js2rt

For my cutting boards and wood bowls I start with 4 parts mineral oil an 1 part beeswax then add either more oil if I want it softer ow wax if I want it harder. I agree with the posters above that you need to add more oil. If it gets too soft you can always add more wax.

I get confused when people talk about sewing right handed or left handed with right or left priority. Is there an easy explanation for these terms? For example, looking at Stohlman's method where you are sewing towards you with the with the awl holes angled so that the upper end is away from you is it as simple as being right handed when the awl is in your right hand and left priority because the left needle comes through first? If not, what is it? Now if I change so that I am sewing away from me (awl is still in my right hand and left needle comes through first ) does either the handedness or the priority change? Does placing the right needle on top of the left instead of underneath it change anything?

Another option is a piece of glass and wet/dry sandpaper in the appropriate grits. Google "scary sharp" for the details. You could get a good start for $20 or so. If you don't want to buy the glass a piece of shelf with Formica on it is flat enough.

This link may help you see how the clamp is used. http://leathertools.jp/?pid=7738310

I got one of those grinders a couple of months ago to touch up the edges of knives or chisels. The stone will do that and the fiber wheel will polish it also. It doesn't have the torque you will need for the amount of material you want to remove. You can notice a significant slowing just sharpening an edge especially at the slower speeds. It does what I got it for. If I had the work you want done, I would get a good 6" grinder and use that. If I knew ahead of time that I was going to be doing a lot of sharpening, I would look for a 1750 rpm grinder instead of the more common 3500 rpm in order to minimize overheating the edges as they are sharpened.