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TOM123

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Posts posted by TOM123

  1. Posted · Report reply

    FYI: Linhanyl thread is no longer being imported into the USA. The importer-distributor quit, leaving many bulk buyers in the lurch. The only way to get Linhanyl thread now is to either buy what's left from a dealer who is lucky enough to have some in stock, or, to order 50 pounds of the same thread size and color in a box and do all the Customs paperwork. Linhanyl is headquartered in Brazil.

    Hay; just got my order of 346 thread from http://www.neelsaddlery.com/ and the tread was LINHANYL for $18.00 per lbs.

    you can call him at (330)692-1418

    Ryan Neel is very fast at shipping to you and very helpful on the phone

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Folks,

    Slightly OT here but need a bit of info..

    I have the same Landis/American 3 in 1 that TrooperChuck posted way back when on the first page of this thread. Mine is assembled with the feeding disk on top and forward of the cutting disk and gives the same "ridged" edge TC describes. How difficult is it to remove the feeding disk and cutting disk and swap their positions so that the feed disk is on the bottom (where I don't worry about the ridges)? Would I want to just remove the disks or would it be better to pull and swap the whole disk/shaft assembly?

    Also I was going through some PDFs I came across several years ago and one of them is what I'd describe as an old sales brochure for the Landis 5 in 1. Judging from the design and font used I'd guess it dates to sometime between the 50s and the 70s. Where would I want to post that up for others to view & hopefully benefit from?

    Thanks!

    The cutting wheels are just screwed on but I don't remember if the threads are right or left handed I haven't had mine apart for a long time, you should have a flat spot on two sides to put a wrench on, hold the handle with one hand and turn the wrench with the other.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    hi hobageeba;

    The feed is close to that used by the Boss stitcher.

    I seen one one you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZLHO9820zg it looks to be a good choice, but take some leather with you and ask if you can try it with the material that you need to sew (take plenty with you) give it a good run.

    Also look at the back side to make sure the stitches look good on both sides (pick it apart so to say) look for anything that might not be right and ask questions about every thing, you don't want to pay now and pay later to fix it.

    I bought 135k103 once that i did not run but was told it would not work, took it home and spent 5hours cleaning it up, checking it over, new oil----walla, it sews great (this machine was very dirty)

    So the best advice I can give you is to look very closely at it.

    good luck!!!!!

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hi JK,

    You could also look into ZACKS http://zackwhite.com or http://springfieldleather.com

    but stick with the oil base as the water base will come off with sweet or other water.

    there is a post here some where (could not find it) that tells the difference in the types of finishes but if you go to the DYES, ANTIQUES, STAINS, GLUES, WAXES, FINISHES and check out what others are doing---there is about as many ways to do finishes as there are post on this sight, good reading, good info.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Ron

    6 to 7 oz will work very well, easy to shape and will hold its shape giving you good retention to hold the gun in place, it also will work well for your mag pouches.

    but getting leather from Tandy???? It would be best if you can go to the store and pick it out in person, the firmer the leather the better the holster will be, if you order over the net they can send you what ever they grab, it may not be what you want or can use.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    most of my tools I have picked up here and there (auctions, e-bay and even friends) it all depends on how much of ones retirement you want to keep from the kids LOL

    low end tools would be the craft tools and the high end would be made with damascus steel.

    just about any of them will have to be sharped when you get them.

    the better tools do make leather work easier.

    one thing that works good for shaping is deer antler in different sizes.

    not a lot of help I know but someone with more tool knowledge can chime in and help you more.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Is the USMC FIEBING'S an oil dye? (I'm not familiar with USMC) If it is then yes you can use a deglazier or go get a can of acetone from the hardware store it should take most of the black off and what ever finish is on the leather, let dry completely.

    this will dry the leather out so when you die the leather it should soak in very fast no pooling on top of the leather, give it at lest two coats, you might try a different brand of die, KELLY'S die from ZACKS might help it has more oil in the mix.

    also you could mix a little oil in the FIEBING'S if it is an oil die.

    DO NOT mix oil with an institutional die (water based)

    good luck with this as I know how frustrating this can be, I have had die soak in in one place and not in others all on the same peice of leather and you try all kinds of things to save all the work you have already done.

    let us know how thing work out.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I haven't bought needles in a while - but I purchased them from Tippmann. Someone posted in a thread a month or two ago with a link to a needle manufacturer that showed a ton of different styles of needles and the resulting stitch. Maybe someone will chime in and guide you to that thread.

    Campbell Bosworth has lots of info here is some links

    http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/3_125

    http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html

    I have ordered for them all orders came with out a problem, very nice to talk to on the phone, helpful too.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I used plywood for mine and sealed them with polyurethane works great if you get it wet just wipe it off and it is dry again, also I used a 2X6 in the front with a notch to slide another 2X6 into that has different tools/machines (boss stitcher, splitter, riveter, etc.....) mounted on them, this makes more bench space because when not in use I can take the tool/machine out and put it under the bench.

    My top is 1" thick, I didn't want to have a soft bench top but the 3/4" should be fine, I also put a 2X4 in the middle of the top frame to make it even more solid, you just don't want to ever have to move it--it weighs a ton.

    also if you put a shelf under the bench this will help make it solid.

    I would be concerned with the particle board scratching the leather in time as the particle board breaks down.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Hello from Minnesota, USA

    What kind of forming are you looking to do?

    If it is saddles then you could start with AL Stohlman encyclopedia of saddle making all 3 books, each book has different parts of the saddle in-detail, book 1 has many tools and things to help build saddles.

    If you just want to form the leather, soak it in room temperature water until it stops bubbling (they call this boiling the leather) take the leather out shape it, let dry.

    just let us know alittle more of what you want to do and folks on this forum are more then happy to help you.

    happy new year

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Joey; when fixing a saddle I will use the same size thread (346) top and bottom with a round point needle, it helps you to line up in the old holes as-to not make new ones, new holes between the old holes can weaken the stitching.

    mostly you just have to use some of that scrap under your bench and see what works best for you as each of us has a different way to make the same thing work.

  23. Posted · Edited by TOM123 · Report reply

    :welcome: Welcome Scott, I think you will find people on this forum very helpful.

    It took sometime to find a link posted by "busted" but here it is http://parts.singerc...m/IPpartCharts/ I know your machine is not listed but look at the 111w104 it might help.

    Also you might try singer co. they might have a manual they could send you.

    I have a singer 153k103 it came with the original manual. the manual has the 101, 102, 103, and the 104 all in one book.

    good luck

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Did you notice WOT will not tell you how many people have rated the sit?

    what are they afraid of?

    I have ordered the Boss, accessory kit, needles,and a light from Tippmann, and I have never had a problem with any of my orders, this is a good company to work with.

    I would give Tippmann more than two thumbs up if I had more than two.

    Tom

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