Dave84

Bringing this thread back to life. Which of these models could someone recommend for making leather jackets? I use an .8mm and a different 1mm cowhide mostly and will start to use horsehides soon. I also will run some horween veg 5oz or less through it some times. Jackets will be the primary and my vintage Adler 167-373 has trouble getting over thicker seams.

Hi all, I am looking to see if it's smart to upgrade from my Adler 167-373 to either a Juki 1541s or 1508n. My main use for the Adler is leather jackets and some Horween bag work using 5oz or less leather. I do run into some difficulties with the Adler for leather jackets that I had posted about years ago and the solutions didnt really make a difference, especially on the transition of slimmer seams to extra bulky seams. My Juki 8700 lockstitch can handle so much that I am looking to see experiences with either Juki above would be a huge improvement over the vintage Adler. Thank you.

Thank you Wiz, I will be looking into the first two. The Juki has been recommended to me several times as well. On another note, would you happen to know or point me to a source to replace the needle bar on my Adler 167-373? I cannot find anything nor is the manual clear on what the order of operations are.

Thanks KGG. To see if I understand, the Adler 167 I have is an upholstery grade which I believe does have 1/2" of lift, but isn't strong enough to handle denser seams. The next step up into walking foot industrial machines is a significant jump to $3000-$10000. Does Juki make a medium duty leather sewing machine that can handle heavier garments? Aven, Thanks for the reply. I hand skive veg tan for bags and belts but will definitely research the videos. I'm currently using .08 chrome tan for the jackets and hand skiving I've not had success with.

Hi all, I'm updating this thread and would like your help. My Adler has been working just fine on denim, other heavy fabrics and light leather and will keep it for those projects. Now, after doing several jackets, some perfect, larger percentage still having an issue of wandering needle from deflection at thicker seams causing wavey lines at these joints, although tamed immensely over the years, I'm done with my system of avoiding as best as possible all above. One comment on another thread mentioned hitting the limit of this Adler 167-373. These seams can get to a 1/2" unskived on .08mm-1mm leather so what machine would be the next step up for jacket making, bags, wallets? I'd like to stay with a name brand for easy parts, service and Youtube tutorials. Thanks

Hi KGG, I'm updating this thread and would like your help. My Adler has been working just fine on denim, other heavy fabrics and light leather and will keep it for those projects. Now, after doing several jackets, some perfect, larger percentage still having this issue although tamed immensely over the years, I'm done with my system of avoiding as best as possible all above. One comment mentioned hitting the limit of this Adler 167-373, so what machine would be the next step up for jacket making, bags, wallets? I'd like to stay with a name brand for easy parts and service. Thanks!

Thanks Michiel. I did think MAYBE the bar is bent, but would you know how the frame could get messed up? I've had this Adler for several years and this issue just started happening. I have had a few times over the years where needles brake hitting the lower feed dog when I try to stitch too much leather freely, not glued or taped, have learned that lessen. But a couple weeks ago I had to rotate the bar to get the needle to line up with the hole, it got that bad. Where can you recommend to start replacing or tuning?

Anyone have any insight as to why I had to rotate the needle bar? I'm noticing thread snapping more often, no doubt due to the thread being dragged across sharper angles of metal.

Hi All, Having an odd issue I cant find much info about, besides the concentric location, of the needle bar on my Adler 167-373. I just had to rotate it 90 degrees so know the thread guide hole is facing away from me instead of to the left, the needle was hitting the side of the feed dog, snapping needles. It seemed to just happen out of nowhere, but now its a pain to thread. Thoughts? need a new needle bar? 2023-01-24_09-37-41 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr Next, I'm sampling some wallets machine stitched but I always have this issue, so I thought I'd ask. The bobbin side of the stitch always comes out super flat and the holes look more shredded. Using a diamond tip needle with poly thread. How can I make the bobbin side look as clean as the top? I do wonder though am I looking for perfection? I see some machine stitched items out there where both sides look clean. I've double checked that the loop is centered and it is, the bottom image shows the blow out/tear out. Refer to above pic as that's the current setup, a zipper foot with the feet smoothed out on a grinder, bottom feed dog never gets changed. Inside of wallets, faces up while stitching: 2023-01-24_09-37-33 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr Outer shell faces down, bobbin thread side: 2023-01-24_09-37-25 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr One last thing, looking at a Consew 277-R3 that looks good for $1500. Should I just buy it as I plan on getting a cylinder arm in the future? I'm impulsive lol

Dude got back to me and said it is older and best offer would be accepted. That's always risky

No it is a skiver. That's the motor tag? Gotcha, will update in when I speak to the guy tomorrow hopefully.

Hey Everyone, I found a guy selling a Lewsiton Shoe Machinery CO Leather skiving machine from 1977. Info on tag reads: Ch [6] HP [1/4] Date [1977] Ser. NO [660102] I can't find much info, but before I purchase at $855, can anyone give me insight into the company and machine? Is it worth it? I'm skiving down 5/6 Oz Horween for handstitched bags. -Dave

Yes, it is partial resting, continues to pull the lesser section causing some weirdness in the stitch line, but the thick part stays in place at the presser feet. Any solution on fixing that? Thanks, I'll start looking at it. Razor blades I have plenty of! Using garment leather seems to be extra tricky. Might just shift some of these extra folded parts around to balance out too much thicknesses.

I'll definitely try moving up on needle size. Your second paragraph is spot on! There isn't much room for the feet to move at all. I have a similar situation on denim, when there's a thicker part of folded over material then jumping to a thin, 2 layer section, make sense? Never could really find an answer as to why that is, plenty of foot travel. I've been looking into skiving a little, but dont know much about it. The amount I would need it doesnt justify a hefty pricetag though is my first thought. Any good hand tools out there you could recommend chrisash?

Thanks kgg for your input. I know the Adler can handle leather, been using it for a while, but these areas of more density than I usually stitch together is frustrating. I'll call Bob at Toledo and try some thicker needles but am concerned about the punctured hole size, even with a tex 105 thread. I may ultimately rethink my lining structure instead for now.