oldfarmboy

There is a dealer 150 miles from here. Been in contact but didn't yet ask about price or shipment. I've purchased a few parts before. One time he got snarky when I wanted a part but Friday he was OK again. LOL I try to avoid him.

I don't HAVE to get this machine running immediately but would be nice to test run. It's not a complicated cap or all that difficult. I've made several parts for my 29K2 which was in terrible shape. Here's a one of the shuttle hooks that was really worn. Made a gear for the bottom. Rebuilt the long rack and modified it as well too for timing the shuttle. Rebuilt the revolving head. Sewing isn't my primary passion. I'd soon starve. (nor is machinist. Ask my former co-worker who was a journeyman machinist). It's the challenge and satisfaction when it works out. We'll see.

That’s a better picture of the cap. Shows the gap on the side. I intend to machine one soon as a can. The cap looks fairly simple. What I’ll need to do is experiment with the size of the tab and opening. The other measurements are easier.

Thank you. $43.75. Plus shipping. That's US$ too. Ouch. Looking at $75 approx in our funds. My good deal on this machine is evaporating quickly.

Anyone have this machine that could post a picture with the slide cover removed and the bobbin case in position? Also some closeups of the bobbin case itself? If caliper available as well some measurements? Crazy thought here. I'm going to attempt machining a cover. I have lots of tension springs from Singer bobbins that I can use. It will be from ordinary steel not tool steel to begin with.

Link doesn’t seem to work. :( I have the slide cover. Need the bobbin cover

Hmmm can't send PM???

Thanks Shoepatcher. After studying the machine for couple hours and comparing to my Pfaff walking foot I came to the same conclusion it's missing the cover. In fact the cover from the Pfaff almost fits except the hole is too small for the post. :( I'll check locally but hopes are not great. Watch for PM.

The parts manual that came with the machine lists a bobbin case number 12124. If it is indeed needed, and by looking closely, it appears to be AOL, where is a good source for another? I've tried trading and the thread always get caught in the hook so I'm almost certain there should be a bobbin case.

Hello everyone. Haven't been here for quite a spell. Yesterday I purchased a Consew model 229 post sewing machine. Today I hope to test and looking in the manual it mentions a bobbin case. I don't see one. I called the dealer (150 miles away ). Chatting with the service man It seems some use bobbin cases and others don't. Is this correct? Attached is a picture of the bobbin area. Could someone help me out on threading this machine? TIA

Yes I do. Sorry haven't been online for a few days. Can one private message on this forum?

Also have Design Artistry by Baird. I made an error here. The Artistry is in original packaging. The Secrets is NOT. But both are in excellent new condition. I don't remember ever using them.

I don't know. What's a reasonable price? I've been out of the leather hobby for 30 years or more. Earlier in the thread I see $75 US. Shipping from Saskatchewan so it shouldn't break the bank.

I do have a copy in mint condition. Also Leather Secrets in original packaging and shipping carton.

I should have a copy. I'll check tonight

Servo you mention would probably work just fine with a smaller lathe. I have a 2 HP on my South Bend. For it I built a mechanical variable drive system using two large V belts from snow machines. Your solution of an outer bearing is a good one. There is another solution to the side torque on the drill which I considered but discarded because it involved more time and work. That was to build an arbor similar to the counter shaft setup on the Pfaff. This uses two large bearings (6204) side by side pressed into a hub which is welded to a plate. That plate is bolted to the table legs. The large pulley is driven by the clutch motor and the small pulley drives the machine. Same setup as other users have done with servos. A person could have a stub shaft could extend and attach the drill using the chuck. The drill could easily be removed for regular use if connected using the chuck. All the side draft is transferred to the counter shaft. For heavy or extended use though the drill may not be suitable. I expect it might overheat.

