okie44

You can go on the manufacturers page, and get the dimensions. If they have a good profile photo of the gun, you can print it off full size, to match the dimensions of the gun. If the mfg page doesn't have a good photo, just go to google to find a photo. This is especially helpful on guns that are hard to find in gun shops. I have used this many times, and you get a more accurate drawing, and it's easier than chasing guns.

One of the first things I noticed, about plastic holsters, is that they tend to eat gun finishes mush faster than than any leather holster I ever used. I had one for a Glock 23, and in no time, I could see marks in the finish. Glock has one of the hardest black finishes I have seen, so if it wears that fast, it would destroy a blue finish in no time. I know that some of them are cheaper, but they will never equal the retention, and life, of a well made leather holster. I know some of the "tactical" folks don't seem to worry much about how beat up their equipment looks. The more beat-up, I guess the more "authentic" they look.

That didn't work so well, so try this

Mernickle Holsters makes an extremely high ride belt holster that does not tip out, at least not if the belt is reasonably tight. I made a copy, for my personal use, and I carry a full size .45 acp Springfield XD in it with no problems. The secret to this holster is a flap that goes over the belt behind the holster, and has a built-up shim, for the lack of a better word, near the bottom. This forces the bottom of the holster out a little, and prevents tipping. I have posted a link to an article on Gun Blast, that has a photo about half way down the page, that shows the flap I am talking about. Mernickle-PS61.htm

I don't have a pattern, but you can go on line and google the model judge you need. You will be able to find good profile views, and the manufactures will list the dimensions. Just adjust the picture to print the correct size, and print all the patterns you want. After making several holsters, I can usually tell how much to allow around it for stitch lines. Hope this helps.

Just a thought, and best for another board, but do you remember the cop that had a bull pup 12ga built several years ago, that was strapped to the shoulder and able to fire with with one hand. Was made for a one armed cop, and I think it is NFA now, but would be a good way to go in the situation you mentioned.

I have made a few holsters that are flat on the back, and molded on the outside. I usually allow more leather on the front side. I make the back stitch line the size of the gun outline. I allow about the thickness of the gun, added to the front, then wet mold only the front side. This allows the front to stretch, and and leaves the back flat. That may not be the only way to do it, but it works for me. Hope this helps.

The way I use to get the stitch line close to the gun, is as follows: along the spine of the holster, I allow the full thickness of the gun. Along the trigger guard side, I only allow the thickness of the leather for the stitch line. This makes for a very tight fitting holster, that needs to be stretched to fit the gun. Just wet the holster, and insert the gun. You will have to work the gun into it, and then do the final form fitting, and boning. This works well for me, and as yet, I have not had to throw away holsters because I couldn't get the gun in. This takes most of the stretch out of the leather, so it doesn't loosen up as much with wear. Hope this helps, and keep up the good work. The holster looks nice.

i really like the look of those grips. I may just try a set myself.

I usually make my holsters very tight. When you start putting the gun in, it doesn't look like it will fit at all. I sometime use the handle of a tool, to stretch enough to get started, then just work the gun into the wet holster. By doing this, you use up most of the stretch in the leather, which makes it less likely to loosen with age. Sometimes it is a bit scary when you look at the gun, and the new holster, but so far, I have not had to throw one away because it's too small.

i have one of the Rock Island full size 1911's, with the smooth grips. These grips are a little smaller than standard, and if yours are the same, you might just cover them with leather. I think that is what has been done with the stingray grips I posted earlier. If you want to make them using all leather, you will need kydex, or metal, or some other material for a stiffener, as they are thin, and a long way between mounting holes. If you decide to try it, I'd like to see how they come out.

I found this photo on a forum. i don't see there would be any problem doing the same thing with leather. I would seal ti real well to help with oils from your hand.

I like the tape on the wing nut, been cussin mine for a while, and just too lazy to try something. Oh, and the holster looks like a good idea too.

The lace would probably keep the gun from falling out, but most people who carry cocked and locked prefer to have the strap between hammer and firing pin as an extra safety feature.

I am a little like gregintenn, in that I am a guesser. The method I use is perhaps a little risky, but it has worked well for me. I like start by downloading a good profile of the gun, then adjusting it to full size, then printing ir out, and then cutting it out, to use as a pattern. I mark the first stitch line, as the top of the slide. I measure the thickness of the slide, then use 1/2 that distance, plus the thickness of the leather, and move the pattern that far from the initial line, and draw my stitch line. This will result in a holster that seems too small for the gun. I then soak the holster in water, or rubbing alcohol, and put the gun in the holster. It will have to stretch the leather a good bit, and will require working the leather around the gun with fingers, or tools. When the gun is finally fit to the holster, it will be a nice close fit, and with all the stretch taken out of the leather, it won't work loose after a while. Some times I am a bit worried when I start, but have never had to throw one away because it is too small. The reason I like to use alcohol, is it leaves the leather a bit firmer, dries faster, and is not as likely to rust a metal gun. The photo I have included, is an old one, and the boning is not too good, but it is the only pic I have right now. You can see the fit tho. Hope the long winded post is of some help.