Nandy

I completely forgot about this thread. I got me a Juki cylinder bed quite ago. Mod please close this thread. Thanks!

First off, I'm a hobbyist so I am trying to keep this economical so I cannot afford your $1000 plus machine. This is for light work, purses, wallets and such. I like to give my family gifts made by me and this is pretty much the only machine I have to add to my collection which has been many years in the making. I would love the machine to be compatible with the 135x17 needle system and the alike pressure foots and attachment. I have 2 juki machines, DNU-1541S and a Lu-1508 which I would trade if interested. Let me know, I have bought many machines and use yrc for freight and they seem competitive. Thanks!!!

I might do that... thanks.

http://www.sutherlandfelt.com/wicking.htm They sell 15 feet minimum, at a bit over $4 a feet, that is $60 just for one size..... Too much for wicks even if they let you combine sizes... I think I will do the roll felts and call it done. I might even be able to clean some of the larger used felts and reuse them...

Well I am very pleased with the product so far. The recommendations are to submerge the parts for 24 hours then rinse. I removed some parts from the machine in order to remove some of the oil wicks and decided to try the process on those to see if this worked or not. I degreased the parts first then used the rust remover liquid. Now, I used my sonic bath but I only use the vibration for maybe 20 min total. 2 hours into it and I took a peek but I did not notice any improvement. I checked at 12 hours which is a more realistic time period and to my amazement all parts were rust free I decided to leave it for 24 hours anyway the only negative I see is that the thread tension assembly lost the black.color which I think is etched. Not a biggie, I can fix that and if it takes the paint off the machine.I can fix that too. Will post pictures later in a separate thread

MIke, thanks for such wonderful link!!!!

Thanks!

Uwe, im planing to replace all the wicks and felts off my lu1508, what did you end up using and did it worked right? Thansk!!!!

No offense taken brmax. I will get some pictures of them maybe this week but they look like any other dnu1541s or lu1508n. Thanks!

Im removing the belt in order to clean the machine. There is a chemical that is "safe" to use on the machine but I am not sure how safe it will be for the belt. I will also have to remove as much of the oil wicks as I can. It is a water based chemical, I will have to degrease the machine, dip it on it on the cleaning chemical, rinse it with water, wd40 the machine, let it drip then oil the entire machine. I rather not have the belt there during all that. Uwe, I should have know better and make a separate thread but I slipped.... Sorry for that. Thanks everyone, y'all have been great help!!!! I will post pictures later, I might even make a new thread later on with the process I used to clean the machine.

I am neef to take the timing belt off this machine but I can't find documentation. Can somebody Point me out in the right direction?

Stitching fine now..had to shim bobbin case lever opener to get it in the correct angle I guess I will be ordering those parts next weeks after I'm comfortable the machine is worth it... Thanks y'all!

Got the Presser foot and other issues taken care off on the Lu. All I have left to do.is.figure the hook issue. Getting closer....

Btw, the bed for the Lu is longer and the lubrication system for the hook seeMs to be better, at least in my opinion.

So here is the scoop, the dnu-1541s is in what I would call mint condition. The only problem I saw was that it was stored in a no climate control location and a few parts have rust. Most of the parts with rust are the balancers/counter weights and a few other static parts. I want to get all the rust out but I am not too crazy about take this machine apart just to do that. There is nothing I can think off that can remove rust "in place" but maybe some of you do. I pulled a few links here and there to make sure the parts that move against others did not had any rust and it seems that enough oil remained to keep those parts in good shape. I oiled everything and anything, got all wicks saturated with oil and fill the reservoir to half way between low and high. Started to turn the handwheel slowly and oiled more. Machine is smooth and it all looks in time. I thread it to make sure the hook took the thread and it did perfectly. The only problem is the seller forgot to put the bobbin case and the bobbin latch door in the box. I send them a message and they will get back at me tomorrow to let me know they located it and will send it... The LU-1508 is a different story, it is a mess.... This machine was not stored properly or who knows if it got wet. EVERYTHING that can be rusted is rusted, I did put some links out and it seems that the parts that had oiled still are clean and smooth. I oiled everything and worked it as I did the other machine. The presser foot will not raise at all. It does raise with the lever. Im having a hard time figuring out why it dont. Lucky the DNU is close enough to help me but still, cant figure it out and I hacked at it for close to an hour. Im pretty good at mechanics but this one has me a bit puzzled. More on that in the future... Also, the hook looks on time but if I try to put a bobbin with thread it locks the hook up. Didnt look any further. Seems for this one to get back I will have to take it all apart, clean it and put it together. Not sure if I want to take on that project or not. That machine also has the reverse lever missing (seems to work as it moves as I change the stitch length). Stitch length dial has to be adjusted and the bobbin case opening lever is missing (seems the one in my consew 225 fits it)... In all, either someone was playing with this machine or it broke and they never fixed it and put it to the side... Not bad for $400 total including shipping...

Ok, so someone explain, I keep reading how a bottom loading machine has the advantage where you can change your bobbin without removing the work. I can change the bobbin on my top loader consew with no problem. Of course, I have to still pull the material as I have to hook the bobbin thread and such... Or is it that in the bottom loader, let say, you are running out of thread to the point you wont be able to finish a pass, you can stop, pull the old bobbin, cut the thread, put the new bobbin and continue sewing? Someone please do explain..... PS- The machines will arrive tomorrow but I wont have time to pick them at the terminal... sucks, will have to wait until friday to pick them up...

