celticleather
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Posts posted by celticleather
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Take a small spoonful of adhesive and allow it to dry out on a smooth surface. When dried, peel it off and work it with your fingers into a ball. Carefully rub or dab the glue you want to remove with the dried adhesive ball, and it will adhere to the surface of the ball. This works with most contact adhesives.
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Bakers are quite happy to sell butts in ½-pairs (just one butt), and mixing colours is no problem. I often buy 2 x ½-pairs of different colours (and sometimes different finishes) from them.
If you can speak to Andrew Parr, you will find him to be very helpful . . . a true gentleman!
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Their price list, attachedDon't think it has attached properly!
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Soak them in paraffin (kerosene) for a couple of days, then brush the printing area vigorously with a bristle or stiff nylon brush. If any ink remains, soak again and repeat the process.
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Do you know if the Le Prevo is the Original Strap cutter of the Craft tool version?
The photo and description doesn't identify the product other than use the words 'Strap Cutter'
I don't think they sell Craft tool stuff . . . drop them an email to check. enquiries@leprevo.co.uk
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Le Prevo also have them. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/strap-cutter.html
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Countrytrash - Have you considered the wooden strap cutter? (http://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/96-knife-blades-amp-scissors/979-the-original-strap-cutter-incl-2-blades/)
It's much cheaper than a traditional plough gauge, and would make a good 'transition tool' until a right-price plough gauge comes along. I've been using the wooden strap cutter since the 1970's, despite having four plough gauges in my collection!
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A brand-new Dixon's plough knife will cost you $427 at today's price (plus shipping from UK). Sometimes the antiques are cheaper!
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Walsall catalog here . . . http://www.slideshare.net/walsallhardware/2013-walsall-hardware-catalog
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Contact JT Bachelor of Islington. No online shop but they buy an awful lot of English-cast brass. Solid is an understatement! Very reasonable prices too.
I've attached Batchelor's buckle catalogue (below). They source them from the same foundry as Abbey and Le Prevo, and sell at a fraction of the price!
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J T Batchelor (http://jtbatchelor.co.uk/) in Islington have a vast range of cast brass buckles, all made by a foundry in Walsall, and at a much cheaper price than Le Prevo or Abbey. If you are close to London, a visit to their shop/warehouse would be an eye-opener!
I have attached their buckle catalogue, and also their tools catalogue, and although I know that a lot of their tools are sourced from J Dixon in Walsall, I cannot say that all of their tools are British-made. Speak to Ted or Rocky, who will soon put you on the right track!
I should add that the last two figures in the buckle numbers (eg 25, 30, 32 etc) are the strap widths in millimetres.
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Welcome to the Forum. There is, quite literally, a world of information and advice to be found here. Plunge in and enjoy!
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How do you hold these things while working ? I take it this is like a long stick with curved clam shape jaws ?
Traditionally, saddler's clams are used in a sitting position. For a right-handed person, the clam would be rested on the left thigh, with the right leg over the lower end of the clam (see picture 1). Some folk like to add the strap and stirrup (see picture 2), which allows a greater pressure to be applied to the jaws of the clam by pressing down with the left foot.
I prefer to work standing up, so I fasten the clam to my bench with a quick-release strap. As mentioned above, it is important to line the jaws of the clamp with soft leather, to avoid marking the piece that is being sewn.
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Have another look on the Abbey site . . . http://www.abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/productid/74749/Language/en-GB/Default.aspx?txtSearch=saddlers+clams
These are priced at £63.00 (plus VAT & postage).
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I would guess the ideal leather for what you need would be from J T Batchelor in Islington, London. It's called Natural Oily Tan Shoulder, 2-2.5mm. I use it all the time . . . it's first-class, and at £3.80 per square foot (last time I ordered) usually a good deal cheaper than the Le Prevo 026.
They have a website at http://jtbatchelor.co.uk/ but it's not very informative. Best to call them on 020 7254 2962 and speak to Ted or Rocky . . . both very helpful.
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We have a method in the shoe trade now called 'hydraulics'!
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The best oak tanned harness leather in my mind comes from Bakers in Colyton Devon uk
The very best, without question!
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Try contacting Fast Feet Shoe Repair, 4737 Concord Pike, Wilmington, DE 19803. (302) 478-9271. They uploaded the Youtube video, and may be able to give you the manufacturer's details, or a copy of their manual (if they have one).
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It's for applying coloured wax to the edges of shoe soles. See
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That was a pretty cool little slideshow. But, at times I thought it looked a lot like cleaning a septic tank. I'll stick to working it back into something beautiful and let them do the dirty work.
The early part of the process smells pretty much like cleaning a septic tank, but after the 12-month tanning process, the smell of the leather is wonderful . . . quite unique!
Interestingly, Tanner Bates (see link in post above) buys his leather from the same tannery. I just found another little video of the tannery in Devon http://s1132.photobucket.com/albums/m564/celticleather/?action=view¤t=Tannery.mp4
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Take a look at this little photo-essay: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-14442109
It's the tannery where I buy my leather, and it may be enough to put you off trying it at home!
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You may find what you're looking for here: https://www.college-...ngMachineParts. Try dropping them an email with the model and serial number of the machine, and they'll let you know if they have the parts you need. Many 29K parts are interchangeable.
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Best investment - Vintage tools by Dixon, Osborne or Barnsley.
Worst investment - Practically anything from Tandy!
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I think you were on the right track in your first post! I've fitted these using a well-fitting rivet cap . . . just tight enough to need a push to fit on the stud. Place the belt-end face down on a piece of wood, and give the rivet head a sharp tap with a metal hammer. The stud will spread inside the rivet head, just enough to hold it in place. Believe me . . . it works!
Horse Harness Winker Molds I Would Like To Find
in Old/Sold
Posted
Abbey Saddlery in the UK have winker plates that can be used as a base for molding the leather. They are available in a range of shapes and sizes. http://www.abbeyengl...GB/Default.aspx