IanCantwell

I like it, wish I could pluck up the courage to have a go a basketweave. Can you tell me what that piece of wood screwed to the stirrup tread is and can anyone tell me if there is a standard way the small strap above the stirrup should finish (pointing in to the horse or out to the bush)?

Nice site and gear but couldn't get any of the links from the horse page to work.

Thanks Mike, That was handy, I was going to check back thro the posts to see if I could find a recommended method of softening up leather, I only put sheen on to see if it would darken I don't normally use it. Is that the Fiebing Aussie Conditioner or ? Ian

Do you have resin? We have a hobbycraft store that sells a resin to make paperweights. To cut down on the quantity mix with a cheap filler, a local concrete ornament manufacturer using fine polystyrene beads in his mix to reduce weight and expensive (double taxed) stone.

Hi Bobocat, Welcome to the forum. That is a brilliant tutorial, thank you for sharing it with us. Your photography is 1st class and the carving is very clean and accurate.

Hi Bea, Welcome to the forum. I sometimes take my horse with his slick fork western saddle to shows and allow young people to have a ride on him, they don't see many western saddles in England. I also have the same problem, they have short legs and it is very difficult to adjust western stirrups quickly and short enough. My solution is to take English stirrup leathers/stirrups and hang them over the horn. Maybe you could remove the western ones and replace with English using the original slots on the tree and not use fenders.

Just to update you an my experiment. I mixed 50ml of malt vinegar with 400ml of water and dropped in a couple of pieces of black iron. I left the iron to rust of a few days until the mixture looked a rusty colour. I took a piece of 15oz russet and an old belt (dyed black) and placed them in the solution for a time. Almost immediately there was a reaction with the new leather, small bubbles appeared and within the first 30 seconds it was evident a colouring was taking place. At 2 minutes the new leather was a dark grey colour and the old belt was black. At 3 minutes I removed both and the new leather was also black. I rinsed both under running water and left them out on the bench to dry, the new leather has lightened slightly to a dark grey. I then gave the new leather a couple of coats of Tandy Super Sheen and polished it up. I'm pleased with the result, it's not as dark as some dyes but it shows the contrast nicely, a bit antique looking. I did a cross section and it appears the reaction has gone about 1/2mm deep so no rubbing off with this method. See what you think. Edit: 2nd photo, belt was dipped up to second hole from right. I also slicked the edge by just dampening VERY slightly and rubbed up with a piece of old denim, it came up great with no need for edge coat. Anyone know if I should've edge coat to seal it?

I'm with Jordan on this one, just make sure you case with WARM water.

I think you'll find the key is sewn into the spine. I've seen a modern equivalent in plastic that uses a springy plastic spine but I guess this one being 40 years old will have a spring steel piece. I guess you could compare to an elongated bicycle clip (that keeps your trousers out of the chain).

Hi Alan, When I did my saddle making course the teacher and I took a hundred or so photos of the various stages and I took notes of the key points. I haven't had chance to type them up, keep them in my 'little black book' but I will do soon. Anyhow, if you want I could burn a copy of the photo CD if you think it would be of use or alternatively I might be able to upload it to my company web site and let you know the page URL. Let me know if I can be of help. By the way, I enjoyed the braiding tutorial but not yet got the nerve or time to have a go, someday. Ian.

Great looking seat, love the fade of the dark dye, did you airbrush?

Very neat and functional, like the braided work, a little different and really like that mean skull. Ian.

Nice one! Like the way you've done the fastening from the bottom up. Ian.

Welcome onboard, Sounds like you're taking a positive approach, I don't think you can go too far wrong learning from a master, I started that way and there was as much to learn about what not to do that what is correct, that sure cuts down on the mistakes. Can't wait to see you show off your work. Ian.