The bearings in this drill are pretty solid. I don't expect that to be an issue very soon. A cheaper unit with brass bushings would be different. I have a treadmill motor and I did try that system but what I didn't like was that it lacked braking. Also the speed control is more difficult because this particular motor uses permanent magnets for fields and needs DC voltage. If it had wound fields then it would probably run well on either DC or AC. To regulate speed I had to build a bridge rectifier circuit which was fed from a AC controller similar to what is found in more modern foot controls on new sewing machines. Older foot controls used a resister circuit. Similar electronic variable AC controllers today are found on light dimmers. Another issue with brush type motors is limiting RPM. Unloaded they can rev up to thousands of RPM and will destroy the sewing machine. That's exactly what happened to a Reliable blind hemmer I acquired free some months ago. I wasn't too heart broken though. Pretty much a useless machine other than the table. But again what I didn't like was the lack of braking. I have the same braking issue on the Pfaff with the pulley speed reduction I built. It coasts for several stitches are cutting power. It does have power galore though and will last for eternity. It will get changed to a drill system soon enough. Just found a Craftsman 19.2 volt drill. Problem here is battery. Needs a six volt and a 12 volt and that brings up recharging issues.

Well, been some time since the last post. Experimented with speed reduction on a Pfaff 145 and a Singer 307G2. On the Pfaff I built a counter shaft V pulley system as has been done by other posters here, but using the original clutch motor rather than buying a servo. I get a top speed of about 250 rpm on the machine. It doesn't remove slipping the clutch problem but at least speed is manageable and it provides plenty of power to drive through the thickest leather. Was able to easily go through two layers of 3/16 inch leather with ease. I took an entirely different approach for the Singer. I used an older Mikita 1/2 inch 2 speed rechargeable drill. Many of the older drills use batteries that are nearly as expensive to replace as purchasing a new one so this one was just sitting unused for a couple years. Removed the chuck and mounted a 3 inch pulley. The chuck is standard 1/2 fine thread so the pulley had to be modified with matching bore. Next I built a frame to mount the drill in proper position under the table using the old mounting bracket bolted to the table and spring to tension the belt. Below the plate for the driill is a lever which connects to the foot pedal and operates the trigger on the drill. I get a top speed of about 1200 rpm on the machine using the high speed setting and an infinite range from zero. Another nice feature: these drill have braking so the needle stops instantly. Change the drill to low speed and torque is increased but I had no trouble sewing through one layer of about 3/16 leather on high speed. Anything heavier and the drive on the sewing machine pulley slips. That may be due to the needle I was using. Overall I'm really pleased with the results. This system may not be for everyone as you'll need access to some machining for the pulley and a welder for the bracket to build it. Here are some pictures. One other point I forgot to mention. I powered this drill assembly from a 12 volt car battery as the original batteries are not much good for anything. A simple trickle charger would keep the battery charged. Very economical too with no motor running.

How can I see this video of the setup u are referring to? I have plans to build my own speed reducer using the gear box from an old electric lawn mower. The GE Craftsman model has about 6:1 reduction. I've used those for driving meat grinders. This one on hand is not GE but very similar. I had plans to position under the table. I will have to drop the motor down lower and possibly slightly further back. Not ideal but not very many options. I also have a DC motor from a treadmill which I hope to use with an electronic controller that is presently on order. It will go on the other machine. Will see how these projects turn out.

I stopped by a local store that has a Reliable 3200SN on display. Didn't talk to sales as everyone was too busy but it was powered up with a piece of material on the bed so I tested it. Only checked at slow speed and it gave nice control. There must be some sort of control inside the end of the servo. Do all servos have that already built in or is this a specially built unit? BTW, I just acquired a Singer 307G2 and it's control is far superior to the Pfaff. Not near as frightening to run. Even had the clutch assembly off the Pfaff to inspect. It did have some sort of old grease on the disc. Cleaned it all off as best as I could using acetone and sandpapered the metal disc. Hard to tell if there was any improvement. Looking like a speed reduction system is an upcoming project

Probably asked a thousand times already. How do these servo setups work to drive the machine? Do they still use a clutch like the old mechanical system? Do you set the speed and then engage the drive with a clutch? Or do they work like regular domestic sewing machines that have a foot control to vary speed from very slow to fast? I've just latched on to a Pfaff 145 and it's a beast to control. Also found a Reliable blind hemmer months ago and it used the same clutch system. From zero to full bore. Saved the table. Rest of it is in the junk pile for recycle. Can't live very long with this setup. Beyond me how all that engineering could go into these machines and they come up with a drive like this??? Thanks