IngridG

Yeah I was a little worried about that as I recently tested allergic to mold but I am just that much of a cheapskate. Might make a funny tombstone, "just couldn't stand to throw away potentially useful craft supplies" ;-).

Thanks, I'll try it. I think the listing called it nappa lacing which is an unlikely term but like I said, China. Some kind of leather, probably ;-).

Bought some lacing from China and it comes with a strong mold/mildew odor, it looks fine though otherwise. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the smell and rescue this stuff? I don't even know if it is a chemical or a natural smell, I only know I must get rid of it before use. I am currently trying borax powder and setting it out in the sun (we have plenty here). It seems persistent though. By the way I don't recommend buying it from there as I got the same thing from multiple sellers. I am learning and wanted something cheap to practice with. I am not wanting to handle this the way it is though.

There's a tool that makes flat holes, lined up at a slant. Looks like a little pitchfork with one to six prongs. They are mainly used to sew with flat leather lacing but they can be got very small (I got mine on auction for cheap). 3mm size is about right for sinew type flat thread, the elongated hole makes it much easier to keep the thread facing one way and once you get it working it looks amazingly pro. Just search for prong hole punch or look up lacing stitching on youtube, same principle only smaller, if you can find the tool in black metal it lasts better than the silver and makes better holes, carbon steel or whatever it is. You could possibly learn the idea faster with a larger set and using lacing. The idea is a round hole for round lacing and a flat hole for flat lacing. In general I find *not twisted or braided thread is much easier to make look good (imitation sinew).

I am new to this medium but I have been an artist for years and sculpting for some of them. A) really nice work again, good contrast and faces. I thought I would chime in because I am liking the results of using the stainless steel dental tool set I have used for sculpting in clay for years, works super on leather so far. I don't know if it's traditional or not but as long as you are using hand pressure and not a mallet or hammer they are very accurate and super smooth. I think they are nicer than the spoon type tools sold for leather and can be got cheaply sometimes. also if like me you have trained your hands to work this way, retraining them to work with a hammer is a little hard to get used to. I still am doing so for some things like beveling and backgrounds but for putting in lines of various types (not cuts) I like them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Wax-Carving-Dental-Spatula-Polymer-Clay-Carver-Tools-/351458298220?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51d48c096c Not this specific set they come in all kinds of shapes but to give you an idea of the tool range you can get for the price. I find with a bit of pressure they are giving nice lines on the leather. Especially the spoon shaped ones and the spear shaped ones.

Neat, I like it! Very nice work and original looking.

I know it's been awhile since it was posted but it's still neat, just what I am looking for. I was cutting my feather out first and this way makes a lot more sense.

Thank you for the demo. I too wish I could see more oak leaf patterns done, yours is beautiful. I am just starting out too.