UKRay

In these uncertain times it pays to have a broad skill-set, so this winter I'm planning to improve my soft leather skills and explore wallet and soft bag making. I currently have a Highlead GC0618 mid-range flatbed sewing machine that stitches 138 thread (UK20s) . I also have an ancient Singer 29k. Unfortunately, both machines seem too heavy for fine work on very soft leather. Can anyone please advise me on a suitable machine for wallet and soft bag/pouch making please? What features must this machine have? I would also appreciate your thoughts on what thread and needle size to use for soft wallets. Thanks for your suggestions. Ray

I suppose you'll want me to send the machines by carrier pigeon again... Have you any idea how hard it is to find a pigeon that can carry 400lbs across the Atlantic?

Thanks for the advice, Charlie. I'm convinced you are right and have made some pretty sweeping changes this past week or two to ensure I can stay where I am for a while longer. The staff issue is one I have explored, but even if I were drowning in work I can't see me employing anyone. <Rant starts here> I'd like to take on a trainee, but I couldn't afford the insurances, benefits packages and all the other nonsense that goes with it. Despite having an able and willing workforce on my doorstep, the cost of compliance with UK employment law, draconian Health & Safety regulations, and all the nonsensical legislation in between would cripple my business in five minutes. It almost feels like small businesses are penalised for wanting to grow.<Rant ends> The best way forward seems to be to invest in machinery to speed up operations and make them more efficient. Maybe then I'll be able to keep up with the workload and stay single handed. It has to be worth a try but the issue remains: where am I going to put any new machines? LOL Ray

Sometimes, you know the answer to a problem but don't want to admit it because the thought of something better is so attractive... Moving my business out of the house would be expensive and, lets face it, there is usually a way to move things around to make some more space. I shall just have to be VERY creative! As we all know, the economic future is uncertain on both sides of the pond, but I'm fairly sure it isn't going to improve any time soon. We still have another year or more of this to work through and although there is plenty of property up for grabs, I''ve now been convinced to sit tight and make do with what space I have for a while longer. I may have to dispose of a few machines sometime soon though! That will be hard. Right now I'm counting my blessings that I have enough work coming in and a roof over my head. Thanks for all your help. Ray

Plenty of good helpful stuff there, folks. Many thanks. I think your point is very valid, Dave. There is a fine line between moving because you want to and because you need to. Given all the reasons why I shouldn't move yadda yadda yadda I'm starting to look around for ways to stay here a while longer. I can't lift the garage roof as it is built into my house, Charlie, but the ceiling is high so I can use it for storage. Lots of stuff like that is going to be needed to make enough room to work. How do you guys fit everything into the space you have? Any tips or suggestions? Thanks again for your contributions. Ray

This month has been something of a watershed for me. I have to make some tough decisions. Let me give you the background: 6 months ago I decided to drop my day-job and go it alone with the leatherwork. Okay, I had the cushion of some occasional well paid writing/training work coming in, but essentially I had to make a living beating leather. To cut a long story short, it seems to have worked. In fact it has worked so well that I'm now in a confusion and would appreciate some good advice. Like most people, I have a workshop at home. Over the past year this has spread to cover approximately 400 square foot of space in three rooms on three floors. The heavy machines are in what used to be my old garage, The office and stores is a separate room and the main workshop used to be a spare bedroom. I'm very lucky to have the space but feel it is time to expand even further as I have a number of machines that I can't use because they are currently inaccessible and effectively in store. I simply don't have enough space to set them up ready for use. The main workshop is very cramped and I would like a much bigger cutting table, a larger space for dyeing and a proper leather storage area. In addition to a fairly successful on-line business, I'm also facing an upsurge in larger orders that are hard to work on with limited space to store components, leather and finished goods. I have also run a couple of successful booths at local shows and found that the public like what I make. In fact, my inventory was so depleted by the last event that it will take me a while to replenish stocks. Essentially, I feel it is time to expand but don't know what the next move should be. I could get an industrial unit, but I don't really want to become a 'full-on' manufacturer. I could get a 'store-front' and use the space to create a great workshop with a small retail capability. I could head for the retail sector,employ staff to make the leathergoods and sell direct to the public (not my favorite choice) or I could continue to struggle along in extremely cramped conditions that cost me nothing to run, making a reasonable living. What have I missed? Any thoughts? What would you do? Ray

