megabit

Turned out ok. I hadn't really intended to make the nose button gaucho pattern but that's what I ended up with. Now if I can just figure out why. :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: Still need to cut my nose button strings a bit thinner still getting a little crowding.

I have been getting hides ready to cut from Bill Confer for my braiding. I have an opportunity to get one that's been removed and stuck in a freezer. Anyone ever work with a hide that had been frozen before being cured? I think I have been paying about $60 for a side or $90 for a whole hide ready to go. What would a frozen hide that needed all the work be worth? Thanks, Mike

So Alan, do you stretch your string before you do your final cut down or just cut and use it? I have done it both ways and can see where if you are splitting it much you are getting a bunch of stretching in too. Mike

Made another one tonight too. I like this one best yet:

Made these the other day.

While it is still wet pound the snot out of it with hardwood stick. If it has started to dry out add some moisture and pound it. Beveling will help a bunch too.

I believe Grant says to measure the circumference and make sure the sum of you strings is at least that. Seems I have found you want the sum to be a bit more than the circumference to insure you cover well. To work back to the core size from a string size just reverse the process. Grant's book (Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding) has most of the answers you need, finding and understanding them can sometimes be a challenge. Mike

I found out that lots of ring knots is called California and lots of pineapples in called Oklahoma. I knew that there was California and Oklahoma but didn't know that the actual pattern and knot count wasn't really defined. I am inclined to go with the Oky pattern as I think that would provide a bit more weight. I'll be braiding in rawhide of course. I'am thinking that 4 strands of fairly thick rawhide about a 1/4" should give me something about the same as a reata. If it can hold a cow it should hold my pony by the mouth with a spade bit. If by some freak deal I did break them I would still have a bosalita and a getdown rope to use.

Next big thing I want to tackle is a set or two of romal reins. I plan on ordering Hought's romal book for some guidance. I have 3 of her books and find them useful but frequently confusing. The very detailed over n under n around the end... gets tedious to me. It helped early on but now I would rather she made a clear break between the foundation knot and the interweave, so that it would be easier to just jump to the interweave. The list of needed materials and measurements are sure handy though. I am going to go a bit against the trend with this first set at any rate, I am planning on using 4 plait for the reins body. I want a using pair not a wall hanger. Ed Connell has a couple of drawings in "Bridles and Bits" and recomends 4 plait 42" with 18" of knots for using gear. I know there are several traditional knot patterns, is there a reference for the patterns anywhere? What do you guys mostly use for core? I don't know that I will use a core for the body at just 4 plait, I am think like a reata. The romal will be 8 plait though and should have a core. I think Nate Wald uses rounded leather like belting. What about a braided rawhide core? Thanks for your help, Mike

Very nice. I like the almar on the forehead. Mike

Ok, I missunderstood your fist post. I was thinking you were just going to tie the turkshead without wrapping it. I don't see where which knot you use would matter other than the shape you get to the ground work.

Like the other have said how the reins will be used has a good deal to do with it. For a traditional bridle horse in the spade or half breed with chains Ed Connell in Bits and Bitting recommends 42", with knots up the 1st 18" and a total romal length of 42". Most of the ones you see these days are longer than that but I think that or even shorter is a real good length if you are going to be roping with them. You get 50"+ reins and 60'+ of rope and it starts to get to be a bit much to deal with.

WOW! that is nice work. I have hard enough time braiding rawhide strings, I don't even want to think about trying it with hair.

The point of wrapping the body strings around the binding knot is so that it can't be pulled off the end later.

Thank you Clint.

Ok, last couple of pics. I added a Spanish Ring knot above the heel knot. Here it is at work:

I punch a large hole in the leather and run the hair thru it. Then I braid over that. Generally I do a ground work knot or two before the final button.

It is done! Well maybe I may add a Spanish ring above the heel knot if it proves to take too many wraps.(It is a little longer than planned.) Closeup on the heel knot:

Just need to add the burner to the honda.

Another step closer.

Well I guess I need to get started on the heel knot now. Hell this thing is almost done. :D

I have seen a simple turkshead or a pineapple used before. I think a gaucho knot would look good too.

Well I have the nose button on. It isn't perfect, but it doesn't looktoo bad for my first one. I wish my strings were about 1/32 to 1/16smaller. Here are a couple of pics, what do you guys think? Here is a progress picture of the nose button. Here it the nose button done.

Thanks for the tutorial. I was thinking of doing like a bosal nose button on it don't know that I feel up to the super skinny high string count fid work yet. It came Friday and other than having absolutely no edge on it I liked it (ohh it has a bit of an edge now, just not like a razor yet).

WOW sure wish my first project looked that good. You are off to a great start.