Tigdim

As promised earlier, here are the pictures of the stitching horse I built. I have a total of $6.55 into it. Just used stuff I had laying around other than the hinge, u-bolt, washers and extra nuts. Only things I have left are to cut the u-bolt bolts shorter/flush with the exterior nuts, and glue the leather strips I cut onto the jaws. Aaron

JLS, SO if I was looking to order a single side from a supplier... and they agreed to cut the side and split each piece separately... Bend - 7/8 oz for double layer belts, shoulder - 5/6oz for for holsters and belly - 2/3oz for holster lining. I could cover the all of the thicknesses I need with a single side. Or is belly a poor choice even for the lining? Aaron

Just to update this old topic. I do have a updated drawing, but neither of the machine shops I talked to were interested in making them. They both suggested contacting other machine shops that have "Screw machines" not CNC lathes. As production rate would be much faster/cheaper. (These are guys, I work with regularly to make tooling for work; when our machine shop gets behind, which it is most of the time.) Just so happens, where I work has 3 screw machines, but I am not a big fan of mixing my day job with hobbies/play. These are production machines that run constantly. I have a few friends with wood lathes... so it looks like I will be going with a wood burnisher, unless I can get access to a lathe a work, after hours. AL Burnisher with Steel shaft.PDF Aaron

Most people eat meat, the hides from the animals we consume should be used for something, not just tossed out to rot... The article states this... “Forgacs, who started the company about six years ago, said he was approached by several large brands and buyers of leather to create the knockoff because many of them were dissatisfied by the leather they were getting overseas.There’s a lot of waste. "We waste anywhere from 30% to 40% or more of the leather that we buy,” he said, adding that the majority of leather suppliers in the U.S. have simply vanished, forcing a lot of American companies to buy overseas." As far as I understand things... and please correct me if I am wrong. As I am applying what i know about manufacturing, to come to this conclusion. (I am an engineer that works in manufacturing at a company that has plants both in the US and China) I see this as a solution to a issue, created by the companies using leather in the first place! The US leather suppliers have vanished, because companies went overseas to have products manufactured (using leather local to the manufacturing facility-to save on shipping costs) /and or started buying leather overseas, because it was cheaper. Now that the overseas suppliers have/little to no competition (from the US / and or other quality manufactures- because they were put out of business by the overseas supplier) They no-longer provide the quality of goods once required to be competitive BECAUSE we can't meet demand with the facilities we have in the US (Or elsewhere) , even if we wanted too! We just have to deal with it or invest money into re-starting or building facility's to create competition, in an effort to drive the overseas quality back up. We have done this in just about every industry that can be outsourced... once the US based companies have been put out of business buy the outsourcing companies, they drop their quality to be on par with the price. In the the long run, you still get what you pay for! Aaron

Well, I am a little over 3/4 of way through making my stitching horse. I just need assemble the clamp/mount it on the horse. I took some liberties with the Stohlman design, but it should work. I have been rolling over in my mind what I can use instead of the drill press for punching holes. I thought of a few different ways that it could be done- building a simple lever arm (similar to a reloading press) would be the easiest. But then I got to thinking about the sewing machine idea... that is when this came to me. Build a simple U shaped frame (made from scrap steel I already have) laid on its side, a piece of plywood mounted on the bottom of the frame with a hole in the center for the awl blade to extend into, make a holder for the awl blade on a slide (directly above the hole), mount air cylinder to work the slide and a foot control valve. Line up the awl blade appropriately in the stitch groove, press foot petal, BAM... awl plunges through the leather- release pedal awl retracts. Re-align move to next stitch mark, press foot pedal -BAM. Sounds easy right? Then I can leave the drill press set up with a sanding spindle or the Burnisher (I don't have yet... ) I am going to shut up until I finish my stitching horse, and actually make something with leather. I have too many ideas running around in my head! Aaron

Dwight, I have no issues with your method, it is a great idea! I would be able to set it up so there is a stop, pressing the awl to the same depth every time, can easily follow your stitching groove and keep everything straight! You also get the mechanical advantage of the press, it so should be less physically demanding. Only problem I have, is that I do not have a drill press. Only thing I need for the stitching horse is a little bit of hardware... a hinge really. I think, I have everything else. So a few hour of work on my part and I will have something that will work for stitching... for now. A drill press is on the list of wants, but its behind putting a sub-panel the our detached garage. Currently, the entire garage; lights and outlets are on one 10 amp circuit, run to the garage on 14 gauge wire. This is so I can run power tools in the garage without the lights going out! I currently have to run an extension cord from in the house out to the garage. Aaron

Hoping to make my stitching pony this weekend, if all goes well. I will be doing some practice stitching early next week! Going to make a variant of the one in the back of "The Art of Hand sewing Leather" by Stohlman.

