Jump to content

seagiant

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    81

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by seagiant

  2. Posted · Edited by seagiant · Report reply

    Hi,

              Old sawblades are usually "L6" Steel.

    As was stated the critical temp for hardening is about 1550 degrees.

    Temper temp for a knife is about 350 degrees.

    To make the knife properly without forging, it is usually "normalized", ground or shaped and then quenched and tempered.

    I won't go into heat cycling, to reduce the grain structure, and other things custom knife makers use to make a better knife.

    Some people, spend their entire lives, learning about Knifemaking and the Heat Treatment of Steel!

    Custom shop made knives, are superior to commercial mass produced knives, for a reason!

    https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/saw-blade-steel-l6.108694/

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi

              I go there to get info on old machines or PDF copys of owners manuals.

    I now have the Delta 6" Jointer apart and I'm cleaning and painting.

    Replacing the old original bearings (New Departure) with new ones in the cutter head.

    I have a 1 HP motor to run it which will be plenty.

  4. Posted · Edited by seagiant · Report reply

    Hi,

               Nice jig and looks easy to make.

    Here is a link to the best vid I have seen on sharpening a round knife.

    I learned to sharpen knives as a kid, my Father never could figure it out?

    I was gifted a Tandy Stohlman Knife also and after rounding the back of the handle to get rid of the flat edge...

    And then sharpening, works very well for me!

    I use oilstones, instead of the more expensive diamond but the results should be the same.

     

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

            Thanks, Gentlemen!

    Here is a pic of the old 10" Craftsman, it is such a solid machine, I bought a Delta T2 Fence for it.

    Only has a 1 HP motor, but with a thin kerf blade does what I need, if I take it easy.

    The 14" Planer is a RYOBI (made in Japan) 80"s model, but still works great and I can sharpen the blades myself.

    I'm now rebuilding a, 50's Delta 6" Jointer, so have a few tools to do projects with.

    That Bama, Red Oak, is so solid and hard, you need tools that will work it!

    gyuuiiii.JPG

    4.jpg

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

             Thanks fella's!

    I thought about leather on the jaws but, I sandwiched sandpaper between the jaws...

    And, worked it, so the jaws are fit to each other pretty well, meaning, they hold the leather with equal force.

    This keeps anything from being marked!

    I had an old 80"s  small Craftsman Router Table to round the edges which helped and a old Craftsman 50's table saw.

    Not really, state of the art, but solid tools made when we actually produced quality in this Country!

    I'm going to make a sheath for my head knife to try it out!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

             I had some rough cut Alabama Red Oak, and decided to take a board of it and make a real adjustable stitching pony.

    It will adjust 2 ways and seems to work well.

    Not really a wood worker but it came out pretty good I think!

    No plans just looked at pics and went for it!

    aaa1.jpg

    aaa2.jpg

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

             I was given the Tandy "Al Stohlman" model round knife.

    The handle was a nice size but cut flat on the end, I rounded it on my belt sander and finished by hand and it is now comfortable.

    Sharpened it at about 15 degrees, using the tips from the Leather Wrangler on sharpening head knives.

    Went coarse, medium fine and finish with a soft Arkansas stone.

    Then stropped with a rogue impregnated leather board.

    Seems to work very well and better than my old Osborn?

    Time will tell!

    hhhhhhhh.jpeg

  17. Posted · Edited by seagiant · Report reply

    Hi,

              You can buy a decent, but cheap VOM/Multimeter from Harbor Freight, for about $10.

    Then go on U-Tube and type in how to use the different functions and how to find a short in the wiring.

    The other thing it might be is a bad, on/off switch or light switch if the machine has one.

    Cheapest way to go If you don't have a shop to take it to?

     

    hhhhhhh.jpg

  23. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, DreamFactory said:

     

    First of all, I sincerely appologize if I hurt your feeling. I thought you are trying to copy my invention.   Sorry about misunderstanding.  Please keep up the good work. 

    Sincerely,

    Lee Homyoung

    Hi

                 LOL!

    Lee you are talking to Americans here.

    We have invented or improved more things than the rest of the World put together!

    While I appreciate your workmanship, it is nothing that has not been done many times before in this country!

    Good luck with your endevours, but this ain't Rocket Science, just shop work!

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

               This was interesting!

    I forged knives for years, including pattern weld, cable san mai, and also the japanese "Hamon" quench techniques!

    I paid for my shop almost, selling knives made from a set of  1939 Studebaker leaf springs, I bought for $5!

    If you want to get in a real knock down drag out....

    Go to a Knifemakers meet or convention...

    And start talking about HEAT TREAT!!!

    Different steels will take a back seat!!!

×
×
  • Create New...