rgerbitz
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Posts posted by rgerbitz
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If you added more strings your V's would turn out the way you want. If I am braiding on something that I haven't done before. I will cut 4 more string than I think are needed. Then braid about 6 inches or so and see how it looks. If things don't close down I remove strings 2 at time till things look right. Make notes about strings size versus core size and carry on.
Rob
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I'm still at a loss as to how to explain running the 1st interweave outside, but as for the v's being straight, I have some suggestions. On my ground work I will often take a pen and divide things up into four quarters. Drawing the lines vertically. You can used those lines once the foundation is tied to help get every thing evenly spaced out around the knot and get the v's lined up before moving on.
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Hello Brent,
sounds like you could have gone to an 8 bight on that and been ok. But o3, and u3 has a nice look to it. As for turning back outside the foundation I'm not sure I can explain it but I'll try. When making the first pass, at the top, instead of crossing under 2 you would continue on up and cross over 2 before entering the foundation again. If I get some time soon I'll try and post some pictures.
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20 works just fine. So does 18 if 20 is a bit much. U3, O3, U3 .
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Leather reins: 8 plait - $500 - $800 depending on final dimensions. Add more for roo
Bosal: 8 plait body 24 plait nose - $250 - $450 depends on material and how you value your time
Bridle: I've never made one but I'd think you'd be in the same price range with the rein maybe more.
You'd need a quirt to finsh out a set: $150-$350
Course if it were a "complete buckaroo" set you'd want to have 3 or 4 different diameters of bosals, a snaffle bit head stall, and a couple of bridles for a half breed and a spade bit. Acouple pairs of reins and romals would be in order to. One for riding in the two rein and one for straight up. This would be on top of the paracord mecate rein for the snaffle bit rig.
A couple of cows or half a dozen kangaroos ought to be enough to get most of this cracked out.
You might just have her pay checks direct deposited into your bank account till you get it all finished up.
Rob
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James,
I never found any biker chap patterns. I have some shotgun patterns that I was going to alter for biker chaps. The only difference I could see in looking is that the front yoke area is more opened up, there is usually a thicker belt up front, the bottom part of the leg snaps instead of zips and they usually have some kind of lining in them. I saw a some that had platic pieces in the knees. I haven't made any new job is taking up alot of time right now.
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I will be unable to attend but would love to see a video of the talk you are giving.
Rob
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Great, thank you all.
Rob
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I have some, not so much fun to use, rivet setters. I am looking for some suggestions of some nice high quality setters. Any suggestions?
Thank you,
Rob
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When repairing saddles and you need to remove the rivets in the riggings or on the stirrups what do you use to get the little buggers out?
Thank you,
Rob
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Welcome aboard. Looking forward to the pictures.
Rob
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Total awsomeness. Thank you for taking the time to put this up. Where do you get the plastic burners?
Rob
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Dang, that is nice. I want to know how much to.
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I don't know about the knot, but my strings usually get thinned down to about 1.5/32 for knot strings. A little thinner if the knots are going to be smaller like on reins or bit hobbles.
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I would either try a 14 or 16 strand braid. I'd try 16 first and if that didn't work out you could either take out the 2 strings or add a few wraps of tape to your core to make it a little bigger. Or if you have a decent string cutter you could shave down your strings a little. In a 14 strand braid you can braid U2, O3, U2 or you can put the U3 on either end of the equation. I've done up some bosals with 14 strands. The only people who can tell are other braiders with nothing better to do but try and figure out a braiding pattern.
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Hello Ann,
Getting the foundation on can be a tricky at times. I have found that if I start out with my rawhide strings a little wetter than usual it helps to hold them in place. I often just try and get the foundatuon knot on in any way I can then go through and tighten and straighten everything up making sure all is even before continuing on to the interweaves. 8 bights are the handiest to work with on most heel knots.
Rob
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Something that has helped me get a little better at avoiding the bunching on the nose buttons. I cut string for the nosebuttons at the same width and thichness everytime. Then have gotten a decent feel for what diameters and lengths that size of string covers best. I drove myself half crazy trying to size my string to each bosal, when all I was really needing to do was length or short the ground work a little or add some more tape to increase the diameter a little to get things working out. I haven't perfected this yet, but I am avoiding moving into a full crazy state.
Rob
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I got the videos. Read the books. Read and looked at everything possible on the internet. Found some poor soul to fund the first 5 saddles, maybe 10. It is time to order the tree. The first 5 -10 will be going to trail riding deal on a time share resort. They have about a dozen medium to large framed quarter horses that are kept in decent flesh. What would everyone recommend for trees? Dimensions, makers, bars, etc.... Feel free Rod and Denise. They want quality materials. Workmanship may be a little iffy, but we are hoping to overcome that with quality materials.
Thank you all,
Rob
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I'd stick to using liberal amounts of white saddle soap, vaquero cream, or a like kind of stuff. And stay away from using much water. Work it in with your hands it will losen up most of the dirt, if it is real bad let it set for awhile then work with your hands again and wipe off any excess with a towel.
Rob
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I came across the receipt earlier. Viking Chemical Supply in Rockford Ill. is where I got mine last. Working hides with the sulfide can be a pretty lonely deal. Nobody wants to hang out with you when you smell of rotten eggs. My dog won't even stick around.
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Thank you Mike for taking the time on this.
Rob
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I have never split at a different angle than 45. I use to think that it would make a difference to have different angles available. I no longer feel that it would matter much. Most of that decision is based on conversations with other braiders and asking them if they ever used different angles. For blades I like the single edge blades that have the aluminum strip on the back side like what you'd use in a scraper. I strop the blade a little, pull the aluminum off, make a line on the blade edge with a marker, and cut till dull then move to a place where the marker hasn't been rubber off. Once all the marker has been worn off I throw the blade away. Brian Neubert gave the idea to me when I ordered the string cutter. Don't be sorry for the questions that's what this whole board is here for.
Thank you for asking,
Rob
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Hey Ben,
I had a hell of time trying to find it around here. I found a chemical supply place in Rockford, Il. They sell it by the 55 lb bag it was around $175. Using the Yellow Pages on the internet I pulled up chemical supply places with 75 miles of home. I had to call about 20 of them before I was able to find one that carried it in that amount. I had gotten some online from a photographry supply place, can't remember where. It was something like $15 for 2 lbs.
Good luck,
Rob
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I have used a Hansen style cutter/beveler, and currently have Bryan Neuberts. I liked the hansen because of the larger diameter stock it was made on. Bryan's works pretty good I think it is worth it. I like the way it adjusts. For splitters I use Tandy's High Tech splitter. There are better splitters out there than that but I get along with it.
First Set Of Hobbles
in Braiding
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Awesome.