I bought these 2 machines online at a real good price. Of course, being online who knows, maybe it is not such a good deal... anyway.... Im trying to figure out the differences on the machine from a practical stand point of view. I know the ultimate "which machine I like better" will come from trying them both BUT I also like to hear from people that might have used them both... This is what I know, heard or read around. The dnu is an older model, the lu is a newer replacement... The dnu is bottom load bobbin, the lu is top loading.. Supposedly the bottom load machine does not need the thread to be held when starting to stitch. That would be a plus for me as depending on what I am building there is no practical way for me to hold the thread. the lu has an even larger bobbin than the dnu, plus for the lu. The lu is louder than the dnu. Anyone has anything else to add? Thanks!

Me again! I got the needles, bobbins and bobbin case today. I got it all together and used gutermann top stitch jeans thread. I manually turned the pulley and I got this: You can see where the thread starts and ends. The bottom is a mess but I am not sure if it is a setting or me. I tried a second time pulling the bottom thread up to start and it end up with a mess and locking at the shuttle. I re thread it but left the bottom thread at the bottom and it worked fine so it might just be me. Not sure how the bobbin case needs to be adjusted so here is where someone with experience on this machine can help. Bottom cutter is still disabled and I did play with the pneumatics and I think I have most of it figured out. There is a valve that should connect to the machine in my opinion but I have not figure it out yet. Any input about the pneumatics will be great, photos will help too.

The narrative continues, lol! The needle was actually hitting the lower thread nipper so there is a chance the shuttle is timed correctly. Im waiting for the parts to arrive. I might get to get it running without a needle of course and see how it behaves if I can figure the pneumatics.

I put a comparable length needle in the machine today and a piece of 3 oz leather to map the pattern better and the needle will go just a little past the needle hole bushing so I assumed the shuttle is out of timing but I had no "time" to double check since I was out of time (bad timing huh?! pun intended) and had to leave to my real job. Looking at the documentation there is a gauge that is used to set the tip of the shuttle in relation to the needle when the needle is at it lowest point. Does anyone knows what is that measurement? Im sure I can replicate that with my feeling gauges. I can also try to time it manually but I rather not do that if the gauge information is available somewhere. Thanks!

Hello team, Fresh from another Industrial machine bid, got me a couple nice ones, one that seems a dud and this 269w8 bartacker that I am not sure yet if it is a dud or a nice one... I know there is at least one 269 SME here, maybe more, so if they are inclined to help with their inside info, documentation and ideas that will be great. I know this is not a easy machine to work with but if I cant get it to work I can probably get my money back if I scrape it. However, the challenge is to get it running even if it is not the best machine for leather or jeans straps as i would have hoped. First off, The air lines are not connected to anything other than to the pneumatic cylinder and the presser foot. I am sure there should be a manifold somewhere but I can get all that, just dont have info on how to hook it but I would probably figure that out too but rather have someone give me a hint... Why reinvent the wheel, right?. There are 3 air lines and 3 cylinders. What would be the pressure needed to operate those cylinders? 50 psi is generally safe to start. I have yet to investigate how these pneumatic cylinders are activated. The machine and the table are still in the Blazer... I manually turned the pulley until I heard a click and could not turn any longer. I assumed that is the stop/start position as the presser is centered and I can actuate the presser foot and line cutter. I pull the lever with my hand and counted the times the needle bar dropped down while also watching the presser. It seems I counted 22 needle bar drops until the machine clicked and locked again. I was then able to actuate the presser foot and line cutter. I have seen many videos of the machine working and the way this machine does it's movements it really seems it is making a box stitch and not a bartack. So either this machine has been altered to do a different stitch or maybe is half way the cycle. As I understood these are 40 some stitches machine but could be converted. If so then I am lucky as I could probably use it then.The feed cam had a number written in marker 69201-801-274 but I could not find anything online about that. Not sure it is a legit singer part number. The pattern seems something like this. I have a few stitches missing but I will check that better if I can tomorrow with a piece of cardboard or such. Kind of hard to map that in the Blazer... Machine did not had the bobbin nor the bobbin case and the needle was bent so I ordered those already. There is no pulley in the motor and of course, no belt but I am not worried about that, i have plenty of motors/belts. I have 220 and 220 3phase so I just have to look at the motor in detail... Again, any help with those familiar with this machine will be great. I have no plan on spending 800 to 1000 fixing it but for the time being I love to tinker with it. Other pics Thanks!

Holly Hijack Batman!!! lol!!!! Going back to the OP, can those with the servo replacement issue pm me with the vendor. I am actually buying one of those and dont want to get it from someone that will not support it. Any piece of equipment can fail at any time and not be fault of the user so I want some piece of mind when I get mine. Thanks!

I have 4 pieces of oiled tanned leather in the 2 oz size (1 full and 3 shoulders) plus a piece of tooling leather. I will not be using all that leather right away so I am trying to figure how to put them away. I had them laying on my sons bed but he is back from this vacation this weekend and I dont have anywhere else to put them opened up like that. I bought one of those clothes racks and was planning to put a few more horizontal beams and hung them there in my stepdaughers room since she is gone to college in 2 weeks. I think that is better than folding them like they had at the store. I have not been able to get that crease where it was folded to "iron out". I paid good money for those leathers and would like to keep them as safe as i can. Any ideas?

first off, let me apologize if there is a better section to post this. I realize this is not at typical leather sewing machine and it would only work on thin leather but I got this more for my jeans and future canvas dealing. Anyway, I got a Mitsubishi LT2-250 dual needle machine which has the Limi-Stop Z and a Brother C6 back tack controller. I am having no luck finding a manual for the Brother Back tack and was hopping someone here might recognize this piece of equipment and share some light on it. I might be able to figure it out but i rather have documentation. Thanks for any help.

You got that right, and their instructions are not the best. I have the 5G43p456. I downloaded that one not long ago. I had read that thread before I got the machine so it was interesting to say the least. when everything else fails, trial and error!!! lol! Thanks!