I will be using a hand awl, and stitching as laid out in Al Stohlmans books. Are those needles for machines? If so that is where my ignorance is coming from... I have only been searching for information on harness needles... seems like sizes 000 to 8 are the ones I have seen most. If I can find an old post by Katsass, that I read a while back, I think he tells everyone what he uses, for hand stitching.

Thanks guys, I will order some 346 nylon thread. Forgive my ignorance, but what needle was used for the Top row of stitching? That one looks better than the one below it too me... Looks like you have it marked #25 S (346) JLS, I must be a bit slow... I have seen you post that last tip at least once before (could be 2 or 3 times), I just now realized what you are saying!!! Spray adhesive the pattern to the card stock, cut out the middle, and use the outside for the pattern! Wow... I have no idea why it took me so long to get it, but that makes perfect sense. Hahaha... your "New Shield Holster" is one of the ones I bookmarked... My father has a Shield 9mm. I am thinking something similar will make a great gift for him! He has a clip on Galco "stow and go" that He uses when he is not in a suit at Church, but finds it very uncomfortable.

Todd, Funny you should mention that. I have not gone through everything, but I have been going over older stuff, doing searches on topics, and bookmarking pages with information/Ideas/photos that interest me or I think may become pertinent later. This site has a vast supply of information. I have also read 2 Stohlman books, read on many production and custom holster maker websites, some custom knife makers forums where they also make their own sheathes, and some on the holster sections of gun forums. There is lots of information outside of this site as well, but I have to say this forum is the best source of information I can find for leatherwork, with many people willing to help not just argue with one another. One of the problems I am finding, is that on just about any topic, you can find opposing views. Method 1 works for person A, but does not work for person B. Person B likes method 2. While person C has had success with both method 1 & method 2. While person D is looking for new method 3 as they do not like the results from Method 1 or 2! Good for research, but hard as a beginner, as I do not know what I do not know, so I don't know what will work for me... but most of the time I relinquish those debates too... it appears to work both ways just have to figure out which way works BEST for me. Its lots of fun... I like reading/learning/researching thing thoroughly before I jump in.

Thanks for the insight guys, JLS- I will double check the print off I used... I know I checked the scale on the first one I printed, but the second one I printed... I am not sure, and I will double checked. Cut up the first one transferring it to card stock. IN either case I will just make sure I make the slots 1.5" by .25" I can always open them up a little bit if needed. Dwight, thanks for reminding me of User- Katsass. I have a few threads with his work bookmarked... things that I liked and would like to "borrow" something from. I also have a few older threads with your work bookmarked... I would like to eventually make one of your Cactus style holsters for a close friend of mine. He got me over the hump of being scared to modify my own guns. Helped me re-build/improve my deer rifles accuracy: bed action, float barrel install a Timney trigger. Took it from 2.5" groups (5 shots) at 100 yards to 1" groups with factory ammo. With reloads I can Knock on the door of a 5/8" group (It shoots 3/4" groups very consistently.) Seams silly now, after all the work I have done to other guns, including building my own 1911... but sometimes you just needs a little guidance/push to get over that feeling of doom every time you think, "What if I mess it up?" I was looking at the patterns I have last night, and it appears I have a 50/50 pattern. I am also going to play with the card stock and see if I can figure something out that will be more like a 80/20. The search for a 80/20 holster pattern is what originally brought me to this site a few years ago! http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/64142-holster-patterns/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-445609 Now for my next questions, These all come from reading in "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" How many threads per inch/ What size over-stitch wheel do you suggest? and what size thread? Waxed nylon/poly? And as long as we are on the topic of thread... From reading in the 2, AL Stohlman books I have - it appears He was not a fan of pre-waxed thread... What do you guys use on your holsters for Threads per inch, thread size, and what kind of thread? I am not sure where on this site I found them, but I was thinking of ordering from "Maine Thread Company" as I like to order from American businesses. Anyone have any experience with them? Thanks again, Aaron

