Peterk

I have used airbrush on Eco-Flo and Angelus dyes on my holsters. I only use daubers on accent pieces on my holsters because the over-spray is harder to control. Dauber uses a lot of finish to achieve an even look without streaks. Have not tried the dunking method, mostly because I'm not producing holster at a high enough number to warrant a dye purchase that big.

Finally a good picture of the hidden slot design! I had an idea how they were made (stitching, holes, etc.) but have been looking for some good pictures to confirm design ideas. Thanks much and ditto on how you got the stitch lines so close?

Hey that second pic in your original post looks like the one you made for me! :D Glad this is working out great for you Scott! I have tried using this tool on a drill, a bench grinder, and by hand, and the drill is working out the best because the grinder turns too fast, and hand power is too slow to do anything to the leather. My drill is operating at about 1250rpm which is still not fast enough so I am contemplating getting the Fantastic Leather Burnisher and adapting this tool to it... That will come later when funds are more available. Thanks again Scott! Great tool! Peter

not many chances to use holsters here in California, but my friend was still very happy with this. He will use it on trips to Vegas or Utah.

I use Angelus spirit (alcohol) dyes exclusively now and it penetrate into the leather so it does not rub off. I rub the inside of my holsters down with Gum, then coat with Resolene and no problems so far. When I used to use Eco-Flo water-based dyes it would rub off on both sides so I changed it.

Hello all, Here is a set I just finished for Kimber 1911 Full size that I will surprise my friend with for his birthday today... Sure saves a lot of money being able to MAKE presents yourself. It also makes the present more meaningful as well... Let me know what you think. Thanks, Peter

Thanks... Not afraid of reading quality material like I get here.

I roughen the flesh side and it glues very well to veg-tanned leather, but I did not roughen the skin side because that is the side that showed and the side I'm having trouble with. I will try to roughen the unexposed parts to see if that will help with the gluing issue. Thanks!

I will try another contact cement. I know Barge does not do it, and the contact cement from Tanners Bond doesn't seem to work on the embossed leather either (on the skin side), but yes I will certainly sew as well. Still need to figure out how to mark holes for sewing when the embossed leather is on the outside so they are even. When they are inlayed it is easier to mark stitch groove on the veg-tan leather.

DCKNIVES, If you don't mind, what weight leather do you typically use for front and back when you have inlays? The veg-tanned leather I have for holsters is way too heavy (I believe) for inlays so I am looking for suggestions. I have a piece of 2oz allegator pattern embossed leather that I am looking for uses so it doesn't just sit there. The problem I have with that piece is that it doesn't glue well to anything since I believe the embossed side is glazed.

Thanks Luke!

Thanks Luke! If you don't mind, the retention piece looks like it was part of the bottom, or back of the holster piece, like the belt loops correct? If yes, did you draw in that extra piece in your pattern? Just wondering since most retention straps I've seen are sewn in after the fact.

Hello all, Having only made one semi-successful knife sheath ever, I am looking for ideas on what I can make next. I just got a customer who has two knives he would like me to make sheaths for, one is a field survival knife, and another is a rather large (understatement!) bowie... I have seen some generic sheaths online but I'd like to see what some of you have made (post pictures and specs) so I can get some ideas on construction, and attachment (to belt). Oh and since some sort of retention will be needed for both knifes, I'd like some ideas on that as well. I've ran some thoughts on retention through my head already but nothing really working out. Thanks! Peter

Yes L'Bum you are totally correct! I got my directions mixed. It is upon reholstering of the weapon that the molding behind the trigger will affect. I will edit my previous post as not to confuse anyone. Nevermind... Couldn't seem to find the "Edit" button on my previous post...

The new Angelus dyes will compliment your holster skills and make your holsters show and feel better. I've currently only tried Jet Black, Cordovan, and Coffee and love all three. Let me know if you find any other interesting colors. By the way, what leather (weight and vendor), and boning tool are you using? Am still trying to figure out how people get those deep indentations in trigger guards like yours. Only common thing I've heard so far is the use of quality leather from the likes of W&C and Hermann Oak, which I have yet to try. Thanks!