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If I don't have burning lamp ethanol, can I use candle instead?

Thank you for this more information poletnik.

Noted Tom, next time I'll do post picture in leatherwork.net on next thread. Maybe I can fix this missing picture. So everyone can have the full part.

The first message? I forgot the picture on my dropbox is linked with this thread, so I did delete it. I'm sorry

After I finished the last one, I try to fill the case with maximum cards, and it look better shape, maybe if I stiff it with your method before do finishing, it might have good look even I'm not filling the cards. thank you ^^ About edge finishing, I do sanding to make the edge even side to side and then burnished it, but still after I sand it and then burnished, not help that much for making beautiful edge (for this gusset case - it work well on another project without gusset) you might notice there's a "crack" on the edge. Maybe I'm not using the right technique when attaching main body to the gusset. They aren't using machine, they use hand stitching and they hole both side before stitching, I don't know how they count the arc / curve side for the main body regarding to gusset, but they did. They are not gluing the parts yet when stitching. Here's the picture.

Guys, thank you , I did it! The stitching line now form straight line. Here's the body & the edge. Question about this 2nd pouch: 1. The edge is still rough even I've sand it, maybe the sand number isn't correct? 2. The under side of the pouch is swelling, I refer to this example made by @understood_leather on instagram. The gusset type is similar, but they have perfect bottom (under side), still flat. Is it because my material to thin? When I did stitch I pull it gently on curved area but still the result have a little tug on bottom. Would you guys please share your ideas to this case =)

And so it is, I will try to make the second one, slowly, and put more space between the hole, previously I used 4mm diamond pron fork, maybe I will try for the 6mm one. hope it will affected the gap for the inside arc. thanks guys for your share! best of luck always.

Thank You Halitech for your info. About the stitching hole distance. I used this method: 1.Hole the gusset first (using prong diamond fork). 2.I attached the gusset with the main body (the main body isnt holed yet) 3. I hole the main body through the gusset hole with diamond awl (one by one) My doubt is in the angle when I hole with the awl, but its hard because I cannot set vertical angle with the awl. If I hole the body first & then hole the gusset (curved) with the awl, will the curve ruin the stitching line?

Hi Tom, I've post the picture in link, you can find it at: -V Gouge I used -Failed #1 - Failed #3

Wow David, sorry I just look at your reply now. Thanks for your information, its very clear. I have look at the web but the price is very expensive especially if it convert to my currency. I will start from Valerie by the way. Even the book presenting old style bag but the technique still use in this recent days ^^. Thanks again and wish you all the best!

Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^

Thanks Nuttish, I've already saw it on amazon. So even the project on that book use canvas or something, I can change it with any material, but with the same technique right? Can you give example for the unexplained part of the book refer to " The book assumes you already know how to sew reasonably well"

Wow.. thanks Tinkertailor, I like his blog. Hope I learn something from there. Thanks 25b Already have the 1st book you mention here. But for the second book I think its impossible if I search on my local library, I live in Indonesia. Has anyone ever take a lesson from CRAFTSY? Is it worth it? Because Im about to try this class http://www.craftsy.com/class/design-your-own-handbag/144?_ct=myixbyij-jyjbu-sbysa&_ctp=5004187

Yes, the link had been redacted by this site. Sorry its my bad. But thanks anyway for your info Thor =) Hello TinkerTailor, Yes, I would like to learn making a handbag with my own design. I will try the link you refer too. What you mean the "tutorials on here as well" means on this site? I have to make further research on this site. Thanks for your info Hi 25b, I want to run a business on this types of handbag (not copying the models of bags on site I post previously). So Im looking references for learning structure of a bag, pattern making, assembly the patern (all about basic hand bag making) Maybe you can help me for that? =) Thanks for your help.

Thanks Thor. I've already check your site reference. Seems the book used for real leather. I've found a site which has several eds for this publisher (jap book) maybe you have already know this site. (link redacted) I want to make a bag looks like in this web https://handbagdesigner101.com/homepage maybe you or anyone can help give me another ref =) its okey if it's not a book , a blog perhaps? Thank You.