Hi Everyone,
Warning: Complete Newb.
For the past 6 years or so I've had a desire to learn leatherwork. I love well-made leather products and since I've got fair hand eye coordination I finally want to give a go. I've been trying my best to read as much as possible about the various thread types, leather types, sewing machines, etc. I had contacted a guy on Etsy a few days ago who does great work and he imparted some advice which was "First, know what kind of projects you want to take on" and "Start with hand sewing to see if you like it." Seems logical. So having given this some thought, I'd like to start perhaps with a bag, like a possibles bag, and maybe belts, and then more elaborate bags with linings, pockets, sections, etc. I want to use premium materials in my items. I'm from Chicago originally (home of Horween) but I live in the UK these days (London). I could really use some good advice because I'm finding myself overloaded with info researching this on my own.
1. What is the best leather (and/or canvas) to use for a mens bag, like a possibles bag and/or satchel? I've received some samples from a Scottish mill of some wax canvas up to 24oz which seems to be a reasonable material.
2. Can someone explain, or post a link to a good source, on thread thicknesses, how they're categorized and their applications? i.e. what is a good thread "gauge" and type to use in a bag application. I've read Polyester is the best weatherproof thread out there.
3. What kind of lining would be good for a bag, if any? Would a tartan wool work well? Are linings typically glued in (if so, what type of glue)? or stitched in?
4. If I'm doing this by hand, what is the best needle to use? Are there specific leather or canvas type needles out there? and do they match up with the thread thickness somehow?
5. Let's say I go a sewing machine route. What are some good sewing machine types / brands that I should consider? I've done a bit of research on this and whilst some people suggest a vintage Singer 201K, others seem to use much more industrial and robust machines like a Techsew. I've seen some amazing videos by Arthur Porter. And Wizcraft's posts stand out on this forum. Amazing.
6. Any really good classes, books, or online bag making tutorials out there that are recommended?
I know this is a load of questions and anyone answering doesn't need to address them all. I suppose I'm looking for a general "approach" to this whole thing and to understand if there are any "rules" involved. Thanks so much, and apologies for the long post. Any and all advice you can throw my way is appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Geo