Andy, I would strongly suggest you contact LW's very own CitizenKate (www.studio-2dawgs.com) as she created an excellent website for me. Take it from me, Studio 2-Dawgs quality of work is great and so is their attention to detail. Best of all, Kate's prices are very affordable and I'm delighted with the work she carried out.. Kate really went the extra mile to make sure my brief was matched precisely and, trust me, I'm not easily pleased! LOL Ray

Nice clean work. Ray

Useful information, Daniel - but don't stop there. We want to know everything! Those that don't will click away so 'fill your boots' man. Type 'till your fingers hurt. You have an appreciative audience here. Ray

I use Somac - excellent service. Give them a try! Ray

Thanks, LNLeather, that Gorilla Glue is amazing stuff and really versatile too but sadly it won't work with Delrin which was designed not to be sticky... hence I have the problem! LOL I had foam all over my bench the first time I tried it... we learn from experience I guess. Ray

Fascinating! Thanks guys. There is a whole 'culture' here that people outside the military know little about. Can anyone else add anything? Stories? History? Where did the idea come from? Does anyone still do it? Ray

The British army (and probably most others around the world) has a tradition of polishing leather army boots until they resemble mirrors. I'd be very interested to know the processes used to get this finish and whether these processes vary around the world and between military establishments. Can any of you fine military people help with a description of how you would give new army boots a proper military shine and what this process is called in your part of the world? Thanks, Ray

Hi Al, As you suggest, I have access to plenty of examples of original scabbards, but my question was about the tannage of the original leather and the treatment it was given to make it hard. The scabbards I am working on are simply tunnel stitched tubes of leather with metal fittings. They don't pose any real constructional challenges and do not appear to be made over a former other than the sword itself. Mine look virtually identical to the originals - I simply need to harden the leather so it keeps its shape when the sword is removed. "I'd guess they were made grain-in and jacked on the outside with a mix of rosin a touch of wax or oil and lampblack. Singe off any hairy bits of the flesh side and daub the mix in hot so it soaks in. Do that for several coatings and then burnish the hell out of it and you'll get a great smooth surface and it'll harden up the leather nicely. There are descriptions of jack boots and helmets made like this from the 18th century that are described as being as hard as wood." Your suggested course of action sounds like it may work, Al, and I will give it a try later this week as I have another sword on the bench waiting for a new scabbard. Could you please explain your use of the word 'jacked'? Is this the same process as 'bulling' military boots? Cheers, Ray

I've also been working on laser cutting Delrin stamps and am currently using a small hydraulic press to set them. What I would like to find is a way to set a delrin handle into a delrin stamp. I have found it difficult stuff to glue - but I'm probably using the wrong adhesive. Has anyone had any success with joining delrin pieces. I wondered if welding them with a jeweller's gas torch might be a better bet? Ray

Welcome to LW, Sparks. I hope you find everything you are looking for here. We don't get too much colonial re-enactment over here in the UK, although I hear it is gaining popularity. It would be good to know more about your involvement and the sort of things you and your wife make. Pictures are always very well received! Oh yes, and don't believe everything Luke says about me... Ray

Those are beautiful coasters, Particle. Nice clean work. I always make round coasters, mainly because I have a press knife that cuts the circles perfectly for me! (I'd hate to have to cut them by hand). How about putting the couple's initials in the middle? Either stamped, or if you want to make them extra-special take the time to carve them. Ray

Hola Manuel, Welcome to LW. Hope you enjoy your time here. Ray

Hi Kristen, Welcome to LW. That looks like a good set-up. I hope you have got those tools out of their packaging by now... Ray

We are grateful for your suggestions, Al. Nothing that improves the quality of a job is off topic! Ray

I was a bit worried about this topic, Josh, and didn't know what to expect. Over here, a 'chap issue' is one that doesn't concern ladies! I thought you might be having 'problems'... LOL Ray

That all makes sense, guys - thanks Troy. Anyone else got anything to add as I'm grateful for all suggestions. How do you know if the holes are the right size, Luke? And what should I use to lubricate the lace with? I could use a bit of Skidmore's I guess...

I'm double loop lacing motorcycle seats at present but each time I splice in a new piece of lace the next bit of lacing becomes slightly tighter or looser than the one before which makes the work look a bit untidy. I know that, in the end, the tension is down to me, but does anyone have a good technique or a few tips that might make this process easier? How do you guys make your double loop lacing look so neat? Ray

I've been very disappointed with the quality of 'on the roll' lace and have decided to make my own. I have tried the Tandy lace cutting tool and eventually lost patience with it. Can anyone suggest a good affordable lacemaker that delivers reliable results? I need the lace for high-end motorcycle seats so consistent lace quality is very important to me. Ray