AhniRadvanyi

While production can be challenging everywhere in the world, there are places that make some aspects easier. Bali, Indonesia has been my choice for beginning to produce in volume. The last 10 years tailors have been trained in new techniques to make what the edgy fashion market demands as high end luxury leather goods. I've heard is said in Bali that great tailors are not hard to find, great clients for tailors are hard to find. So many people come to Bali, and do small volume production, when they leave the production doesn't always remain consistent. The tailors want to develop long term relationships with designers. For the past 6 years I have been sewing all my own products for the online store. The move to Bali has allowed me to focus on design and marketing instead of labor. Now I find so much value in creating "tech packs"- which is a technical instruction packet to give to a tailor with a sample to make the first attempt as close to perfect as possible. So much expense is due to mistakes, keeping a tight budget means being crystal clear in communicating and showing the tailor exactly what is expected of him or her. If you can get to the volume production after 2 attempts to create your product instead of a dozen, you save an incredible amount of time and resources. I am so happy to talk more about what is included in a tech pack. I have been living in Bali for almost 2 years, and have learned so much about production here. I am interested to hear what kind of experience others have had in other countries. See how I work in this video:

Hands down- best machine I've used is the industrial JUKI with walking foot. I use upholstery thread and a 19/22 needle. Here is the machine and thread in action, sewing a high end leather jacket:

Saddle stitch vs. Lockstitch: This debate is one I have seen loop between enthusiasts. We can both agree that the strong thread used is key. And that thread tension is immensely important to take note of for both. At the end of the day, if the thread breaks- your product will need to be repaired. Abrasion and stress that breaks your thread will be bad for both. We are measuring the damage control after the seam has been compromised. I would love to see a side-by-side test of each stitch to settle the question definitively. With both kinds of hand-stitching, whichever you love, you love. I have invested 10,000 hours in lockstitching, and learned the importance of thread tension in that time. But if a better kind of stitch can be proven, I would adapt despite the invested time in a previous favorite stitch. @TinkerTailor- great idea, thank you for pointing out the efficiency of pre-made holes using a machine to set perfect distance with ease. @KulaFarmer, Thank you @TheCyberWolfe and Charlie, glad to see your input. Your experience is valuable.

Leather Lovers, I want to get to know you. Do you dream of 12 strand-round braids and live to pound a mallet while rive-setting? Yeah. Me too. I am new to this community, and while taking a long whiff together of a room that smells of leather hides can not yet happen for us... Let me welcome you into my Design Studio via youtube all the same. -ahni https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS2vGbuzzSI

Love it. TinkerTailor- you got grit. I can only speak for myself when I say it sews 3x as fast. When I got into leatherwork- tried to using the forked tools to punch even holes along an edge. Then sewed with 2 needles like <><><><><><> on top and bottom. That took waaaaaaaay to long. The sewing awl f***ing saved my life. I've sold over 400 hand made bags in the past 7 years through word of mouth and the online store. That is not a statement I am bragging about- it's one I am more embarrassed by. It took 7 years for me to relocate to Bali to hire professional tailors to sew for me. Now i am focused on production and sharing skills. We are about to get off topic- be warned: TinkerTailor- no doubt you got skillz to teach me. School me, please. Center Camp Cafe- killer. Let's do it. Burning Man this year will happen for me. I am going with "Prosthesis, the anti-robot" (google that for a giggle) and the hydrolic machine they have been building for over a year now. I plan to create the pilot suit in Vancouver this summer, if all goes according to agreement. Sending you love, Leather Man.

For hand stitching with a sewing awl, use waxed nylon or poly thread. Black or brown are better because you can melt the ends without looking dirty (white thread melts into brown) <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1WOKsT64yEA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WOKsT64yEA You can order thread here: TandyLeatherFactory.com sewing awl thread: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/produc... Amazon.com sewing awl thread: http://www.amazon.com/284yrd-Leather-...

For the HAND SEWING LEATHER WORKERS out there- <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1WOKsT64yEA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> This "How To" video was made for my buddy in Balian. This video includes how to begin stitching with the sewing awl, finish the seam, splice in longer thread, replace your bobbin, and replace the needle. So glad to share this with other handy people in the How To World. The sewing awl is an amazing tool. For the past 6 years, it has been a fruitful partner. This method is THREE TIMES FASTER than sewing with a single needle and thread. The sewing machine is great for leather, but sometimes it just can't handle seams that refuse to lay flat. As a general rule, if you can use a sewing machine- do. When you can't, the sewing awl is a versatile and efficient option. The best sewing awl I've found yet, is the one sold through "Tandy Leather Factory." If you don't have one of these Tandy shops in your city, it's easy to purchase through Amazon, Ebay, or Tandyleatherfactory.com. Expect to pay between 14-18$ for the tool. Buy "waxed poly sewing awl thread" to go with it. A big spool of waxed poly thread ranges from 6-20$ - Sold at the same online locations. Links provided below. Try to avoid buying a sewing awl with a hidden bobbin- like the "Speedy Stitcher"- this sewing awl is no good because you can't rewind the thread, and controlling the thread tension is much harder. While you're at it- order a replacement needle for when it does break. Because it will break. That needle is another 3$ well worth it. Your future self with thank you. Get a "size 8" needle. That is what you see here in the video. "Size 5" is smaller, but the sewing awl thread feels too big for it (sometimes when pulling the needle out, the needle will get stuck.) The instructions one the back of the sewing awl will leave you wanting. No, no, there is no instruction booklet that fell out. "Surely this can't be it" - you will think. Worry not, dear friend. Here is all you need to get your leather project underway. Important note: the rubber mat you see here allows the needle point to stay sharp, and reduce the risk of snapping your needle or stabbing your leg. I highly recommend getting a rubber mat. But if you are cheap, an old yoga mat folded in half will be fine. This tutorial comes from the leather design studio of Ahni Radvanyi. (Check out the shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/ahniradvanyi, and the most recent collection at http://ahnigear.com/) --Tandy Leather Factory.com Sewing Awl: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/sewing-awl-kit --Amazon.com tandy sewing awl: http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Stitch-Sewing/dp/B00A2C8M6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450413240&sr=8-1&keywords=sewing+awl+tool

There is so much helpful information here! Thank you for taking the time to post an encyclopedia of hand stitching knowledge. The best knowledge is that gained from your own experience. Trial and error! Hells yes, I have wailed and wallowed over the lack of available leather hand sewing instructions. Even the lack of instructions on the back of the package my sewing awl came in. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1WOKsT64yEA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> The lack of instructions on how to use this sewing tool was so frustrating- and now I am happy to share a video tutorial originally made for a buddy. I am a visual learner, and for those of you who need to see it than hear it, this video is for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WOKsT64yEA&feature=youtu.be This little hand sewing tool sews 3 times faster regular needle and thread. I have sewn through 12+ layers of leather with it, sewn through bison and stingray like butter, even sewn inside boots and bags, and sewn through chain. This hand tool has been my business partner, it's more than a tool. I have used it for 7 years now, and can sew 3 inches in 2 minutes. Not bad at all for small hand stitched bags. Goodluck with many successful leather projects!