Almost 2 years ago I started thinking my wife and I would like to get try our hand at leather-work. We bought 2 shoulders (7-8oz and 3-4 oz veg tan from local tandy-2 hours away,) some tools, some thread and then we got distracted with life; Adding a second bathroom in our basement, Baby #2, Remodeling the baby room... the list of projects goes on and on! Now, I am in need of a new holster for my carry gun. My current setup has worked well enough for the last 5-6 years, but has warn some and the friction fit is no longer holding on to the gun as tightly as I like. I believe, part of the reason it has loosened up is that it is only 5-6 oz leather holding a relatively heavy gun for its size. Springfield EMP 3". Rather than purchase a new holster I am going to make one out of the 7/8oz shoulder I have... then another, and another .... until get one that is functional and I am happy with it. Then I will most likely make one out of some black drum dyed leather. I really like black holsters and belts-and as I am just starting out, I am thinking it may be easier to use drum dyed rather than having to mess with dyes right away. Are there any issues with using the "drum dyed skirting" vs the natural "tooling" leather? Using terms taken from W&C website as they will sell direct to customer in small quantities. I do have a pancake holster patter for my EMP. ( Thanks JLSleather !!!! ) IF I don't screw it up too bad I might just get a functional holster sooner than I think! First off, what size oblong punch do I use for a 1.5" belt- its a double layer gun belt about .25" thick? (belt actually measures at 1.42" tall) The JLSleather pattern has slots that measure 1.58" tall by .25". Is the 1.5" oblong punch what I need or do I need to step up to a 1 5/8" oblong punch to have a little extra room? I do want the belt to fit somewhat tightly in the slots but don't want it to be a battle it every morning and evening getting the holster on/off the belt. Or is this a non-issue because it will stretch / open up with use? (old holster fit looser than I would like as the slots are a full/strong 2" tall and 1/2" - 5/8" wide- could have stretched some over time as well. ) I am also getting confused- or should I say... I'm finding conflicting information on holster interior and liners, whether here or on Holster manufacture websites. The search function here is great.... just so much information for a beginner to take in!!! Some say flesh side is fine for the inside holster- other say use a liner; the flesh side of the leather holds dirt and debris and is hard on gun finishes. Some say suede is the best liner, while others say suede holds on to dirt and debris making it hard on gun finishes. And still others say veg tan grain side in makes the best interior for a holster whether flesh out or double layered veg tan, to have grain side in and out.... looking for some guidance on this. Is it all personal preference? This is really a question I need a long term answer too, as I am not planning on lining the first holster just going to have flesh side in, but when I get to the final Black version I may want a liner or go double layer with grain inside and out. Aaron

I wrote this a while ago and just realized that I must have erased part of the last paragraph, since it is not there. My wife and I are looking for someone in our area that can show us some Quality leather. Whether that means we drive to you and you show us some stuff you have on hand. Or meet up at Tandy or any other supplier in our area... and look at what they have on hand. We are able to travel up to 2 hours from Madison. (we have a 1 year old, getting a baby sitters for 6 hours or more can be a challenge) Is there someone in southern Wisconsin willing to educate some newbies? PM me if you are willing. Aaron

I would go with the 1911 over the Glock every time... but that is just me. Aaron

Looks great to me! Thanks for the education as well. I had not even thought about the angles that the stitching lines intersect at or leaving some areas without stitching to prevent weakening the end product. Me and the wife are going to be setting up our leather work bench in the basement tomorrow. Finally going to start working with leather next week... I will be posting things in the Critique my work section. Aaron

