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Everything posted by kjcreamer
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Wasn't sure if I should post here or in Adhesives forum but since it's more a newbie question I went with Getting Started forum. I'm trying to use Tanners Contact Adhesive (was using their water based "elmers" type glue). It's a brand new can and wasn't gloopy or anything so I didn't use any thinner. I followed the directions to use light coat on each side, wait til tacky, put together. It dried over a few days under a book with a weight on top of that. I tried stitching it up and when I pushed the awl thru I got cement residue coming out in little rubber globs. Then the thread went through and picked up more. What did I do wrong? I'm finding Tandy stuff to be less and less satisfactory as I learn more. Should I ditch the Tandy cement and buy Masters or Barge that I see most more advanced workers use? Is it possible I used too much (I don't know how I could have made a lighter coat unless I used a different brush than the one attached to can lid) As a side note did I damage my awl blade?
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Art, the Barry King awl in the link you sent looks beautiful. Will it fit other awl blades? There isn't much description with the item on the site. Also I have small girl hands. Would this medium size you recommended still be appropriate? I like the idea of a flat haft to help placement. Someone also recommended the "stinger awl" from leather burnishers.com. Any thoughts?
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Basic Card Holder Pattern (Pdf / Build Video)
kjcreamer replied to jk215's topic in Patterns and Templates
This would be a great way to give a gift card to someone. They get the gift card AND a handcrafted card holder. It's a way to "personalize" a generic gift card present. -
This is fantastic! Thank you for this feedback. I checked out all the thread options and read more from fine leather.com. I didn't know about some of those sites. I had just looked at Tandy and SLC. I feel like I have more direction now. I also picked up a Valerie Michael leather book from my library. It's good to know I can work with sandpaper for the time being. It takes time for you experienced people to respond to beginners questions so I thank you all.
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Newbie here in need of clarification/direction. I've read lots and lots and lots of stuff about Tiger thread (and like everyone else in the world watched Ian A. and Nigel A. use it on their videos). It seems like it's hard to find in US without buying short lengths for a huge mark-up. So if I don't bother with Tiger thread, what else should I get to use with saddle stitching by hand (no machine). I currently use the Tandy waxed nylon thread they said I should buy to start with. This is what I have: https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1227-02.aspx . It appears to have three small threads to form the main thread. It's been okay as my starter thread (I have in all three amazing colors - white, black, and brown) but now that I'm better at stitching, I'm ready to get some better stuff next time. What I like about it - prewaxed is easy and I'm fearful of my ability to know how much wax to apply if I get unwaxed. What I don't like about it - seems sort of thick for what I'm making which have been journal covers (these projects really show how much my stitching is improving though , pouches, some not-so-great wallets, basic beginner stuff, nothing heavy duty like sheaths. I'm also wondering if I'm doing something wrong, I'm being picky, or it's just the thread but it seems sort of "furry" after stitching. Definitely not frayed or anything, but I thought the wax would keep it "neater" and less feathery. How do you know how thick thread is? I've read there are different thoughts on linen vs. nylon. So if someone recommends a good thread, what harness needles to use with it? I am soooo confused with the harness needle numbering system. I've gathered that I should get John James which I know SLC carries. Seems JJ needles will do an adequate job and I think the prices are okay for my budget. Some places say UK sizing of JJ needles are different from US. I understand that I should use the smallest needle that I can, but isn't that dependent on the thread (which as I said above I don't know how to determine its thickness/weight/or whatever is the correct term for it)? So how do I "match" them? I have to mail order it sight unseen. http://springfieldleather.com/20059/Needle%2CHarness%2C%2200%22Med%2C5pk/ Finally, I can't believe what sharpening my awl did for me!! I'm sure I didn't even do it "right" or as long as I should have. I watched the Nigel A. video on sharpening. Since I don't have sharpening stones, I bought a variety pack of fine wet/dry sandpaper (400,800,1000,1200 grits). I used it dry since I thought adding sharpening oil would leave residue on the leather even after wiping. I finished by stropping with the jewelers' rouge that came with my starter Tandy set. So I have two questions here about awls. First, is there an affordable sharpening stone set for awls or should I stick with sandpaper for now? I'm grinning at the idea that my awl could be even better with the right tools. Seems like I can find lots of stuff for sharpening swivel knife blades but not the diamond shaped awl. Second, how does the awl size work with the needle/thread size choices? [As a side note, I wanted to order from SLC an Osbourne haft (there are 3 choices - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/24630/Awl%2CHaft%2CPalm/) and Osbourne blade (a bunch of sizes - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/16526/Blade%2CAwl%2CHarness%2C1-3-4%22/) to use as my primary awl and use the somewhat sharpened Tandy awl as my backup so if I'm getting new thread and needles, this is a good time to get a coordinating awl set-up.] And just in case this makes any impact on the advice above, I am using Tandy's Pro Line Diamond Stitching Chisels (I have 2mm in 2 and 4 prong versions and 3mm in 2 and 4 prong versions https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88044-02.aspx). I pound in the chisel but not all the way through all the layers of leather. I use the awl to open one hole at a time and stitch. I'm slow but following my Al Stohlman book instructions (Don't put the awl down between stitches So I guess I'm assuming thread steers the size decisions for all the other things, but maybe I have that backwards. I know this is a really long post but I wanted to provide as much information as possible to hopefully help someone help me. This is my first post and I want to say thank you for all of you that have been posting such great information that I've been reading. Whenever I jump on the forum, it's like I get to go to a really awesome leather "class" anytime I want.
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