gavingear

This machine is now sold, thanks all! -Gavin

Some additional information: Can sew items up to about 1/2" thick Shipping origin- 98011 Weight- total: 120lb + packing materials Detailed weight: Head: 70lb, Case and accessories, 50lb

Bothell (Seattle area) Washington. Sorry- thought that was in my signature.

Here's a very rare machine! This is a full-industrial portable machine ideally suited for leather work. What makes this machine rare is the custom portable case that makes this machine portable, as well as the Dayton 52:1 gearmotor. This gearmotor slows the machine down and multiplies the torque this motor produces (52x!! torque). Furthermore- this motor features a one-way sprague clutch meaning that moving the handwheel is effortless (not the case with belt-driven reducers). This machine has been gone over, lubed, tuned, new belt, and has almost no signs of use. Works perfectly and makes a perfect stitch. An ideal machine that does not take up much space. Asking $900. + shipping/packing fee (negotiable, but non-trivial for this heavy machine). If you are picking up locally, I have a workstand that I can throw in, and I'll show you how to setup and use the machine. Features: - Integrated thread stand and guide - Walking foot, needle feed - Variable stitch length - Reverse - Power switch and foot pedal Included: - Machine and case - Instruction manual (shows age) and service/parts manual (good condition) - Extra brand new belt - Zipper/welting foot set, and standard foot set Pictures: Please see my ebay account, 100% positive feedback for reference: http://myworld.ebay.com/gavingear I thought I would list here before putting this on ebay.

I'll second the suggestion for the servo motor. I just upgraded my Pfaff 545 (similar machine) with a servo motor, see the following post to see a video of this machine in action: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7174 I would also install a speed reducer if you want to go really slow. Servo motors are great for starting out gently and limiting top speed, but if you run the motor really slow, you'll find it does not have enough torque to plow through really heavy leather. I have a 3:1 speed reducer on my Pfaff 545, and that multiplies the sewing torque by 3x. That means I can run the machine really slow, and still have enough torque to sew through 4 or 5 layers of 6-7oz veg tan leather. Check out the video from the post above and see what you think. The Consew motor is great. I'm thinking about relocating the max speed knob to the front of the machine next to the on/off switch. Then you can tailor your top speed to match the type of project you're doign (very slow for holsters, faster for leather upholstery or bobbin winding)

I just used 6-7oz for and IWB constructed of 6-7oz, that worked well for me.

Hello all, I just completed a Consew servo motor install on my Pfaff 545 walking foot industrial sewing machine, so I thought I'd take a few minutes to explain how this machine works including a description of the speed reducer, and the servo motor. Pfaff 545 sewing machine overview: - Made in Germany (top quality) - Walking foot with needle feed (feet are clamped on material and needle pierced when feed takes place) - High lift feet (about 9/16") - Large capacity top loader bobbin - Reverse and stitch length adjustment - All metal lower shaft/gear drive (newer pfaff 1245 has rubber belt that can require replacement) A couple key additions on this machine: - Speed reducer (about 3:1) - 3x the effective motor torque, and 1/3 the top speed - Electronic servo motor (Consew CSM 550) - Spins only when you are sewing, silent otherwise, brake, adjustable top speed, precise speed control and start/stop Some photos: Overall machine: Walking feet: Speed reducer: Servo motor: Overview and operation video:

Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post)

For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops...

I've wondered the same thing about red wine...

Actually, I just did that in photoshop. I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful (I'll be back home some time this weekend).

To answer a couple of questions: 1. Weight of leather: I used 6-7oz, seems like a good thickness 2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself 3. This style of IWB seems to work well. With widely spaced loops it's stable for a reliable draw, and the flap that covers the back of the slide is an added level of comfort Thanks for the compliments! While not a totally unique design (some have commented on similar products) I'm happy with the result.

A couple days back I posted a thread asking for a critique of a design I've been working on for an "Inside the waistband" holster for my Kel-Tec PF-9: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957 Well, I've modified the design based on the feedback, and have completed my 1st IWB holster, here are some pics: Front: Back: Back: Stitching closeup: Packing, side view: Packing, rear view: Updated pattern: And here are all of the photos, you can get the full size pattern here: http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/ So far, it seems to pack real nice, and I can reach around the grip for a smooth draw. Thanks everyone!

OK, I modified the design for better draw, and keeping some comfort Here's the updated design, I'm the process of building a holster from this design: More updates when the holster is done...

Thanks all for the suggestions! The primary reason for full grip coverage is to have a layer of leather between the grip and my skin for comfort purposes. I did think about the implications on draw/grip. I'll have to decide whether I want more comfort, or better accessibility and speedy draw action...