Hello all, My wife and I just recently decided to get into leather work, and I found this site through google. I am interested in making functional (I am not the artistic type) wallets, belts, holsters and saddle bags and my wife is interested in making wallets, clutches, purses, other bags and tooling leather. (she is very artistic, and loves looking at all the carving/tooling stamping pictures on this site. She has a art / graphic design background) 2 weeks ago we took a trip to the local Tandy (100 miles away) to grab some tools and some single shoulders to start to play with. (on sale at the time for $30) It was while we were in Tandy digging thorough the pile of shoulders I came to a realization.... each piece has a distinct feel. (I have read about the feel/smell/texture on this site, I just did not realize how obvious it would be I thought it would take a while to feel the difference) Some are firm, others squishy, some are stiff, some flexible, different textures.... and these were all the "same" 7-9oz veg tan shoulders. ( that does not even get into the visual differences... discolorations, stretch marks, shades, ripples... other strange visual things that are hard to describe) How does someone new to leather know what is a good piece of leather for a specific use? I would imaging it comes from experience working with the different leathers making different projects until you build up that knowledge. SO can they without guidance? I am looking for guidance... Is there someone in south central Wisconsin that would be willing to show me what quality leather feels like? I am a firm believer that quality materials make quality products, I want to know what quality leather feels like... can anyone help us out? Aaron

Thanks for the template... This is on my to do list. Aaron

Thanks for the input... latest drawing. I don't like the radii on the slots coming to sharp edges as JLS has it drawn... so I have .100" between each slot with a .050" radius. Planning to drill and tap the 1 1/4" round stock for 1/2-13 bolt, epoxy the bolt into the AL round (might use red loctite but I have not decided) . Then chuck the shaft into the lathe once the loctite dries, that will insure the burnishing surfaces are true to the shaft. AL Burnisher with Steel shaft.PDF

I will work on making changes/updating my design when I get a chance this weekend. What do you consider reasonable? To some people it may be $40 for others $150... without a number it is hard to tell if it is worth the effort to even look into mass production. (in this case I am only talking 20-50) I work with a local machine shop when our shop gets too busy. I could have them quote it in quantity of 10, 20, 50, and 100. But I would have to know that people are interested and willing to pay cost + shipping before I would waste their time. Aaron

I am new to leather work and was going to post up some questions about the powered burnishers being discuses in this thread. Figured, I would ask here rather than start a new thread. Background: I am a Mechanical Engineer and I have access to a machine shop. I plan to make one of the AL edge burnishers like in the Sam Andrews video for a drill press. Unfortunately, per company policy, I can't use the CNC equipment unless I get sent out for training. (which my boss does not plan to do any time soon... grumble grumble) My plan is to use the manual lathe to cut the slots getting close-ish to the radius... Then taking some wood lath of the desired thicknesses and radii (with radius edges cut on router table) and sandpaper to finish off the radius while still in the Lathe. Questions: What width slots do you think are appropriate? What radii should I use at the bottom of the slots? Aaron Edited to add PDF AL Burnisher for Drill press.PDF

I am interested in a 80/20... in fact that is the one of the reasons I am here. I was google searching for patterns, specifically 80/20 patterns. ( although I was not sure the correct terminology until I got to the quoted post) Aaron

Dwight, I am going to see a friend of mine that just took his first Pastorate out in "upstate" New York. He is back in town showing a young couple around the college he attended. I think, He had a pretty good idea what he was getting into (since hegrew up as a missionary kid) but he admits it is still more than he expected at times. I was thinking of starting with a Holster for my full size 1911. Looking to make a OWB, high ride with a strong cant... 20-25 deg... I have been looking at how to make patterns, cut the leather, burnish the edges, treat/dye, stitch, but the big hangup for me with the different options out there is what methods to use and what tools to buy... I am an engineer.... I over think everything... Aaron

Dwight, Thanks for the warm welcome. I have friends with cabins in the Glidden area... spent some time up there fishing, hunting and snowmobiling. I says you found leatherworker.net through 1911.com, are you on 1911forum as well? I am pretty sure I have seen your "Cactus" before. Aaron

Hello, I am just getting interested in leather-work. I am here to do some research, learn and hopefully make some decent leather goods for myself, family, and friends. I am not looking to start a business. I would eventually like to make some holsters, wallets and motorcycle saddle bags. I look forward to gaining the knowledge to make this happen. Aaron