be for lightweight outdoor backpack material. I do not intend to use thicker than v69 thread so am looking at the "light duty" configuration on this particular juki, suitable for #9-18 dbx1 needle size. I make lightweight outdoor down quilts and also backpacks. I do not do long production runs.Mostly one/two at a time type of work. I sometimes stitch one at a time but also often faster. I've heard of disconnecting the electronics for manual function but unless I know for sure, not something I'd want to think of a fail safe. This is my first "larger sewing purchase." I'm coming from a Janome 6600p quilting machine so a big change of pace here! The janome has a ton of functions and features and as a beginner, I have been spoiled. Maybe I should just learn the old school methods and actually improve my fundamental sewing skills?? Any thoughts are much welcome! I know there are quite a bit of members here who are familiar with these machines.
  4. Hey all, I posted a thread not long ago asking a bunch of questions and never received a response. I wanted to single out this specific question as it is more broad. I may have an opportunity to buy the machine I want. This machine (Juki 5410) is available as standard operation or with electronic automatic functions such as thread snips, backtack, etc. The machine I'm considering is an older fully automatic model with the electronics. How reliable are the electronics in the older industrial machines? I've been told by multiple sources that the older control panels are no longer made/serviced by Juki and buying an older electronic Juki should be a concern! Thanks and appreciate any insight, Eric
  5. Hey all, I've been in the search for a Juki 5410 and it seems not too much information is available out there online. Even more so true for the the older models! I quickly learned that this site has the most comprehensive information regarding different sewing machines and all you could know about them! After reaching out to many industrial dealers, I've also seen results discussed in the thread created earlier but have also had some good experiences with some folks. First and foremost, this machine would be for sewing lightweight 7d .5oz/yd nylons, polyesters, mesh, up to at most several layers of 8-10oz nylons/laminates. I would use from tex35-40 up to t70 bonded nylons. I know, not leather, but I come here because of the vast sewing machine knowledge. If I had all the means, I would search out a new Juki 5410n-7 (or 9010). I understand the newer (n) 5410 models come in different versions depedning on the weight of the material being used from light duty to heavy and jeans versions. I am specifically looking for the light duty version as I'm going to be using needles 9-18 with materials from 7d nylons and mesh to light weight backpack materials. The older versions seem to also be available so i have been looking at the 5410-6 as I prefer to have the auto features. My hesitation is that I can't find any information or instruction manuals regarding the older models and if they were offered in different weighted versions like the newer 5410 machines. I have an opportunity to purchase a 5410-6 within my budget but I'd like to confirm I'm getting the machine that suits what I'm looking for. Do the older 5410-6 Juki's have different variations like the newer ones? If this is so, how can I distinguish light from heavy on the older models without physically examining the parts? Something in the serial numbers? I also understand the different versions can be changed by swapping out just a few parts. Again, I'm not sure if this is also true regarding the older versions? Also can anyone give input as to the reliability of electronics in some of the older Juki industrial machines? Any insight would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
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