Yetibelle
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Posts posted by Yetibelle
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Typically it depends on how the Resolene sticks to the leather. I would not recommend using the oil and the acrylic at the same time. Neatsfoot oil is for adding back the natural oils to leather and helps it from drying out. Sometimes I mix it with the second coat of color dyes, it helps make the color more even. Then I will use a wax based top coat over that, but you need to let it dry for a few days, or the top coasts wont set well. The Resolene is a topcoat finish that protects the leather and gives it a little shine. This said once you top coat it with the acrylic you wont get much oil into the leather, also if you oil first then the Resolene wont stick very well.. For the masks I would stick with the Resolene,, or a wax based finish. You want them to hold there shape I think that would work better.
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It will not be worth it to take it apart and rebuild it. Replace it with a Servo sewing motor, it will save on electrically, give better control, and you will love it. In the US they are about $125.00
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I think it depends with the leather that you started with. Some hides take the dyes better than others. Eco-flow is an acrylic product so it will coat the top of the leather, but it wont last. I suspect on a belt it will rub off fast, and once it rubs off the black dye will then start to rub off on your pants. Look at the Fiebing dyes and finishing products, I find they set better.
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Bonded nylon and bonded polyester are similar and both should be resistant to the leather dyes. You can also get pre-coated wax thread, and that will hold the color. Or you can wax the thread as you go, same thing.
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I have a Singer 144W305 leather and canvas machine. It comes in the Industrial table and new servo motor. This machine has reverse and the boat foot. Message me with any questions.
It is located for pickup only in Minneapolis, MN. Asking $1550.00 cash.
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great collection. I hope it gets saved.
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Ok, yes it's not a sewing machine, but you all have vast knowledge, so I am asking. What is this game table called and have you seen one before? I consider myself talented at searching the internet, but I cant find any other example of this game? It's not a "pinball table", it's not a "pool table", its like a bagatelle game but with 2 players? The balls go up and smack then drop through the pins and land in the point slots? I am sure one of you will know! Thanks
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Oh-My ....That is like a sewing comedy act? That can't be real, he must be pranking us. I am crying a little I laughed so hard. He breaks out the digital thermal gun to check the water temp? HAHA. This is to much. He has so many rows, front stich, back stich....front stich... back stitch.... , - Sailrite should pay him to take this down.
"Once this thing dries out don't forget to treat it with glove oil, that's the way you do it".
Thanks for that it totally made my day!
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There are many Class 4 timing videos, while it may not be exactly the same as yours it is the same principle action to make a stitch.
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Well that sounds like a deal 5 machines for $2800 . If you get the model numbers you can then run a quick search on e-bay to see what they typically sell for.
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The concept of the Tippman is great, small footprint, heavy-duty machine, looks easy to use, sews really thick leather. The problem is that hand crank, I wish they would have made it a foot pump. That would have left both hands free to hold the project. If your looking for a inexpensive leather sewing machine (that comes working) go for one of the China 29K shoe patcher clones you can find on e-bay for a few hundred bucks. Just an idea.
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I am going to guess since the wires are cut they were trying to use it as a step down\speed reducer for the super fast clutch motor. I will guess it didn't work as planned since the pulleys are all about the same size
My second guess is they didn't have the correct size v-belt so they just put (2) small belts on since they had these left over parts.
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Do you have the subclass 45 machine parts your looking for?
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Thanks for the offer I think it would cost to much to ship it. I'm sure it's not light.
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WOW that looks nice. I would love one of the Class 7 treadles
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I agree the tension is off and needs to be tighter on the top, but it also looks like your using the wrong needle? Is that a leather needle?
I prefer the slanted point leather needle.
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Eye Protection -
You will want to pull/feed thicker test strips to test the limits. Totally understandable.
That sharp broken needle will aim right for your eye.
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Servo Motor or Clutch Motor? If it has not been serviced or updated with a new motor, factor that into your price.
The Servo motors run about $100-130, take less energy and can be clicked into slower settings for more control.
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Yeah that other listing for the Singer 11-13 is priced a little better than the BIG one. That's a 6 foot 6 inch deep throat. Someone needs to dig up the old factory video if this in action.
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Ok I was looking on e-bay for old parts and found this MONSTER. You have to see it to believe it.
eBay item number: 152090829134
Disclaimer: This is not my listing and I am not affiliated with the seller, or recommend this item in any way. I just thought it was interesting.
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Could you take one of your machines (441, 201, 144, Class 7, Landis 1, 97-10) and a scrap piece of leather and sew a few rows of each size and then place the needle next to each row and take a picture of that. This would be a great reference of what the larger machines are capable of, and what thread and needle combinations are possible. I assume that the 7X4 27 needle is the largest, but maybe someone on the forum has something bigger they can share? Thanks
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Hi, I have been looking for a "picture chart" that incudes the actual needle (size) and the thread (size) represented in a stitched row. So take a scrap of leather and sew a row of #92, next to the other size thread #138, then place the needle next to the each row. This way you can see both the needle and the row that it stitched. Like a Size 7x4 next to the row #415 thread. Does that make sense. I can only sew up to 135x16-(24) #207. So I was looking for someone who has the larger machines. So we can get a chart that has all of them for leather sewing in one reference. I am not sure what the largest combinations are, however I think it goes:
#92 #138 #207 #207 #277 #346 #415 #554 #624 #690
Let me know if that makes sense.
Thanks
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I think your going to need a Right Angle Binder/Folder attachment. You can search for an example on YouTube. I think it all depends on the seam you want and how thick the binding leather is? For thicker seams I would first glue and clamp it then just sew over it once it is set in-place.
Finishing a belt
in How Do I Do That?
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I found the feinbing USMC black is really black. Not the Feinbing oil dye work well also but the USMC black works really well. I let it set 30-60 minutes between coats, depending on the leather it may need 3 coats. Then I mix 50/50 with the black oil dye and neetsfoot oil and let it bake in the sun that helps even the dye over the project. I then let it cure for a few days before I put on a top coat. And then buff until the cloth is not pulling any dye.
Have you tried vinegaroon? Take clean pad of steel wool and soak it in water and let it slightly rust up in the sun then get a plastic old milk jug and put in half 4-5 cups white vinegar and put the rusty pad to soak in the garage for a week with the cap off so the gas will escape. It will rust up the vinegar. Strain it out after a week and then paint it on some leather. It smells but it naturally turns the leather black, and since it's not a dye it won't rub off. Then clean the stink off and seal or oil it. It's kinda cool.